Screw new school amps!
Guest
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yeah, that 2250 was a bad bitch. I bought it from a shop my senior year of highschool on lay-away
It was used, and previously blown. The owner brought it in for repair, and never came to pick it back up. The shop owner thinks he sold recreational pharmacueticals, so he might have been away for an involuntary, extended period of time..LOL..anyhow, I picked that one up for the princely sum of $300.... Blew it up myself which is when I found the need for extra batteries for the first time
. I smoked my MTX Blue Thunder 12s in about 3 days running it 4 ohm stereo.. Sold it to a friend of mine who had a Toyota mini with 4 Kicker C15s... Damn that sob pounded! A couple of years later in like 95 I bought it back from him along with his 15s, and put them all in my Taurus SHO with 2 deep cycle batteries. As you can imagine, the trunk was useless for more than a notebook after that..LOL..
Somewhere along the line my tailight gasket started leaking and one day I turned on the stereo and the 2250 popped again. Since then it just sat around until my house was broken into in 2001. They stole that, some shitty Pioneer IMPP 12s, and some other items.
When I had my subs replaced in 2003, I got 8 ohm subs(lookin back I shoulda got 2ohm DVC's) with the plans of running two 2250s. I bought 2 of them from different people off the net. One was blown, I ended up saying screw it and sold them and just did the Rockford stuff. But I love the 2250SX/XTR2250. Id also love to get an old Zeus or Colossus Series VII. I had an Odin VI and a Gemini VII. I was actually planning on a new Boltar VII when I bought the 2250 the first time. Then again, a few old Autotek 7600BTS's, Linear 500, or a G&S Redline amp would be nice too..Im starting to think that even those shitty old Sherwood bricks(the 70+70) hit harder than half of the 600W amps of today.
I can honestly say, these 10s never sounded so good though.
It was used, and previously blown. The owner brought it in for repair, and never came to pick it back up. The shop owner thinks he sold recreational pharmacueticals, so he might have been away for an involuntary, extended period of time..LOL..anyhow, I picked that one up for the princely sum of $300.... Blew it up myself which is when I found the need for extra batteries for the first time
. I smoked my MTX Blue Thunder 12s in about 3 days running it 4 ohm stereo.. Sold it to a friend of mine who had a Toyota mini with 4 Kicker C15s... Damn that sob pounded! A couple of years later in like 95 I bought it back from him along with his 15s, and put them all in my Taurus SHO with 2 deep cycle batteries. As you can imagine, the trunk was useless for more than a notebook after that..LOL..Somewhere along the line my tailight gasket started leaking and one day I turned on the stereo and the 2250 popped again. Since then it just sat around until my house was broken into in 2001. They stole that, some shitty Pioneer IMPP 12s, and some other items.
When I had my subs replaced in 2003, I got 8 ohm subs(lookin back I shoulda got 2ohm DVC's) with the plans of running two 2250s. I bought 2 of them from different people off the net. One was blown, I ended up saying screw it and sold them and just did the Rockford stuff. But I love the 2250SX/XTR2250. Id also love to get an old Zeus or Colossus Series VII. I had an Odin VI and a Gemini VII. I was actually planning on a new Boltar VII when I bought the 2250 the first time. Then again, a few old Autotek 7600BTS's, Linear 500, or a G&S Redline amp would be nice too..Im starting to think that even those shitty old Sherwood bricks(the 70+70) hit harder than half of the 600W amps of today.
I can honestly say, these 10s never sounded so good though.
Guest
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A capacitor's measly 1/4th of a second of maintained power is more than enough to cove the supply delay and since the battery has no problem maintaining that current spike for a few extra milliseconds while the capacitor recharges, it causes no loss in power.
In order to understand the value of a capacitor you have to understand how short a bass punch really is - maybe a half a second at most. So half of that note isnt getting full potential from your amplifier every time the bass hits.
Capacitor = HIGHER PEAK POWER
BIG THREE = HIGHER MAINTAINED POWER
In order to understand the value of a capacitor you have to understand how short a bass punch really is - maybe a half a second at most. So half of that note isnt getting full potential from your amplifier every time the bass hits.
Capacitor = HIGHER PEAK POWER
BIG THREE = HIGHER MAINTAINED POWER
When I listen to anything that would be considered 'urban' music, I go for the low, long notes. Yeah, triple 6 is sometimes on the list. Or alot of the time I will play old booty shake stuff like Uncle Al, Dynamixx, or 95 South.
By the big three, you mean alternator/batts and caps?
Right now I have about 12 foot of 4 or 2 ga running to the the cap, same size running about 2' to the PDB, then 8ga running about 2' to one amp, about 6" to the other. Groud is the same 8 ga to a ground PDB then the 4 or 2 ga to large surface of bare body on at one of the cab mount bolts.
Considering how dim my lights go, Im thinkin I probably have enough supply cable. The factory alternator is already 170-190A, and its because of the towing pack. Other than that, nothing really loading the charge system down other than the engines ECU, A/C and fuel pump. It doesnt even have an electric fan.
Think one or two extra batts will help out with the demand for these 2-3 second long notes?
