Captive brake caliper and wheel spacers
Has anyone modified their bikes to have captive parts. I get tired of installing wheels and having spacers fall out and the brake caliper flopping around. I am researching this now and will be atleast modifing my rear brake to make it captive. Any ideas?
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if im understanding you correctly you want the caliper mount to become one with the swingarm. you can weld it to the swingarm but then uh oh, no adjustment of the rear wheel. come on man its not that bad dropin the rear wheel off then back on.
ROFL you guys crack me up. Captive means is held on but still works propertly.
Tyler, when trying to install the rear wheel and line it up in the swing arm and also get the brake caliper to line up things can get to be a pain if you do your stuff by yourself.
Jameson, I dont plan to weld it to the swing arm, i still want adjusablity, but I dont want the bitch falling off when im trying to slide the wheel up and slide the disk between the pads. Its not a fucking choper.
Captive means that the its held in with greater force but still works as originaly designed. I was thinking of almost slotting the Brake caliper mount and putting in a retainer to hold it so its still adjustable but cant fall out sidways. Almost like a dove tail if your into wood working at all.
As for the wheel spacers they will have just a tiny lip from what I understand so they almost snap into the seals instead of just pressing in and lightly hanging on.
Tyler, when trying to install the rear wheel and line it up in the swing arm and also get the brake caliper to line up things can get to be a pain if you do your stuff by yourself.
Jameson, I dont plan to weld it to the swing arm, i still want adjusablity, but I dont want the bitch falling off when im trying to slide the wheel up and slide the disk between the pads. Its not a fucking choper.
Captive means that the its held in with greater force but still works as originaly designed. I was thinking of almost slotting the Brake caliper mount and putting in a retainer to hold it so its still adjustable but cant fall out sidways. Almost like a dove tail if your into wood working at all.
As for the wheel spacers they will have just a tiny lip from what I understand so they almost snap into the seals instead of just pressing in and lightly hanging on.
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I just took the rear wheel off the XR and this thing has a 160 tire on it. It just barely fits between the forks in the swingarm as it is. Trying to get that sonofabitch on/off was a chore and a half. Wedging it in all cockeyed and shit trying to dodge the chain slider and caliper mount, beating things to make shit line up.
Yeah, spacers just sit inside the seals just enough not to fall out when the wheel is just sitting on the ground, but as soon as you try to lift it and wedge it in shit falls out everywhere! haha,
Ok now we are on the same page. From what I understand there are a few options. From the factory its so bad its like sperm falling out of a whale.
Anyways there is two options I see fit. You can pull the bearings out and get a few mm larger inner size and then have a spacer that goes through the complete wheel with just a lip on the inside to support the inner race of the bearings, on the outside you would need another spacer that slides over the inner spacer and presses up againts the bearing. This may work but there is some cost and machining into this idea plus new bearings. My Idea is, there is an air gap between the seal and the bearing. Take your spacers in to a machine shop and have them remake the spacer with a 1mm wide by 2mm tall lip on the inner portion. This shoudl be just enough to pop them carefully into the seal with out causeing damage. They will still pop out but not nearly as easy. You could go with a larger lip but then you chance pulling the seal out if you wack the spacer on the swing arm.
I am leaning more towards a small lip and then making the brake caliper mount captive. More research is needed thus far.
Anyways there is two options I see fit. You can pull the bearings out and get a few mm larger inner size and then have a spacer that goes through the complete wheel with just a lip on the inside to support the inner race of the bearings, on the outside you would need another spacer that slides over the inner spacer and presses up againts the bearing. This may work but there is some cost and machining into this idea plus new bearings. My Idea is, there is an air gap between the seal and the bearing. Take your spacers in to a machine shop and have them remake the spacer with a 1mm wide by 2mm tall lip on the inner portion. This shoudl be just enough to pop them carefully into the seal with out causeing damage. They will still pop out but not nearly as easy. You could go with a larger lip but then you chance pulling the seal out if you wack the spacer on the swing arm.
I am leaning more towards a small lip and then making the brake caliper mount captive. More research is needed thus far.
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Ok now we are on the same page. From what I understand there are a few options. From the factory its so bad its like sperm falling out of a whale.
Anyways there is two options I see fit. You can pull the bearings out and get a few mm larger inner size and then have a spacer that goes through the complete wheel with just a lip on the inside to support the inner race of the bearings, on the outside you would need another spacer that slides over the inner spacer and presses up againts the bearing. This may work but there is some cost and machining into this idea plus new bearings. My Idea is, there is an air gap between the seal and the bearing. Take your spacers in to a machine shop and have them remake the spacer with a 1mm wide by 2mm tall lip on the inner portion. This shoudl be just enough to pop them carefully into the seal with out causeing damage. They will still pop out but not nearly as easy. You could go with a larger lip but then you chance pulling the seal out if you wack the spacer on the swing arm.
I am leaning more towards a small lip and then making the brake caliper mount captive. More research is needed thus far.
Anyways there is two options I see fit. You can pull the bearings out and get a few mm larger inner size and then have a spacer that goes through the complete wheel with just a lip on the inside to support the inner race of the bearings, on the outside you would need another spacer that slides over the inner spacer and presses up againts the bearing. This may work but there is some cost and machining into this idea plus new bearings. My Idea is, there is an air gap between the seal and the bearing. Take your spacers in to a machine shop and have them remake the spacer with a 1mm wide by 2mm tall lip on the inner portion. This shoudl be just enough to pop them carefully into the seal with out causeing damage. They will still pop out but not nearly as easy. You could go with a larger lip but then you chance pulling the seal out if you wack the spacer on the swing arm.
I am leaning more towards a small lip and then making the brake caliper mount captive. More research is needed thus far.
For the average ride with a garage queen sure, or if someone else works on your shit. I have 2 bikes with combined over 40k miles in the last 2 years. Tire changes every 3-7k depending on bike and tire compound= a fuck load of well saying fuck, also makes beer consumtion rise.
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dunno how to go about the spacer thing. I think the latter of your ideas, getting a maching shop to make it a hair bigger would be the best bet. As for the brake caliper, how is it mounted? the one on the xr has a bracket on it and a slot welded on the inside of the swingarm. They slide into each other tongue & groove style so it kinda holds itself up and is pretty difficult to bump out.
The "easy" way i found to do mine was just get the tire wedged in and centered with the axle holes. take a c clamp and push the brake piston back in to give you lots of room to get the disc wedged in. Put the spacers on the wheel and lift the wheel straight up to align it with the axle holes in the swingarm. You could prob use a small floor jack to lift it for you so you can concentrate on guiding the wheel up rather than trying to lift 40lbs straight up without knocking shit. naaaawwwww meeeeeeeeaaaan?
PS: NO ONE ELSE TOUCHES MY SHIT
I'll do everything to my bike (except change the tires, but i bring them the wheel), including rebuilding it. If you have the tools and shop manual you can do ANYTHING.
The "easy" way i found to do mine was just get the tire wedged in and centered with the axle holes. take a c clamp and push the brake piston back in to give you lots of room to get the disc wedged in. Put the spacers on the wheel and lift the wheel straight up to align it with the axle holes in the swingarm. You could prob use a small floor jack to lift it for you so you can concentrate on guiding the wheel up rather than trying to lift 40lbs straight up without knocking shit. naaaawwwww meeeeeeeeaaaan?

PS: NO ONE ELSE TOUCHES MY SHIT
I'll do everything to my bike (except change the tires, but i bring them the wheel), including rebuilding it. If you have the tools and shop manual you can do ANYTHING.
Last edited by TNathe; May 10, 2007 at 12:25 PM.



