Hello,

I have been doing some research on the materials and manufacturing used for wheel hubs.

While I have been able to find approximate temperatures for wheels, rotors, and pads, I can't seem to locate the hub temperatures.

Would anyone have the approximate temperature (using Iron, Mild Steel, etc...) during a road racing event like Sebring or Homestead?

Thanks!

 

Hrmmm....weird question I think. I've never took those temps off my old B13 racecar, but I never had a problem with my set-up either and I've run Sebring, but not Homestead. I just ran new front OEM Nissan bearings every 3-ish events. Some say getting rid of that factory grease and repacking it with some good stuff like Redline, etc. helps a lot, but I think the best set-up is factory bearings, which are of course steel, bolted to aluminum wheels which will soak up some heat from the hubs and disipate it to the atmosphere. This is a super common set-up, of course. If all else fails, that's what ducting is for!

 

That's good to know.

There have been some low cost S13 5 lug hubs that have come to market recently (Ichiba, S5, etc..) and they use Mild Steel.

My main concern is that the hubs can handle the stress on a typical road course. A sales rep told me that the Ichiba can handle hub temps of 202F and typical hub track temps are around 170F.

Common sense tells me that these temps seem a little low, but I wanted to pose the question to check the validity.

Thanks.

 

I run track events at Sebring with the 240. There are a lot of variables, such as brake pad material, disk size and ducted air.
I've put a temp gun on my rotors, not the hubs, and the temp was in the high 300's. This was after driving down the back stretch and through the paddock area, so my guess is the temps were much higher, probably 600-700 degrees. I would say the hubs see at least 300 degrees when I am on the track.

 

Thank you.

You are talking about a huge difference from 202F.

Would you know if the OEM hubs are steel or iron?

 

Hrmm...I've boiled RBF600 fluid at Sebring before ducting which would mean the pads/rotors would have been well over the 600-degree boiling point, but still no hub problems. Like I said, throw some good grease in the hubs cause that's what lubricates and it's not like the metal is going to melt anytime soon (though I did melt the edge of one front caliper piston down when the Carbotech pad material ran out in one race weekend 2 laps from the end of the race, grrrr, haha).