Guest
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So that would probably be the 12th? I might be able to make that.
colossus...now that brings back some bad memories. Can't remember which series it was that I put in once (about 1989-90) but that was one big, scary, unstable amp. Even with the huge (like 7 second) delay, that thing had about 140db of turn off thump. We had it running two Fane 24 inch pro woofers...in a renault encore.
I also remember pulling one out once...power and ground to the amp were disconnected from the fuse/distribution block, and they touched the trunk floor together. The caps in that thing held so much power, the cables welded themselves to the trunk!
Toby
I also remember pulling one out once...power and ground to the amp were disconnected from the fuse/distribution block, and they touched the trunk floor together. The caps in that thing held so much power, the cables welded themselves to the trunk!
Toby
Guest
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colossus...now that brings back some bad memories. Can't remember which series it was that I put in once (about 1989-90) but that was one big, scary, unstable amp. Even with the huge (like 7 second) delay, that thing had about 140db of turn off thump. We had it running two Fane 24 inch pro woofers...in a renault encore.
An Encore? LOL..
Thats worse than this kid in highschool. He had 4 Kicker C15s in a push push isobaric arrangement, with a PAIR of Autotek 7600's...He was running a 7300 and a 7150? for his mids and highs. All in a Chevy Sprint hatchback..I think..Whatever that peice of shit was that was based on the Isuzu I Mark.
Funny thing was, it was a brand new car and within two weeks he broke the welds loose for the cross brace that runs across the roof at the B pillar.
And at the time I thought I was the shit with a Autotek 7100 running on a pair of Blue Thunder 12s.
Ever ran one of those? They used to pound, but by far the hottest running amps I ever seen(and they would take it). You could about crank one up and put a skillet on the heat sink and cook breakfast. I actually got burned to the point of a forming a blister on one of those things!
Does the recharge of the cap somehow come into play in all this as well?
When I listen to anything that would be considered 'urban' music, I go for the low, long notes. Yeah, triple 6 is sometimes on the list. Or alot of the time I will play old booty shake stuff like Uncle Al, Dynamixx, or 95 South.
By the big three, you mean alternator/batts and caps?
Right now I have about 12 foot of 4 or 2 ga running to the the cap, same size running about 2' to the PDB, then 8ga running about 2' to one amp, about 6" to the other. Groud is the same 8 ga to a ground PDB then the 4 or 2 ga to large surface of bare body on at one of the cab mount bolts.
Considering how dim my lights go, Im thinkin I probably have enough supply cable. The factory alternator is already 170-190A, and its because of the towing pack. Other than that, nothing really loading the charge system down other than the engines ECU, A/C and fuel pump. It doesnt even have an electric fan.
Think one or two extra batts will help out with the demand for these 2-3 second long notes?
When I listen to anything that would be considered 'urban' music, I go for the low, long notes. Yeah, triple 6 is sometimes on the list. Or alot of the time I will play old booty shake stuff like Uncle Al, Dynamixx, or 95 South.
By the big three, you mean alternator/batts and caps?
Right now I have about 12 foot of 4 or 2 ga running to the the cap, same size running about 2' to the PDB, then 8ga running about 2' to one amp, about 6" to the other. Groud is the same 8 ga to a ground PDB then the 4 or 2 ga to large surface of bare body on at one of the cab mount bolts.
Considering how dim my lights go, Im thinkin I probably have enough supply cable. The factory alternator is already 170-190A, and its because of the towing pack. Other than that, nothing really loading the charge system down other than the engines ECU, A/C and fuel pump. It doesnt even have an electric fan.
Think one or two extra batts will help out with the demand for these 2-3 second long notes?
So when the bass hits
- capacitor will maintain the voltage for a fraction of a second
- the battery or alternator will supply the extra current until the amp doesnt need it
- once the amp no longer demands the extray current the capacitor will recharge itself to whatever the current voltage is and will rise as the alternator raises the voltage back to 13.x. since the capacitor never demands a higher voltage than is currently available it does not add a load to the circuit!
Caps will do nothing for long notes, they do not affect the voltage while charging since they simply prolong the current demand:
So when the bass hits
- capacitor will maintain the voltage for a fraction of a second
- the battery or alternator will supply the extra current until the amp doesnt need it
- once the amp no longer demands the extray current the capacitor will recharge itself to whatever the current voltage is and will rise as the alternator raises the voltage back to 13.x. since the capacitor never demands a higher voltage than is currently available it does not add a load to the circuit!
So when the bass hits
- capacitor will maintain the voltage for a fraction of a second
- the battery or alternator will supply the extra current until the amp doesnt need it
- once the amp no longer demands the extray current the capacitor will recharge itself to whatever the current voltage is and will rise as the alternator raises the voltage back to 13.x. since the capacitor never demands a higher voltage than is currently available it does not add a load to the circuit!
Again, splitting hairs, because the load isn't big, and doesn't last long, but there is a load.
Toby
just out of curiosity, i'm pretty lost with most of the stuff that's being said here... but dalton said something that kinda piqued my curiosity. being that i'll be listening to mostly fast bass (double bass stuff) with ~600 watts worth of bass amp... would a cap really be helpful for my particular setup? what size would be worth a damn, if any?





