General tips/info
rocktastic
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General tips/info
I'm going to check out an 8v Mk II GTi -- what are the trouble spots I should pay extra attention to?
I already know the brake/clutch pedal assembly needs replacing, but I haven't driven it, so I'm not sure how bad it is.
This is going to be an autox/RR-only car, so i'm mainly just concerned w/ the mechanical things -- the interior will eventually be removed.
Any info you give would be helpful--thanks!
I already know the brake/clutch pedal assembly needs replacing, but I haven't driven it, so I'm not sure how bad it is.
This is going to be an autox/RR-only car, so i'm mainly just concerned w/ the mechanical things -- the interior will eventually be removed.
Any info you give would be helpful--thanks!
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farfromügen
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Check to see if the heater core has been replaced, that was really the only major problem from the factory. Unless you're keen on having heat, I would just bypass it.
Are you just looking for tips/advice on what to look at for the purchase, or also for the performance/handling aspects?
EDIT: Check to see if...
the diff. rivets were replaced with the bolt kit yet.
there is still one of those nasty hydraulic front motor mounts
If you can PM me the VIN number I can give you all the factory info (what factory it was made at, and those goodies.)
Are you just looking for tips/advice on what to look at for the purchase, or also for the performance/handling aspects?
EDIT: Check to see if...
the diff. rivets were replaced with the bolt kit yet.
there is still one of those nasty hydraulic front motor mounts
If you can PM me the VIN number I can give you all the factory info (what factory it was made at, and those goodies.)
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Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
Last edited by mrnicejetta; 07-24-2006 at 12:58 PM.
rocktastic
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Check to see if the heater core has been replaced, that was really the only major problem from the factory. Unless you're keen on having heat, I would just bypass it.
Are you just looking for tips/advice on what to look at for the purchase, or also for the performance/handling aspects?
EDIT: Check to see if...
the diff. rivets were replaced with the bolt kit yet.
there is still one of those nasty hydraulic front motor mounts
If you can PM me the VIN number I can give you all the factory info (what factory it was made at, and those goodies.)
Are you just looking for tips/advice on what to look at for the purchase, or also for the performance/handling aspects?
EDIT: Check to see if...
the diff. rivets were replaced with the bolt kit yet.
there is still one of those nasty hydraulic front motor mounts
If you can PM me the VIN number I can give you all the factory info (what factory it was made at, and those goodies.)
Are the diff rivets something I need to get under the car to check?
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farfromügen
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You wouldn't be able to check with the tranny on. All you could really do is ask the guy. But that would be the first thing I'd do before auto-x'ing it.
I don't know the car or the owner (so I mean no offense), but I would check to make sure it's a proper GTi. Rear discs, dual inlet downpipe, and an oil cooler(what the filter threads on to) were only on GLi's and GTi's. I've often times seen people try to pass regular 2 door Golf's as GTi's.
I don't know the car or the owner (so I mean no offense), but I would check to make sure it's a proper GTi. Rear discs, dual inlet downpipe, and an oil cooler(what the filter threads on to) were only on GLi's and GTi's. I've often times seen people try to pass regular 2 door Golf's as GTi's.
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Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
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Actually the last 8V GTIs didnt have rear discs. I dont know when they started, but by 92 if you have an 8V GTI with discs in the rear, you have something special.
Unless the previous owner was racing the car, chances are the diff is not bolted, its still riveted. Actually if I was asking a seller if he bolted the diff and he said yes, I would figure he was A) lying and had no idea what I was talking about, B)knew what I was talking about and lying, or C) beat the living snot out of the car while he owned it.
Fact of the matter is, if you drive the car resonably you will never have a problem with the rivets, and most of the time you will just bust the spider gears anyhow. Rivets or bolts on the diff I wouldnt waste my time asking.
You do want to look for rust. usual problem areas are at the corners at the base of the windsheild, under the rear 1/4 windows, and the body seam at the rear under the taillights. Also, the floor pans have a nasty habit of rusting if the car was allowed to leak water for a long period of time, but due to the fact that the underside is undercoated you dont even see it by looking under the car. Only way to tell is by pulling up the carpet. Also check the shock towers in the front for rusting especially around back. Cars from the north get salt slung up in there and wreaks havoc.
Why would it need a clutch/brake pedal assembly??
Unless the previous owner was racing the car, chances are the diff is not bolted, its still riveted. Actually if I was asking a seller if he bolted the diff and he said yes, I would figure he was A) lying and had no idea what I was talking about, B)knew what I was talking about and lying, or C) beat the living snot out of the car while he owned it.
Fact of the matter is, if you drive the car resonably you will never have a problem with the rivets, and most of the time you will just bust the spider gears anyhow. Rivets or bolts on the diff I wouldnt waste my time asking.
You do want to look for rust. usual problem areas are at the corners at the base of the windsheild, under the rear 1/4 windows, and the body seam at the rear under the taillights. Also, the floor pans have a nasty habit of rusting if the car was allowed to leak water for a long period of time, but due to the fact that the underside is undercoated you dont even see it by looking under the car. Only way to tell is by pulling up the carpet. Also check the shock towers in the front for rusting especially around back. Cars from the north get salt slung up in there and wreaks havoc.
Why would it need a clutch/brake pedal assembly??
farfromügen
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The rivet/bolt question I was bringing up because of the auto-x. I've gone through a number of trannies even with stock power.
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Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
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I understand. But, unless hes BUYING an autox car, its probably a waste of his breath to ask.
