Please help fix my AE86
My car is running terribly. When I bought the car it ran smoothly. A month later a valve gets chipped from old age. I do a full rebuild and when I re-install everything it's giving me problems. I have come to a dead end with fixing it. It's throwing a code 4 (TPS). I have replaced the sensor 3 times and it still won't run properly. I need someone with a lot of expertise in AE86'S to come look and fix it. PM me a quote or reply with your expertise and how much you will charge to have it fixed. I NEED IT FIXED
thank you.
The car running as of today;
YouTube - MVI 0755
thank you.
The car running as of today;
YouTube - MVI 0755
if the tps is out of adjustment itll cause probs. also check the wires to the clip. when you removed the harness the insulation could of cracked and they could be shorting together. had to fix wires to the cps on my 7mgte due to this. btwm how does it run wit hthe tps unplugged altogether?
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042690/1 black 84 supra, 7mgte, truetrac, bbk, etc.. more in the works
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2117186/1 blue 85 supra, beater
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2965297/1black 86. saved from the crusher! wicked setup on the way.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2235741/1 64 chevy c10, finally getting a new body. woot!
TPS' on Toyotas this old do little more than help throttle response and fuel economy. With it disconnected, theres not a drastic difference. I ran with mine unplugged for the first week or two I owned it. I've never had any TPS trouble myself on my car, even though theres no clip for the connector. Looks like the same one you have.
Hearing it, theres no way a TPS can do that on that car. It sounds like its not getting the air or fuel it needs. That or the timing is WAY off, which is possible if youve rebuilt it and dropped it in without setting the timing.
What sort of ignition mods do you have?
Hearing it, theres no way a TPS can do that on that car. It sounds like its not getting the air or fuel it needs. That or the timing is WAY off, which is possible if youve rebuilt it and dropped it in without setting the timing.
What sort of ignition mods do you have?
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ASE: Brakes
Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h

ASE: Brakes
Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h
Last edited by Orion ZyGarian; Feb 2, 2009 at 12:31 AM.
Wow , i just happened to come across this thread and the SAME exact thing happened to me . I spent all day fixing it. Your timing is way off. I tried lining up the marks on the crank and the marks on the camshaft and it still ran like poo. My 4A-C engine has everything stripped off of it ...no pollution what so ever the bare minimum wiring , Im talkin just block, carburator, distributor and exhaust bare fuggin bones, so I doubt any of those sensors would cause that there are certain vaccuums on the carburator that you have to just close off if the are open but what really threw me off was the timing. I had toi adjust the belt multiple multiple multiple time till I fond just the right notch were the car ran normal. It turnd out being like -20 degrees from TDC. basically if you have your marks lined up on the crank gear and crank shaft , simply loosen the timing belt tensioner slide the belt off the top of the cam gear turn the cam gear (in my situation it was counter clockwise) one notch slip belt back on , retighten tensioner and crank her up to see how she runs. Believe me each single notch on that belt makes the car run differently so you have to find juuuust the right one. Once you got it its cake , minor idle adjustments by turning the distributor and or adjusting the carburator idle and car goes vroom vroom instead of putt putt. Dont waste your time pulling codes , and checking sensors , these engines are prehistoric they just need the basics...thats why I love them K.eep I.t S.imple S.tupid.



