SteelDragonSTi

This is something that's kept bugging me for quite some time. Its one of the reasons why I'm so damn paranoid with this car. I tried researching on NASIOC about this. To be honest, I did not get a clear answer. So I'm going to ask here and see what conclusions I come up with.

As some of you know my engine has been fully rebuilt. Here is a list of the engine parts only.

EJ257
Wiseco standard bore pistons
Eagle Rods
Cosworth race main/rod bearings
Nitride/forged OEM crank
New OEM oil pump
New OEM oil pick up tube
OEM oil pan
AEM Electronic oil pressure gauge. Sender is connected to the top galley (Below the turbo inlet)

I read the rule of thumb is 10psi per 1,000 RPM. Some argue its not enough.

So, what is the magic number that I need to look at the oil pressure gauge?
I'm sure in cold start up temps I should be around 85-100psi. I'm worried about hot temp during Idle, 3,000RPM and WOT.

Please discuss.

Followmylead

normal temp, psi should be like 20ish I think. im new to subies but my built 240 is like 20-30 warm at idle. i think you are in the ball park, and what you need to look for most importantly is the lack of pressure. if pressure dies and the motor is still running then you have a problem as im sure you already know

ShockerGT

On my STRI gauge, with the sender going from an oil filter sandwich, warming up, I have right around 100psi idling, when the motor is fully warmed up, I'm between 23-25psi idling. Cruising on the highway in 5th @ 3000rpm, I am around 85psi. I can't remember what I've hit going WOT up to my shift point.

00lgt

I read somewhere on nasioc that warm idle should be 14psi and higher rpms should be mid 80's cant remember the exact number

Sleeping_92_SI

Oil pressure is relative.
What are your bearing tolerances etc? S&R built?

Should be at least 25-30 even at idle (180-200*)...if it's dipping below the 13psi your dummy light will come on and bearings will be damaged.

Figuratively.......say like 25-90psi warm. With those bearing and considering who built it (S&R) i'm assuming i would be running a semi-thick oil. Talking to their builder he likes the loose side of spec. (nothing wrong with that by any means and it's actually better) But looser tolerance means use a thicker oil.

At a minimum if your past the break-in portion to go full syn use Rotella T6 5w-40 syn. I will be running a 5w-50 year round...i mean we do live in FLA.

Sleeping_92_SI

Why did you choose Cosworth bearings?

Did Bobby say anything about them???

SteelDragonSTi

I havent had any negative experiences with cosworth, hence why I bought the bearings for the car.

I am not in Tampa. S&R did not build the motor.

Sleeping_92_SI

Oh and oh.

I thought i read they built it sorry. Well your answer is up there anyway.