Spring Installation Help
Hey everyone I just ordered a set of Progress Technology Springs for my Wrx (1.8,1.5in drop). I should get them next week. I was wondering does anybody know any places around here that can install them for a very good price or maybe you can and I'll pay you. Thanks
Shouldn't be too hard. I installed springs on a friends Malibu. The only hard part was the top strut plate had a large 'nipple' on top with the nut down inside of it. Had to take them to a shop with special tools.
A Chilton's or Haynes should do the trick, if they're out yet.
A Chilton's or Haynes should do the trick, if they're out yet.
The guy with the RH on his car said he bought springs for his car for around $200 installed at Racing Zone. So i am guessing aroun $80 for installation.
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R.I.P. Brian Nichols 02/07/1989-11/24/2008

R.I.P. Brian Nichols 02/07/1989-11/24/2008
Don't forget to schedule an alignment. I suggest you get one done within a day or three of the install with that much drop and don't take any long trips until then.
Jack up car front and rear, insert 4 jack stands
Remove wheels
The bottom of the strut is held on by 2 bolts. The top one adjusts camber. Mark the bolt and the strut housing so you can put the camber back the way it was when you reinstall the struts. You will see "tick marks" on it.
Remove both bolts. Impact gun almost always required.
Undo the brake line holder clip from the strut
90% loosen the top 3 bolts on the strut top in the engine bay
Separate the bottom of the strut from the knuckle/hub with a little shoving
Remove the top 3 bolts on the strut top while supporting the strut from the wheel area. Remove the strut.
Loosen the top strut bolt underneath the rubber circular dust cap/cover (impact gun). You will need to brace the bottom of the strut as you do this or it will just spin. You ideally want to use spring compressors before this, but I have found that it is almost completely unnecessary with the stock WRX struts/springs as they are not "loaded" heavily at all and you will not have parts flying at you when you remove the strut top nut and strut top itself.
Take close note of the orientation of all pieces. Look at how the spring sits into the lower divot of the spring perch. Look at how the arrow marking on the strut top points exactly outward (lines up with the lower mounting brackets for the 2 big bolts). Take note of the orientation of the rubber gasket underneath the strut top.
Finish disassembly.
Reassemble with new springs. Tighten the top strut mount nut very well. Let the impact gun sit there and blast away on it for 5 seconds after fully tightened normally.
Route the assembly back up through the wheel cavity in the right orientation and lightly hand-tighten the top 3 nuts to allow the strut to hang from them (this is fine).
Reinstall the lower 2 bolts. Tighten to at least 100 ft/lbs. Take note of your camber markings from before and make them line up.
Reattach the brake line + clip to the strut housing.
Go to the top nuts... DO NOT OVER-TORQUE the 3 nuts at the top of the strut mount in the engine bay. They are 11 ft/lbs spec as I recall. If you over-torque them and crank down on them, you will snap off a stud and be very unhappy.
That's about all I can remember off the top of my head.
Jack up car front and rear, insert 4 jack stands
Remove wheels
The bottom of the strut is held on by 2 bolts. The top one adjusts camber. Mark the bolt and the strut housing so you can put the camber back the way it was when you reinstall the struts. You will see "tick marks" on it.
Remove both bolts. Impact gun almost always required.
Undo the brake line holder clip from the strut
90% loosen the top 3 bolts on the strut top in the engine bay
Separate the bottom of the strut from the knuckle/hub with a little shoving
Remove the top 3 bolts on the strut top while supporting the strut from the wheel area. Remove the strut.
Loosen the top strut bolt underneath the rubber circular dust cap/cover (impact gun). You will need to brace the bottom of the strut as you do this or it will just spin. You ideally want to use spring compressors before this, but I have found that it is almost completely unnecessary with the stock WRX struts/springs as they are not "loaded" heavily at all and you will not have parts flying at you when you remove the strut top nut and strut top itself.
Take close note of the orientation of all pieces. Look at how the spring sits into the lower divot of the spring perch. Look at how the arrow marking on the strut top points exactly outward (lines up with the lower mounting brackets for the 2 big bolts). Take note of the orientation of the rubber gasket underneath the strut top.
Finish disassembly.
Reassemble with new springs. Tighten the top strut mount nut very well. Let the impact gun sit there and blast away on it for 5 seconds after fully tightened normally.
Route the assembly back up through the wheel cavity in the right orientation and lightly hand-tighten the top 3 nuts to allow the strut to hang from them (this is fine).
Reinstall the lower 2 bolts. Tighten to at least 100 ft/lbs. Take note of your camber markings from before and make them line up.
Reattach the brake line + clip to the strut housing.
Go to the top nuts... DO NOT OVER-TORQUE the 3 nuts at the top of the strut mount in the engine bay. They are 11 ft/lbs spec as I recall. If you over-torque them and crank down on them, you will snap off a stud and be very unhappy.
That's about all I can remember off the top of my head.



