Pics of systems....
im gonna estimate based on the size of the trunk and comparing it to the holes, that those are 2" diameter pipes and they they are 4 inches in length and each side is roughly 2cubic ft.
That would tune the enclosure to 50hz. I'm gonna wager a rebuild within the first several hours of use.
That would tune the enclosure to 50hz. I'm gonna wager a rebuild within the first several hours of use.
i just built it. i dont know any thing about that stuff lol.
will it sound nice?
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So you just built a large, elaborate box....on a hunch?
how did you get the idea to do it that way?
and its funny looking at the box, it looks like something dalton would make

if i didnt know better i'd say you stole one of his ideas



I'm running a glazed donut special...
Blocking a port will make it worse - basically once you reach a certain excursion the port can no longer allow air to exit and it will sound like its clipping even though its just increasing resistance within the enclosure that will reduce output and efficiency and sound like ass.
The larger the woofer and the longer its excursion - the larger port you will need to accomodate all the air that will be flowing back & forth through the port. When your port isnt big enough it puts resistance on the air flowing through it and acts as a sealed box would by reducing the low end response and also eating up the extra power it would take to force the air to move. Theres formulas that gives you a "port match" and as that number aproaches its maximum (usually 1) the compliance of the air in the enclosure aproaches infinity. The goal is to get a port match of like .05 or somthing really small.The problem is the smaller the port match the longer the port is. So the goal is to blend perormance with practicality.
Sound nice is in the ear of the listener. If you like it thats all that counts. You wont be getting a very flat response curve however.
Toby was saying you should add some horizontal bracing across the far walls to stiffen your box up. I find that 2x3 beams work great and cost like $2
so should i block of one of the ports?
The larger the woofer and the longer its excursion - the larger port you will need to accomodate all the air that will be flowing back & forth through the port. When your port isnt big enough it puts resistance on the air flowing through it and acts as a sealed box would by reducing the low end response and also eating up the extra power it would take to force the air to move. Theres formulas that gives you a "port match" and as that number aproaches its maximum (usually 1) the compliance of the air in the enclosure aproaches infinity. The goal is to get a port match of like .05 or somthing really small.The problem is the smaller the port match the longer the port is. So the goal is to blend perormance with practicality.
so is it going to sound like crap???
i just built it. i dont know any thing about that stuff lol.
will it sound nice?
i just built it. i dont know any thing about that stuff lol.
will it sound nice?
i feel stupid saying this but i have no clue on what you are talking about.
Last edited by Notladstyle; Sep 5, 2006 at 08:24 PM.
I'm running a glazed donut special...
Blocking a port will make it worse - basically once you reach a certain excursion the port can no longer allow air to exit and it will sound like its clipping even though its just increasing resistance within the enclosure that will reduce output and efficiency and sound like ass.
The larger the woofer and the longer its excursion - the larger port you will need to accomodate all the air that will be flowing back & forth through the port. When your port isnt big enough it puts resistance on the air flowing through it and acts as a sealed box would by reducing the low end response and also eating up the extra power it would take to force the air to move. Theres formulas that gives you a "port match" and as that number aproaches its maximum (usually 1) the compliance of the air in the enclosure aproaches infinity. The goal is to get a port match of like .05 or somthing really small.The problem is the smaller the port match the longer the port is. So the goal is to blend perormance with practicality.
Sound nice is in the ear of the listener. If you like it thats all that counts. You wont be getting a very flat response curve however.
Toby was saying you should add some horizontal bracing across the far walls to stiffen your box up. I find that 2x3 beams work great and cost like $2
Blocking a port will make it worse - basically once you reach a certain excursion the port can no longer allow air to exit and it will sound like its clipping even though its just increasing resistance within the enclosure that will reduce output and efficiency and sound like ass.
The larger the woofer and the longer its excursion - the larger port you will need to accomodate all the air that will be flowing back & forth through the port. When your port isnt big enough it puts resistance on the air flowing through it and acts as a sealed box would by reducing the low end response and also eating up the extra power it would take to force the air to move. Theres formulas that gives you a "port match" and as that number aproaches its maximum (usually 1) the compliance of the air in the enclosure aproaches infinity. The goal is to get a port match of like .05 or somthing really small.The problem is the smaller the port match the longer the port is. So the goal is to blend perormance with practicality.
Sound nice is in the ear of the listener. If you like it thats all that counts. You wont be getting a very flat response curve however.
Toby was saying you should add some horizontal bracing across the far walls to stiffen your box up. I find that 2x3 beams work great and cost like $2
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ya but i dont have my lisence yet(turn 18 in 4 months)thats when i will get it. i am geting it carpeted and wired up today.
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Of course, test is out first and see how it sounds.



