what do u mean when u say " mass loaded vinyl "

 

this stuff -
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

I don't know what else to call it...


I have an almost full bulk box of Dynamat extreme. Figured that would do most of what I needed.
I'm not really looking to make the whole car silver. From what I've been able to research, seems like you only like 20-30% coverage anyway as this stuff doesn't block sound or insulate sound, it just stops (or at least assists with stopping) vibration and response.
If there isn't enough Dynamat to do the car, then I was looking to buy -
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=51
and/or
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=786
to fill in where I needed it. I was looking at those because they seem to be the best bang for the buck. I was starting to look into the second skin stuff. It seems to be favored over dynamat as far as a performance standpoint, but I've not been able to determine if it is worth the added cost.


the basic plan of attack was to use the dynamat as needed throughout the car, doors, floor pans, firewall, truck, etc etc. then using a insulating foam, such as
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/ccf perhaps not that exact thing, but as long as it is mold resistant and closed cell foam.
then putting a layer of mass loaded vinyl down to block as much sound as possible.
Don't know if you have ever been in a Z before, but they aren't exactly the quietest of interiors. Lots of engine noise. Road noise through the doors. and exhaust noise from the rear and through the tranny tunnel.

 

oh iv nvr seen it. look up second skin damplifier pro and spl tiles, a team mate of mine has a good amount for sale-

 

mass loaded vinyl is the "generic" name for SPL tiles.


how much does he have and what does he want for it?

 

ill have to ask, its like 11-15 sheets of damp pro and 15 spl tiles or sometihng, lookin for 100$ i just sold the same package for that much its a pretty good deal

 

will 11-15 sheets be enough for a trunk?

Let me know a lil more about it, Im thinking of getting some sound deadeners in my car. I got some before but i ripped it off because it was cheap stuff.

 

If youre talking about Robert he already sold his Second Skin.

Honestly, if you already have the Audiobahn stuff, might as well throw it in. I wouldnt bother making anything custom or anything like that yet. Just put it in to hold you over until you get the cash to buy some real equipment.

Audiobahn just is cheap, low quality, junk. It would be the same as someone saying they have a new drag car and are looking for tires, so they go to Walmart and buy the economy tires compared to an actual pair of drag slicks.

There are audio products that are built to sell, and then there are products that are built to be good.

I think if you sold all that stuff right now you would have the cash for a highs setup and amp for it.

 

I didn't even read your entire post... but why oh why are you going all audiobahn?

JL, MB Quartz, and Alpine FTMFW!

edit: and McIntosh <3

 

1) Mount your mids and tweeters as close together as possible, then as far forward as possible, and then as par apart as possible, while being on axis as possible. This will reduce path length differences. You want the drivers seat/listening position to be in the 'sweet spot'. Most of the imaging comes from your midbass speakers.

2) Find a place to mount midbass drivers as close to you mids/high, and make sure they are beefy enough with enough power to play down to about 70hz or so. This will eliminate the 'sub sound from the rear' problem. The problem is that midbass might need an enclosure which requires a larger mounting area. People have used the doors dynamatted and sealed somewhat as an option.

Getting this optimized will greatly reduce problems with equalization setup down the road. From the inexperienced ear's perspective, you should hear stereo but it should sound as if there is only a single speaker playing in the center of the dashboard forward of the windshield for all frequencies: Mids, midbass, and highs. Good luck with that... I have been trying to do that for 15 years and although I have gotten closer, there is room for improvement!

 

Your getting it... How realistic your stereo sounds is 90% dependent on the installation, 10% is the equipment. That's a good Richard Clark statement.