As to breaking diffs with stock power, much of it is in how its driven. If the car is abused, the diffs will break. If the car is driven reasonably, they will last a reasonable amount of time.
Back in the day I was busting trannies right and left. I had just about singlehandedly cleaned out Cophers in Tampa AND Clearwater, as well as Ace of their 5 speed boxes. At that time I had an 8V rocco with a later model hydraulic head, header, exhaust, and a filter. I also had a puck clutch and routinely did clutch dump burnouts and powershifted the car.
Trannies would last me a week or two.
Fast forward to a few years ago, I had a stock 2Y box in my car for years, no problems. That was with a 1.8L 16V a 2.0L 16V, then a bad attempt at a 16V turbo and finally a very successful 8V turbo setup. The car would boil the tires by ROLLING on the throttle in 2nd gear. Never had a tranny issue until finally when 5th ate itself from a lack of fluid on a trip to Tampa.
I honestly think that what makes a huge difference is the way the car is driven and the cars maintanence. I never have a problem with hydraulic mounts. Then again, when my stock mount was wore out I bought a new one instead of a junkyard mount. And I put in all the bolts, including the one that goes through the starter.
I also have outgrown the practice of revving the car up and popping the clutch on every corner. That is basically beating on it. A 200hp turbo car will do a much more spectacular burnout and be putting more overall power down with a rev and moderate application of the clutch than a 110hp car will by having the engine revved to 6K and the clutch dumped.
But the shockload on the driveline parts will be ALOT higher in the second scenario, resulting in more broken parts.
Im not saying a bolt kit is a bad idea, but most of the people I see saying its a must are just driving retarded. If most of these people would quite driving like they are 17, their trannies would last alot longer.
As to breaking diffs with stock power, much of it is in how its driven. If the car is abused, the diffs will break. If the car is driven reasonably, they will last a reasonable amount of time.
Back in the day I was busting trannies right and left. I had just about singlehandedly cleaned out Cophers in Tampa AND Clearwater, as well as Ace of their 5 speed boxes. At that time I had an 8V rocco with a later model hydraulic head, header, exhaust, and a filter. I also had a puck clutch and routinely did clutch dump burnouts and powershifted the car.
Trannies would last me a week or two.
Fast forward to a few years ago, I had a stock 2Y box in my car for years, no problems. That was with a 1.8L 16V a 2.0L 16V, then a bad attempt at a 16V turbo and finally a very successful 8V turbo setup. The car would boil the tires by ROLLING on the throttle in 2nd gear. Never had a tranny issue until finally when 5th ate itself from a lack of fluid on a trip to Tampa.
I honestly think that what makes a huge difference is the way the car is driven and the cars maintanence. I never have a problem with hydraulic mounts. Then again, when my stock mount was wore out I bought a new one instead of a junkyard mount. And I put in all the bolts, including the one that goes through the starter.
I also have outgrown the practice of revving the car up and popping the clutch on every corner. That is basically beating on it. A 200hp turbo car will do a much more spectacular burnout and be putting more overall power down with a rev and moderate application of the clutch than a 110hp car will by having the engine revved to 6K and the clutch dumped.
But the shockload on the driveline parts will be ALOT higher in the second scenario, resulting in more broken parts.
Im not saying a bolt kit is a bad idea, but most of the people I see saying its a must are just driving retarded. If most of these people would quite driving like they are 17, their trannies would last alot longer.
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The majority of the time I don't even go past 3k. Most of the times I've had problems were when downshifting (and yes into the proper gear/ RPM). I really don't drive like an animal, yet I've still shot pinions through the bell housing, broken flywheels and pressure plates into 3+ pieces, and broken diffs loose a few times.
By no means am I trying to turn this in to a debate. I agree with with you for the most part.
Robofunc- Just take your time shifting... not necessarily double clutching, but atleast two seperate movements (gear to neutral, neutral to gear) until you get a feel for how she likes to be shifted.
By no means am I trying to turn this in to a debate. I agree with with you for the most part.
Robofunc- Just take your time shifting... not necessarily double clutching, but atleast two seperate movements (gear to neutral, neutral to gear) until you get a feel for how she likes to be shifted.
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Der schnellste mann im langsamsten auto
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rocktastic
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Thanks both of you for the info—this is useful stuff.
The car has had some performance mods—a mystery clutch, cams, chip. I know it's been driven hard, but it's going to be a track slut/project that myself and two others are going in-on, so if something breaks we can afford to wait and fix it right. If the tranny's still got rivets, I might bolt it just for the sake of longevity. 3+ drivers @ as many autox events as we can make means lots of abuse, so bullet-proofing is the first step.
I don't know about the pedal assembly—this was just given to me as a possible reason for the "bad" clutch feel, although I'm sure the clutch/transmission could just as easily be at fault.
Still haven't checked-out or driven it yet, but hopefully it'll be good enough for what we want.
The car has had some performance mods—a mystery clutch, cams, chip. I know it's been driven hard, but it's going to be a track slut/project that myself and two others are going in-on, so if something breaks we can afford to wait and fix it right. If the tranny's still got rivets, I might bolt it just for the sake of longevity. 3+ drivers @ as many autox events as we can make means lots of abuse, so bullet-proofing is the first step.
I don't know about the pedal assembly—this was just given to me as a possible reason for the "bad" clutch feel, although I'm sure the clutch/transmission could just as easily be at fault.
Still haven't checked-out or driven it yet, but hopefully it'll be good enough for what we want.
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