Strut tower bar?
Originally Posted by Balboa
Preloading = put the bar on, jack up car, adjust and tighten bolts, lower car?
Preloading is basically a fancy term for taking the slack out of a suspension component. So where a strut brace is concerned, you would want to tighten up the slop by putting pressure towards the length of the bar. The good aftermarket strut braces usually allow adjustment of preload via some threaded insert. You preload 'em on the ground by torquing on the adjustment mechanism, and only slightly as the amount of preload wanted is very slight (normaly).
Last edited by Bill; Sep 14, 2005 at 04:02 AM.
Originally Posted by Balboa
^ That's essentially what I meant, but with the car off the ground you are able to preload it more.
Last edited by Bill; Sep 14, 2005 at 06:16 AM.
Originally Posted by Bill
And why would you want to do that? Disregard the fact that the suspension is unloaded, hanging down, and out of spec. What would you hope to gain by preloading the bar more? Strut towers with stress cracks? Camber impact? Don't really see what you're getting at. Keep in mind that preload is kind of a touchy topic. Some agrue that minor preload is needed on tower bars, some that none is needed, and still others argue that tower bars aren't needed altogether. I've yet to see anyone yet however argue that a ton of preload is desirable. You just want to kick out some slop, not stress suspension components.
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+1 to Bill - too much preload will distort the suspension geometry. When I used a jack it was a dinky scissor jack that was tightened just enough to get the bar to fit, no more.
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BTTS, STFU&D

BTTS, STFU&D
BTW - this is a pretty good answer to your question:
http://e30m3performance.com/myths/St...bar_theory.htm
http://e30m3performance.com/myths/St...bar_theory.htm
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BTTS, STFU&D

BTTS, STFU&D
Thanks for the info everybody. Looks like Ill be going with the rear sway first. A FSTB will probably come a little later down the road. I looked over the install instructions for a rear sway and it seems pretty straight forward. Are there any hangups that I should lookout for when throwing it on? Oh and are the swaybar endlinks absolutely necessary? I know theyll just give a greater improvement, but if Im getting them as well I need to save up a few extra pennies.
i would go with the IPD set up. we did a swap in the parking lot at Old chicago. pasenger side one bolt is kind of hard to get started.
244.25 for the whole kit. 20 22 24mm ajustable
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.as...38&RootID=1414
244.25 for the whole kit. 20 22 24mm ajustable
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.as...38&RootID=1414
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Last edited by BrewPuBeaver; Sep 14, 2005 at 10:12 AM.
Originally Posted by supaflytiger
Thanks for the info everybody. Looks like Ill be going with the rear sway first. A FSTB will probably come a little later down the road. I looked over the install instructions for a rear sway and it seems pretty straight forward. Are there any hangups that I should lookout for when throwing it on? Oh and are the swaybar endlinks absolutely necessary? I know theyll just give a greater improvement, but if Im getting them as well I need to save up a few extra pennies.
The rear is pretty easy.. I recommend having some help. I had Scott (LeroyDriver) help me when I did mine... When you are ready to do it I would be willign to help you just drop me a message.
- Mike


