I have a moment here and just wanted to share what i've seen in the field with many main girdles. I've seen alot of bolts and studs come loose more than anything, due to differences in materials used, poor holding/clamp force/load and poor machine quality with all girdles. Remember when your tourqing down each main cap with a torque wrench; your getting a great holding/clamp force/load for each main cap your tightening; but with the main girdle, you loose this holding/clamp force/load; fastener stretch characteristics change, your gambling with the holding/clamp force/load; that you now have to transfer through the main girdle (weak link). What I mean is that you now have to torque down your main bolts/studs in sequence (like a cylinder head) from center-out and hope that you get enough/adequate holding/clamp force/load applied to your main caps. I've even seen aluminum main girdles which is scary to me. I believe a main girdle is a weak link in your foundation. Also be prepared to grind down the arrows and numbers on top of your main caps so the main girdle clears and hopefully sits flat on top of all your main caps.
Furthermore, if you wanted to put something on nice and more effective in my opinion, install a windage tray; these do not affect the holding/clamp force/load, because they usually install after you have tightened all of your main caps down; but beware, there is no such thing as a bolt-on windage tray without modifications; you'll need spacers to space them away from the crankshaft counterweights so they do not come in contact with the windage tray as they spin; you'll need to shorten or lengthen your oil pump pick-up tube for proper pick-up to bottom of oil pan clearance; and check that your dipstick tube does not hit; if it does you may need to drill a hole or remove material from the windage tray.
To conclude, I hope this info. was useful in your journey, my name is ryan from zoomer's performance and I specialize in building street small block ford strokers; my ebay name is zoomersgarage