well im wanting to get some specs on bothe engine's for a posible swap
some people are saying go with the 1jzgtte and some are saying 2jzgtte Im having problems finding HP info and tracking down front clip's as well....
but please list me up whitch you prefer and why, to me it make's more sence to do the 2j with the 3.0 displacement but other's are saying the 1j with the 2.5 disspalcement and i was just woundering why????
so any info would be great.
thanks much
art

 

well im still alittle halfed between the 2 engine's Im looking to put one in a 95-97 sc300 so i would like a pretty strait forword swap in and just basic mods such as a single turbo change out and the 6spd would be great but I wont cry if i dont get it....and as far as I know both the 1j and 2j both pretty much just slide in the frame of the sc300 the only thing im kinda woundering about is the 1j 92-95 I think is a odb1 and the 2j is a odb2 I am wanting to drop it in a odb2 car so i was thinking the 2j would be the better engine but seeing as I dont mess around with toyotas that much I dont know how reliable the 2j is.... now i understand the 1j is a higher reving engine but parts are a pain to find from what iv seen, now the other thing is if I did opt. to go with the 1j is the a odb1-odb2 harness convertion out there???
art

Oya thanks for the link

 

Just turbo the 2JZ that you already have...that'd be MUCH easier then swapping out engines. Its not like the Mk3 where you are better off swaping engines than turboing the N/A.

 

if you wanted to swap engines, i would suggest using the 1JZ motor as it was originally designed for the SC300, which was sold as a Soarer in japan, from 90+. the Soarer was never sold with the 2JZGTE. the US version, the SC300 had only the 2JZGE, which can easily be turbocharged and hold 600rwhp easily. this would be the easiest and most cost effective option.

for a soarer front cut, you are looking at ~$2000-$2400... and that gets you just the parts. you need to extend the wire harness and may even need to make an adapter harness for the engine harness to plug into the chassis/body wiring. its about 12 hours of solid wiring. not pretty and i would highly recommend against this sort of project for a noobie... just turbo the NA and run piggy backs. its proven and makes good power. plus the 2JZ will build more torque, mod for mod, when compared against the 1JZ.

 

now this is the kinda feed back im looking for the noob parts is kinda odd but i am a nood with the toyota thing so....LOL but I was kinda concered with the port's on the stock 2j n/a that was already in the sc300 seeing as its a n/a engine is there a cfm chart for it??? because if I do deside to go this rout I dont want a nasty amout of turbo lag due to low exh. cfm's....I can build a head for it no prob. but my main purpuse with the idea of the swap is NOT to do any internal work to it and from what iv seen the 2j heads are kinda bitch to pull now if I do go the rout of turbo n/a the cost is cut by a large margin but I dont want to sacrifice the lag for eas of instal if you know what i mean....now as far as cam's I would amagin that the n/a cams might have a largerr lift and duration than the turbo right of the bat but Im not sure seeing as at this point Im still learning about the them but what are your thought's on this ???
art

 

by far your best post yet...you will never, mark my words NEVER make more power than a stock non turbo bottom end can handle

 

you will need to pull the head and replace the head gasket with a thicker one if you're trying to make any kind of power safely on pump gas to bump compression, a bolt-on turbo kit will work fine, go with whats proven, trying to go outside the box on something like this can lead you into beating your head against the wall....surely KBprice will have input on this, as he has a very hard running na-t supra