Well, id like to put some bumps in my MK3 supra... i dont want anything huge or deafening... i had enough of that as a kid. I just want to add some depth to my shizzle, but i dont wanna add 100 lbs more... my car is already like 4000 lbs as it sits now.

I need some suggestions for a Lightweight/efficient sub that will still hit pretty hard by itself... I only plan on running a single sub so i can keep the weight down, and i need something w/ an efficient magnet so it doesnt have to be gigantic.

id like to run a sealed box cuz i think they sound cleaner and sharper than ported or even bandpass box... this is probably gonna sit in my rear hatch compartment, but i dont want the box to be freakin huge...

a box w/ 1.25 cu.ft. should be big enough for any single sub, right?

its been like 2 years since ive messed w/ any systems, so bear with me now.

 

I'd look aournd for like an idq 10, or like you posted the hell out out of DD, maybe a 10w3... lots of 10's only require like .85 cubes, its awesaome

 

w3rd, i think i might build a box into the car... sort of. just remove the seat backs of my rear seats, and build a box to take up the same amount of space, and then some... but still bolt it to the hinges so i can fold it down. maybe i can lay down some 3M spray adhesive and apply a layer of grey leather-grained vinyl so it looks alright.

im sittin here figuring all the specs, and i know what my net volume has to be for the sub. ive got the occupied volume of the sub itself, the volume i have to add for the port. i still need to figure out the volume i have to add for the thickness of the panels, but im only gonna know that AFTER i measure my car and see what dimensions i have to work with... after all that, i can figure it all out. i think im gonna say fuckit and get a DD 3510... i just need to find a DD distributor, cuz i dont really wanna pay the $329 MSRP, but you get what you pay for too.

I may just need a place to build this thing, cuz i dont have a table saw, or Tape measuer long enough, and i dont have anything to cut curves either. Im thinkin, id like to use 3/4" MDF. Ive only seen Particle board though, and i dont think thats dense enough.

i have a feeling that a full size box w/ ~2.1 Cu.ft. internal volume made of MDF w/ screws and glue, and sub is gonna end up being at LEAST 100 lbs. But, i can offset it... ive got some little tricks i can do... so i may end up breaking even as far as weight is concerned...

oh btw, i did decide to switch to Ported since that would maximize my efficiency.

 

Nows the fun part

you can build it in my garage if you want, I have pretty much everythign youre gonna need, I might go buy a table saw soon, but a circular and straightedge works to get the job done.

Thing to alwasy remember, dont cut all the panels first, then try to assemble

cut 1, measure, the next, cut that one, mesure the next etc.

I also have a full sheed of mdf and my blazer to go get more

sounds like you have a damn good diea what you need to do, so just a few more questions... slot port? tube? 2 cubes seems large for 1 10..

 

well ive calculated the volume:

the DD 3510 needs ~ 1.75^ft of NET VOLUME.

so add 0.07^ft for the OCCUPIED VOLUME.

Then, add 0.1975 ^ft for PORT VOLUME.

that brings me to 2.0175^ft for GROSS VOLUME.

but i may still have to subtract for any internal braces i add, which i probably will to join the front and rear panels... possibly 2 braces. the top and side plates, i dont expect them to be terribly wide, they will be long, but narrow.

what do you think?

 

I would make the box longer like a rectangle than closer to a square for sake of prting simplicity, and I woudl use triangle braces personally, much more strength there.

I think making a 4 cube box for 2 10's is about rediculous ( i know youre not runnign 2 but think about that...)

you sure 1.75 isnt the total volume including port?

 

Have you thought about a fiberglass inclosure? If you are concerned about the weight, that is the way to go.

My .02

 

The 1.75^ft is NET VOLUME, the resonant air space that the speaker actually compresses, you cant count the volume of air sitting inside the port itself, that doesnt compress, that acts as another driver when the speaker hits. but you also cant count the amount of volume that the speaker takes up when its mounted... so you ahve to add those 2 volumes to the amount of volume that the speaker is spec'd for. but then you have to subtract the thickness of the wood. a 12x12x12 box is really only 10.5x10.5x10.5 on the inside, which is only 0.6699^ft, not 1.0^ft as previously thought when making a 12x12x12 box. so if you really want a 12x12x12 box w/ a true 1^ft of volume, you need to add 1.5" to your total outer dimensions when working w/ 3/4" wood. so we'd need a 13.5"x13.5"x13.5" box, which would have 12x12x12 INTERNAL dimensions... and THAT would yeild a true 1^ft.

you get what im saying right? i cant just build a box that yeilds 1.75^ft when measured from the outside... cuz ill be undersized when its all put together... and ill be scratching my head, wondering why my shit doesnt hit as hard as it should.

I could do Fiberglass, im not sure if i wanna do it. If i take out my rear seat backs, thatll earn me about 25-30 lbs to work with. if i switch out my full size steelie spare for a 20 lb spare, thatll earn me another 24 lbs to play with. if i switch to an aluminum jack from an FC, thatll save me about 4 lbs. If i chip out the sound deadner under the carpet, thatll get me another 24 lbs... so i can lose all the additional weight i put on... if i NEED to.

 

not trying to be a dick but youre telling me stuff I already know and have used many times...

seems liek youre talking down to me to tell me how to tie my shoes...

 

im not trying to be a dick either, im being thourough so there is no misunderstanding... i figured you knew what i was talking about, which is why i didnt understand why you said:

those are specs that came off of DD's page.
http://ddaudio.com/caraudio/enclosur...Size_hiEff.asp