Audio Gurus needed - designing the "perfect" set up
I'm doing my research into what sounds better where, but starting with next to no audio knowledge at all, I have a long way to go to understanding.
So I'm looking for some positioning suggestions.
If you could mount speakers anywhere for the best sound, where would those speakers be? What would you mount where, in generic, non car specific terms? If you wanna explain the why behind those suggestions, that would be amazing.
Getting more specific, I'm working with a 1991 Nissan 300zx.
We're looking to build some custom mounts to get the best sound possible as the stock speaker set up leaves something to be desired.
I've been in some cars that had an amazing sound while still getting pretty loud. Not db drag loud, but still rather loud.
It would be really awesome if a great sound could be maintained with the t-tops off as well, but I've learned enough so far to realize that taking the tops off is going to sacrifice sound qualify. But if there is a way to set it up for the best of both worlds, I'm all for it.
Getting even more specific,
I have no doubt there is better products out there, but for now, it would be great to stick with the components I have already. I'm spending a pretty good chuck on dynamat and mass loaded vinyl already.
Here is the list of components we are working with:
Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130P510...ures_and_specs
2- 1" Audiobahn Tweeters
4- 5.25" Audiobahn AS50Q speakers - Audiobahn AS50Q - 5-1/4" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
2 - 6x9 Audiobahn AS69Q - Audiobahn AS69Q - 6" x 9" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
2 - 600watt 4 channel Amps - Audiobahn A6004T - 4 Channel Amplifier | Four Channel Amp - Sonic Electronix
1 - 800 watt 1 channel Amp - Audiobahn A8000T - Monoblock Car Amplifier, Power Amp - Sonic Electronix
I'll have to get the models for the Subs... They are in a box and I don't remember what they are...
Anything else that needs added to that list?
I was thinking cross overs but I wasn't sure if it was really needed or not.
Thanks for the help!
So I'm looking for some positioning suggestions.
If you could mount speakers anywhere for the best sound, where would those speakers be? What would you mount where, in generic, non car specific terms? If you wanna explain the why behind those suggestions, that would be amazing.
Getting more specific, I'm working with a 1991 Nissan 300zx.
We're looking to build some custom mounts to get the best sound possible as the stock speaker set up leaves something to be desired.
I've been in some cars that had an amazing sound while still getting pretty loud. Not db drag loud, but still rather loud.
It would be really awesome if a great sound could be maintained with the t-tops off as well, but I've learned enough so far to realize that taking the tops off is going to sacrifice sound qualify. But if there is a way to set it up for the best of both worlds, I'm all for it.
Getting even more specific,
I have no doubt there is better products out there, but for now, it would be great to stick with the components I have already. I'm spending a pretty good chuck on dynamat and mass loaded vinyl already.
Here is the list of components we are working with:
Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130P510...ures_and_specs
2- 1" Audiobahn Tweeters
4- 5.25" Audiobahn AS50Q speakers - Audiobahn AS50Q - 5-1/4" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
2 - 6x9 Audiobahn AS69Q - Audiobahn AS69Q - 6" x 9" Speakers - Sonic Electronix
2 - 600watt 4 channel Amps - Audiobahn A6004T - 4 Channel Amplifier | Four Channel Amp - Sonic Electronix
1 - 800 watt 1 channel Amp - Audiobahn A8000T - Monoblock Car Amplifier, Power Amp - Sonic Electronix
I'll have to get the models for the Subs... They are in a box and I don't remember what they are...
Anything else that needs added to that list?
I was thinking cross overs but I wasn't sure if it was really needed or not.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by Empire; Oct 10, 2010 at 01:22 AM.
What is your budget like? Not a big fan at all of Audiobahn stuff, especially when it comes to SQ.
__________________
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
Don't really have a set budget... but we're pulling off of the interior out, dynamat, foam and mass loaded vinyl etc, then onto custom speaker mounts, so its gonna be a while to get it all together anyway. Gives a bit of time to save up... not lookin to drop a grand on speakers, but i'd like to get good stuff.
If that makes it any more clear... lol
If that makes it any more clear... lol
Check out DIYMA.com - Car Audio Forum & 12 volt Community Board , do a lot of research on there.
__________________
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
To keep it simple and not car-specific, kick panels are generally regarded as the best speaker location because of the decreased path length difference, meaning that the distance between the left speaker and your ear will be similar to the distance between the right speaker and your ear. It is also (generally) regarded as best to keep your tweeter close to the midrange so that your sound stage doesn't have too much separation. Believe it or not you can get a great sound stage out of coaxials with the proper install.
Specific to your setup: Doing some research, you will probably read that SQ setups don't need rear speakers, which is true if you have front speakers that can keep up. Although keeping rear speakers is a more of a personal preference when you're not competing, I'm not sure your front speakers would keep up on their own.
I think most of the people here are going to say that you will be putting way too much work into the audio setup for equipment that isn't stellar, so you won't net the results that would make the amount of work worthwhile. Even though a great install can make or break an install, you are still limited by your equipment.
That all being said, you had a well thought out, clearly written post with exactly what you wanted to accomplish. I thank you for that, and hope you'll get bitten by the high-end audio bug, because you'll never look back.
Specific to your setup: Doing some research, you will probably read that SQ setups don't need rear speakers, which is true if you have front speakers that can keep up. Although keeping rear speakers is a more of a personal preference when you're not competing, I'm not sure your front speakers would keep up on their own.
