hahaha owned.


I think he changes his junk so much it'd just be pointless or this thread would be getting a half a page a week just from him...

I have to add onto my review once i get those amps hooked up. I'm really excited.

 

^^ yeah thats why I refrained from posting but A challenege has been issued.

Kenwood MP4028 (05 series)

Best deck I've ever had for sound quality. The internal amp puts out a modest 17watts(ces200 compliant) of power at 12v but you can tell its struggling because the display will dim on bass notes. With the car on there is no such problems. The specs put the preouts at 4v, from the three amps I have driven on it, they get best output without tuning at a little over 3.5 on the gain but still better than any 2v deck I've used.

The MP3 playback is smooth enough, it takes 9 seconds from drive load to begin playing a fully loaded CDRW, 6 or 7 for a CDR. I did have problems using a cheap laptop LG CDRW drive to burn discs, problem went away when I used a better burner.

The remote controls only the basic functions tone/volume tracks and has numbers for direct folder/track access but you cannot get to the crossover or system settings menu from it.

Diamond D312d2 (05 series)
400 RMS 800 Peak
Awesome output for the price, likes to throw power around. Modest enclosure requirements, I got a almost flat ported box response with 2cuft. Very versitile, I have had very good results with ported boxes tuned high and low.

Polk 300.2 (03 series)
450wRMS at 4ohms
220wRMS x 2 at 2ohm stereo
Best amp in the world. Honestly, its built like a tank, looks very professional and hides all the wires with the shrouds on. The internal capacitance is insanely high, there are three rows of 10 high value capacitors buffering the regulated power supply inside this baby. The lowpass crossover is 18db/octave the 15hz subsonic filter is 24db/octave.

it has a 1/2" thick aluminum heatsink which covers three sides of the amp and has never gotten too hot to touch even after several hours of play during roadtrips. This only drawback is that it uses a/b circutry and for that reason I would get the polk 500.1 that uses class D for subs.

 

Probably one of the reasons why in the future I'm getting all Polk-only car audio gear, i've had very good times with them and most of the stuff i've heard from them sound fantastic, this just reinforces my beliefs; i just am weary of them mostly because of the price of some of their things. Hopefully in the future it won't be an issue.

 

lol thanks for the worst review comment! I gave some review on the head unit being good and that kenwood ones are good quality with great sound and also the 6.5"s have good sound on a budget is basically what I said. The subs I guess I could elaborate a little on but hasn't everyone heard comps by now lmao. If not then you really need to get into car audio some more. Anyways the comps give nice sound but the CVR's are a good upgrade. Comps are for people looking for bump, CVR's are where you really should start IMO.

And I too change my system around often so I will probably be back shortly with the review on all the other things too. This time it will be much more in depth. I mean how much can I really say about jensens door speakers....

 

A lot... not all of us here make much money, and some newbies who are getting into this can only afford so much, you giving insight on these lower-rated products can help them choose between that and another low-end speaker such as a sony... and help them stray as far away from those as possible.

You could give detailed explanations covering the differences between those jensens and the quality of the new speakers you're planning on dumping in once you install them.

Just because most of the post-ers on here are most likely not going to buy low end again, doesnt mean not all the readers wont look into it.

 

Exactly. There's A LOT more people who simply read threads in here rather than actually posting, most of which couldn't tell you the difference between Pyle and Audison.

 

Car: 2004 Chevy Impala

2 15" MTX 7515s
Power Acoustik 3.0 Cap
US Amps, Merlin Series II 5000 wtts
Sony deck with 7"screen
200 amp Alternator

The first day I had it, Damn it was so so sweet. I let my car run for 5 hours at a party, and then when I cut the car off, it was over. My brand new(2 days old) Optima battery had been drained dead cause my alternator was only supplying 115 amps, and at 1/3 volume I was sucking over 100 amps. So when I had it all the way, I lost all power when I tried to start it up. The battery got so drained that even after an 8hr slow charge at the shop couldnt save it. I just got a 200amp alternator now, and it is way louder that it ever was. Both side mirrors lost all electronic control, and my license plate lights are blown. Yeah it is loud as fuck and with the MYX 6 1/2" up front it sounds nice. Anyway after all said and dont it came to roughly $4800 but it was worth every dime

 

lmao $300 under retail for each sub...wow...rip...anyway"

Sorry about not saying much about jensens...these speakers are good only if you want to replace your stock speakers because they don't work anymore. They sound good but the upgrade from stock is marginal...I say this becuase the woofer puts out about stock mids and the tweeters are a little clear/brighter than stock. I would spring the extra money for the new sony 4 ways if I was to stay cheap becuase the mids are an upgrade and the highs are pretty damn loud for $70 speakers...I actually can't believe I am saying this but the highs sound better than Kicker KS speakers (not components just normal KS) although the KS mids will sound better. The KS components I will be getting will have much clearer highs and more defined mids due to the seperate woofer and tweeter and the crossover that will filter out certain frequencies to each speaker allowing the speaker to play what it is meant to play. Just to add also, the RS and SS line of speakers ARE worth their price. You can put KS components next to the RS and it will sound like night and day. The RS has much richer sound and way more life like. When someone is talking on a CD they actually sound as if they are sitting next to you.

 

Let's keep this thread clean and somewhat free of posts not containing an actual review of your equipment, otherwise the thread has lost it's value.

 

Which Optima? If it was the red top, I'm not surpised. That is a starting battery, and doesn't like to go below 11.5 volts very often, or for very long. If its your only battery, go with a yellow top. If its just a stero battery, go blue top.

In my Escalade, I have a voltage sensing system that links my two batteries. As long as voltage stays above 11.5, both my main (yellow top) and my rear battery (Stinger) are connected. Once the voltage falls below 11.5, they are seperated. Since the audio / video all runs off the back battery, this take the load off of the starting battery. I can run the rear battery completly down, and still start the car.

So, I can sit at the stadium and watch the pregame on my 27 inch retractable TV,without worrying.

The device also has an LED that goes from green to yellow to red, so you know what state its in.

Toby