Alignment Specs 2006 STi?
Thread Starter
Warfare
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 132
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Alignment Specs 2006 STi?
Hello all,
I have upgraded a few suspension pieces on my 2006 STi and am looking for advice on suspension specs.
Please let me know your thoughts and thank you in advance.
I have upgraded a few suspension pieces on my 2006 STi and am looking for advice on suspension specs.
- Whiteline Roll Center
- Whiteline ALK
- Whiteline Steering rack bushings
- Ground Control Camber Plates
- Ground Control Coilover on stock KYB shocks
Please let me know your thoughts and thank you in advance.
Will sleep for food.
Joined: May 2006
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I'll look for my alignment sheet and let you know.
What kind of settings are you looking for? Performance, tire savers?
EDIT: Off the top of my head you should run around -2.0F/-1.5R Camber, and slight toe for performance use. For caster, thats why you got the ALK. There is no OE adjustment for that.
If you want something that will be better for your tires run less camber and 0 toe.
Remember to have the alignment shop square off your steering wheel after and matching your tie rod lengths.
What kind of settings are you looking for? Performance, tire savers?
EDIT: Off the top of my head you should run around -2.0F/-1.5R Camber, and slight toe for performance use. For caster, thats why you got the ALK. There is no OE adjustment for that.
If you want something that will be better for your tires run less camber and 0 toe.
Remember to have the alignment shop square off your steering wheel after and matching your tie rod lengths.
Last edited by chome; Jun 8, 2010 at 06:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Warfare
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
chome,
I am looking for tire saving since that was the selling point to my wife.
The steering wheel is straight now and I had to eyeball toe since I think the tires were getting chewed up fast. Please hook me up with your specs.
djerickd,
I am about 1.5" lower in the front and about 1" in the rear. When I was first off the jack front was 2.5" lower and rear 2". was too low and induced too much camber. I feel I should have the lower control arms at minimum perpendicular to the ground.
Thanks for the info to date.
I am looking for tire saving since that was the selling point to my wife.
The steering wheel is straight now and I had to eyeball toe since I think the tires were getting chewed up fast. Please hook me up with your specs.
djerickd,
I am about 1.5" lower in the front and about 1" in the rear. When I was first off the jack front was 2.5" lower and rear 2". was too low and induced too much camber. I feel I should have the lower control arms at minimum perpendicular to the ground.
Thanks for the info to date.
yeah, I drive a miata
Joined: Mar 2006
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If you are trying to save tire, I would do 1.5-2* camber front and no more than 1* rear. Zero toe.
If you are looking for performance (and depending on how stiff the sidewall of your tires are) then 3-3.5* front, 2* camber rear, 1/8" toe out front, 1/8" toe in rear. If you don't ever take your car to a track or drive it very hard though, this is going to destroy your tires. Stiffer sidewall tires you need less camber.
If you are looking for performance (and depending on how stiff the sidewall of your tires are) then 3-3.5* front, 2* camber rear, 1/8" toe out front, 1/8" toe in rear. If you don't ever take your car to a track or drive it very hard though, this is going to destroy your tires. Stiffer sidewall tires you need less camber.
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Will sleep for food.
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For tire saving just stick to the stock alignment. Leave your toe at 0 for sure, since that will eat your tires more than camber.
It seems you have a lot of unnecessary suspension arms for shooting for a stock alignment. For example, you can acheieve that camber with the stock camber bolts and you have no use for your roll cell adjusters fixing your camber
curves.
Not attacking you, but if your not going to use the items you can get
money back by putting the stock stuff back on before getting an alignment.
It seems you have a lot of unnecessary suspension arms for shooting for a stock alignment. For example, you can acheieve that camber with the stock camber bolts and you have no use for your roll cell adjusters fixing your camber
curves.
Not attacking you, but if your not going to use the items you can get
money back by putting the stock stuff back on before getting an alignment.
Thread Starter
Warfare
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
For tire saving just stick to the stock alignment. Leave your toe at 0 for sure, since that will eat your tires more than camber.
It seems you have a lot of unnecessary suspension arms for shooting for a stock alignment. For example, you can acheieve that camber with the stock camber bolts and you have no use for your roll cell adjusters fixing your camber
curves.
Not attacking you, but if your not going to use the items you can get
money back by putting the stock stuff back on before getting an alignment.
It seems you have a lot of unnecessary suspension arms for shooting for a stock alignment. For example, you can acheieve that camber with the stock camber bolts and you have no use for your roll cell adjusters fixing your camber
curves.
Not attacking you, but if your not going to use the items you can get
money back by putting the stock stuff back on before getting an alignment.
Since I was lowering the car I wanted to have the adjustment necessary to keep the tires flat on the ground
. My second objective was to provide further enhancements to the stock setup for when(occasionally) I attend track days with NASA and the like.Thank you all for info