I think most of the people here are going to say that you will be putting way too much work into the audio setup for equipment that isn't stellar, so you won't net the results that would make the amount of work worthwhile. Even though a great install can make or break an install, you are still limited by your equipment.
That all being said, you had a well thought out, clearly written post with exactly what you wanted to accomplish. I thank you for that, and hope you'll get bitten by the high-end audio bug, because you'll never look back.
^ thanks
Yeah.
It is already starting to happen.
The more I research, the more awesome the whole audio world becomes.
I always just thought more speakers and more power. But I'm learning a lot of other things. The information is crazy.
I found out about the kick panel thing and that makes total sense.
I had it a bit twisted when I was first thinking about it. I was looking at it as the kick panel being a bad place because there is so much in the way. I just assumed that given the shape and seating of a car, you were just going to have to deal with the off centered sound stage.
I'm actually kind of glad that the equipment isn't awesome. I don't have anything to compare it to, other than stock replacement type of stuff. I want to see what kind of difference a "proper" set up makes, then work on getting better stuff that way I can really tell the difference between the equipment itself and not just go from stock, to stock replacement, to awesome set up and positioning with awesome equipment. Figure I'd learn more taking it in steps.
One challenge that I'm trying to over come with this particular build is that I still want it to sound good with the tops off. I want to be able to crank it up loud enough to hear it and it still have a good sound when cruisin around with the tops off.
I know it isn't going to be awesome with the tops off for a list of reasons, but I've been in other cars that had rather powerful systems and sounded great and loud but as soon as you dropped the top, you could barely get it loud enough to hear let alone get it loud enough to feel like you were listening to it loud. see what I'm sayin?
Yeah.
It is already starting to happen.
The more I research, the more awesome the whole audio world becomes.
I always just thought more speakers and more power. But I'm learning a lot of other things. The information is crazy.
I found out about the kick panel thing and that makes total sense.
I had it a bit twisted when I was first thinking about it. I was looking at it as the kick panel being a bad place because there is so much in the way. I just assumed that given the shape and seating of a car, you were just going to have to deal with the off centered sound stage.
I'm actually kind of glad that the equipment isn't awesome. I don't have anything to compare it to, other than stock replacement type of stuff. I want to see what kind of difference a "proper" set up makes, then work on getting better stuff that way I can really tell the difference between the equipment itself and not just go from stock, to stock replacement, to awesome set up and positioning with awesome equipment. Figure I'd learn more taking it in steps.
One challenge that I'm trying to over come with this particular build is that I still want it to sound good with the tops off. I want to be able to crank it up loud enough to hear it and it still have a good sound when cruisin around with the tops off.
I know it isn't going to be awesome with the tops off for a list of reasons, but I've been in other cars that had rather powerful systems and sounded great and loud but as soon as you dropped the top, you could barely get it loud enough to hear let alone get it loud enough to feel like you were listening to it loud. see what I'm sayin?
something you might want to look into is a sound processor like the audison bit one. ryan at srq custom autosounds did a convertible cedes a while back, and had the presets set to compensate for the different environments possible in a convertible. normally it would play at a volume that sounds good sealed up, but if you put the top down, just hit button 2 or whatever, and it boosts the ratios for certain frequencys in order to keep up with the demand for more sound.
the sound processor is also great for taking those locations, such as the kicks, and allowing you to time align and tweek and tune till everything melds together and sounds.. well. perfect.
the sound processor is also great for taking those locations, such as the kicks, and allowing you to time align and tweek and tune till everything melds together and sounds.. well. perfect.
__________________
a passion for audio. do it right the first time.
Taz Devil Customs
2000 Nissan Maxima, 3L
Hertz HSK 165 XL - 2 pairs
Hertz SPL SHOW 8" - 1 pair
Hertz EP-4 - mids/highs amp
Power Acustik BAMF 5500D - sub amp
Digital Designs 9518 - MONSTER
a passion for audio. do it right the first time.
Taz Devil Customs
2000 Nissan Maxima, 3L
Hertz HSK 165 XL - 2 pairs
Hertz SPL SHOW 8" - 1 pair
Hertz EP-4 - mids/highs amp
Power Acustik BAMF 5500D - sub amp
Digital Designs 9518 - MONSTER
If you have the money, horns might your route. Even with the tops off they should have no problem getting too loud for you. They are also an excellent SQ choice, but require a lot to get it perfect.
__________________
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
Need anything installed or built? PM me.
MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
Amazon has a killer blowout price on the Focal Polyglass 165VR comps. They are $270 and I think its through an authorized dealer.
Ditch all the Audiobahn stuff. Its total garbage.
Where are you located? I could help you with it.
Ditch all the Audiobahn stuff. Its total garbage.
Where are you located? I could help you with it.
something you might want to look into is a sound processor like the audison bit one. ryan at srq custom autosounds did a convertible cedes a while back, and had the presets set to compensate for the different environments possible in a convertible. normally it would play at a volume that sounds good sealed up, but if you put the top down, just hit button 2 or whatever, and it boosts the ratios for certain frequencys in order to keep up with the demand for more sound.
the sound processor is also great for taking those locations, such as the kicks, and allowing you to time align and tweek and tune till everything melds together and sounds.. well. perfect.
the sound processor is also great for taking those locations, such as the kicks, and allowing you to time align and tweek and tune till everything melds together and sounds.. well. perfect.

I learned that from my engine and chassis building days. There is a huge difference between building and tuning versus just throwing parts at something.


