I dunno bro, that brutus i got is MACK DADDY, fuckin no overheats, run it at 75% capability constantly, and on hotter than 100-degree-in-my-car days.

I agree with John, its mainly build quality. I'm betting his amps are poopy amps. But i don't see it being the reason today, unless he's been strictly running em during the hotness of the day.

 

How long has this been installed?

 

about 1 month.

 

Lets take a look at the amp install competition list:

You: 1 (auto fanboy status?)

Me: 1 bizilion. They are the amp of choice for all mexican/civic driving people(my top customers)

Throw of of those behind a nice big box stock with no circulation and a little corner of air to work with and any amp will overheat.

 

Hey now Hifonics are a very nice budget amp, if I was on a strict budget I would buy them.

 

Yeah well at least i don't have the literacy of a 2nd grader.

I never said they wouldn't ever overheat, i said quality wise it does matter you dumbass, whats going to overheat faster? A fucking P.O.S. brand amp thats running at its max all the time because the company over-rates it's power making nubs think it does more than it's supposed to, or an amp that has a quality name and reputation behind it for making the power it's supposed to AND more?
I wasn't even trying to say you were wrong, I was just adding in the fact that John wasn't wrong; you're both right.


And i swear to God if you call me a mexican one more time i'm pulling out the N word.



That or i'll get my pitbull and my friends juan and miguel to stab your ass.

 

=/ theres nothing misspelled in my post so I dont get the literacy comment.

I said CIVIC driving mexican.

You're just a regular mexican you don't count amigo

 

I'll stand behind my original statement. Sure, if you take some rockwood amp and throw a blanket on top of it and then park it in the middle of a parking lot on a Florida July day and max the volume for 30 minutes, it's probably going to overheat.

The whole point of tuning a system is not only to get it to sound right, but to keep it within it's range of safe maximal performance as well. I've installed probably 1000 amps in my day (everything from $100 amps to $1000 amps), and have only seen a handful come back because of overheating problems. And of half of the amps that came back from that handful were because the owner took the car home and messed with all the settings themselves.


I've also seen amps that would go into protect without getting warm at all, and vice versa, amps that would melt the flesh off your fingers that would run without going into protect all day long.

 

I see this alot shortly after an install (of course it always is from the "other" shop that the customer has now gotten fed up with and wants you to correct their mistake for free). Check the power connection at the battery. Especially if it is a GM with the added on side mount audio lug adapter for the battery. Many installers tighten up the locknut and twist the cable around to where it now has bound up tension. Once you drive a little, the cable pulls and loosens the nut causing amps to clip when power peaks hit. Also, check the fuse block (usually underhood) to be sure it was mounted properly and the ends aren't pulling out of the caps (usually see black burnt marks on the ends of the fuse). If it was working properly a month ago, most likely you are ending up with a loose connection (also check ground cable to body to make sure it is still tight). One month comebacks are almost always a "not so good" connection that reared its ugly head after a few weeks of bumps.

Matt/MCOR

 

my .02
gains are not volume controls!
you said you have 4 gauge wire to the amps - bet you did nothing to upgrade your battery to ground! or alt to ground.
do you know how to use a volt meter? - what loads are your amps seeing? are they rated for that?
these are basic installer rules to follow - if dont know, pay someone who does and save your equiptment - in the long run your system will sound better - louder and last longer!