ok so i should just dynomat the metal pannel that is the actuall outside of the car, or the one that is right there when i take off the interior panel?

 

You technically want to deaden the cavity that the speaker is mounted in...however most of the time it is extremly difficult.... so what you want to do is take a strip about 2 inch wide down the center (or close to it) of the inside of the door skin and a round piece directly behind the speaker... This takes the resonance out of your doors...... then completely cover the the face of the door in dynamat leaving only holes for wiring and mounting points...This will stop wave cancellation.

I prefer dynamat extreme my self due to the fact it sticks like glue and its thin...there are other companies out there but I use what I know works....
oh as a side note in oder to prevent clipping it is all how you set up your equipment..my rule of thumb is... your HU should have bass,mid,trebel all at zero and you gain youre amps at 80% HU volume and go to each amp and dial it to where you like it(b4 clipping occurs of course)... then u can crank it there all day long no problems.... make your X-overs do all the work your HU will sing

As always just opinion

 

Go to www.edesignaudio.com and buy some eDead v.1 (or V.1SE which is just as cheap as V.1 used to be. Damn I wish I coulda got that shit)

 

I personally don't think dynamatting your doors is going to yield the results you're after. Just my opinion though....

 

Dynamatting the doors wont bring earth shattering midbass but if you seperate the front and rear wave, you can sure a lot of concelation, and you will hear much more midbass trhan before.. altho, hed be much better off building the cool whip enclosure for a dedicated 6.5 or so, and then comps in the kics or whathave you.

 

i think i might try to find somewhere to put some 6 1/2 or 8's in the car. maybee somthing up where your feet go in the front or somthing, the amp im getting is the mtx1004 which is 90rms at 4 ohms, and the speakers are 80 rms each, so if run the fronts together and make it at 2 ohms on one channel and rears the same.. ill have 2 free channels for these small subs.

 

if you bridge the front you'll have mono sound, no l/r. Itd be better off just running the whole thing normal and use some efficient 6.5 or 8s

 

true true.. just run the 6.5's of 8's off the head unit or somthing?

 

OOORRR, i can get 2 of them, odds are htey would be SVC and a 4 ohm coil, so i could get 2 of them and pretty much have another sub, hook it up to my amp for my subs...since i run 2.6 ohms now, drop it down to 2 ohms... or would the frequencys not be right?

 

You would be feeding them sub bass, and its never a good idea to mix speakers like that on the same channel.. the freq would be off and it would be a wiring nightmare.

Take the 4 channel, and hook the fornt outputs to your components, and the rear ouputs to the 6/5's or 8's. Or bridge teh rear outputs tot eh 6.5's or8's. You wont have l/r if you bridge..but im not sure of the effect that will hav eon imaging