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Uncle Scottys Cocktail

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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What problems are you having Tom?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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nothing major just everyonce in a while ill have issues getting into first and second sometimes gets a little rough going in and im at 60k on the trans so its time to flush and refill plus ill be in the tearing the car apart within the next couple of days i need to do pads rotars getting ss lines and motoul fluid then painting my wheels and calipers figured while the car is up might as well flush the diff and trans and fill with new fluid since ive never done it myself and assume its never been done prior.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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does anyone have suggestions on brake packages ive been looking at fastwrx
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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hawk HP+ or EBC green/yellow. You probably don't need rotors, check the thickness. If you do then just get what is cheapest which should just be regular OEM replacement rotors. SS lines do nothing so unless you really want to waste the money then I would skip it. Also if you aren't going around doing trackdays then having a higher temp fluid also gives you no advantages.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LDadrenaline
hawk HP+ or EBC green/yellow. You probably don't need rotors, check the thickness. If you do then just get what is cheapest which should just be regular OEM replacement rotors. SS lines do nothing so unless you really want to waste the money then I would skip it. Also if you aren't going around doing trackdays then having a higher temp fluid also gives you no advantages.
Agreed!!!

I use Hawk HP+ and love them.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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yeah after sitting around online i opted out of the ss lines but i deff need rotars mine are shot and ive had them cut twice since i had the car since my alignment was off the pads were wearing uneven and maybe caused damage?There is not advantage to having sloted or drilled rotars?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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slotted nor drilled will provide any noticeable difference on the street.

also I have no idea how you could "cut" your rotors with a bad alignment. The brake caliper mounts to the hub and there are no moving suspension pieces involved. I don't see any possible way a bad alignment could affect that.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 02:57 AM
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^^Hes right,would affect ur tires not brakes.call Andrewtech,Sam will answer any question u have + more.just give them a call..
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 03:57 AM
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Disagree on the SS brake lines... LDadrenaline, you of all people should know being that you are in road racing.... too much pressure applied to the brake pedal can cause the rubber lines to expand and eventually fail under heavy braking... read the Modified Mag from a few months ago with Ken Block on the cover... the editor of the mag ran into an issue driving a Corvette and the brake lines failed.... also heat allows the brake fluid to boil (hence the Motul), and can then cause the brake lines to fail. Stock Corvette brake lines handle 450psi, where SS brake lines handle 1400+ psi.... and they are more responsive in heavy braking. My old eclipse had Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads, PowerSlot rotors, Stop Tech SS brake lines, and Motul brake fluid.... Went from a 135ft stopping distance to 102ft from 60mph. Driving on the street every day might not be worth getting, but if anyone is planning on road racing or even Auto-Xing the car, they are worth it.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 07:27 AM
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my point was to save him money in street driving. Unless your brake lines are 20 years old and cracking, you aren't going to heat them up enough on the street to notice a difference between stock and SS. I use slotted rotors, SS lines, and Motul RBF600 on all of my cars that touch the track... But for the stuff that doesn't I keep it as simple and spend as least money as possible.
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