Originally Posted by
dmonster32
i honnestly have no clue when the last tune up was, ive only had the car for about 2 weeks all i did was weld the diff and drift it, kinda beating on it for a bit, but the guy i got it from didnt drive it sense 2007
You can't be serious... you bought a car you knew had been sitting for a really long time and you started driving it like a complete moron before going over the entire car to determine its actual condition and fix all of the issues it undoubtably has.
Either you really are a total idiot, or you are some moron punk teenager that thinks they are super JDM coolio because now you drive a mad tight driftoro mobile...
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
i dont even know where to begian,
I would suggest start by learning how to communicate like a human being. That means learning how to form a halfway decent sentence, typing it correctly, and then reading the responses you get with some sort of comprehension. I gave you a rather detailed list of "where to begian"
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
it gets stark some times,
I'm assuming you mean it gets
spark sometimes. If that is the case, then there in lies your problem. There is only so many things that can effect spark. If it is narrowed down to one or two cylinders, then you know the problem has to do with the cap/rotor, down to the plug itself. If it just stops getting spark all around, then you would start looking at the coil as an issue, and move to the CAS in the distributor.
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
i was thinking its a leak it could be a coolent issue,
I don't care what car you think you have experience with, a coolant leak doesn't short out the coil preventing spark. Now, given the fact that the car has sat for several years, I would bet money on the coolant lines being rotted out, as well as the water pump being bad. It is also highly possible that the radiator and subsequently, the heater core, all full of gunk as well. So you are quite possibly right about it having a coolant leak. However, that doesn't have anything to do with the way it is running, unless of course, you do in fact have a blown head gasket, which is also highly likely considering you took a car that had been sitting for several years and started beating on it.
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
also as i forgot to add to the first post, if i drive the car before ti warms up its laggy and dies and will not start,
So if you let it sit and idle it will run 100% perfect? But your earlier post said that it will die after you let it idle for a short period of time. So what is actually happening?
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
ive had to leave my in the parking lot of where i work for an entire day before it would start, i changed the starter.
Why would you change the starter?
Did the engine not turn over at all? Did you just get a clicking noise when you turned the key? Or did the engine spin and spin but not actually start?
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
spark plugs are good
How did you determine that? You just said you had no idea when the last tune up was. The plugs are at least 4 years old, and that doesn't count how long they were in the car before it was parked and just sat there. I would bet that the spark plugs are total crap.
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
timming is fine theres no oil in the cap,
What the hell does that even mean?
There is no oil in the cap, so therefore the timing must be spot on? You claim to have worked on Hondas, but I have absolutely no idea what honda engine you could have been working on that would have leaked oil into the cap when the timing was off.
Are you trying to say that there is no oil on the CAS? but since you don't know anything about nissans, I'm wondering how you would have even known where the CAS was considering it is in a totally different place on every popular honda engine.
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
im new to nissan, im fimilay with honda, im trying to get my hands on a sr swap or go ka-t but for now, i just need to get to work.
You want to swap in an SR or even worse, boost a KA, but you are incapable of doing simple maintenance on a car that you bought knowing it had issues?
Wow.
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
it may have something to do with the injectors cuz in 5th gear high way miles 65-80 mph the car will start to stutter its shoot the rmp up then drop then ill have about 10 to 15 miles and the gas pedal will start to get stiffer and stiffer then itll get soft and the car will die and take abuot a half hour to start back up.
Sense. That does not make. So it dies at idle, but you somehow managed to get it up to 80 miles per hour where it started stuttering. You do know that Stuttering means it developed a miss fire, and that is totally different then shooting the RPMs up and then the RPMs dropping. Of which, I'm curious, if it was in gear, how did the RPMs shoot up?
And how the hell did your gas pedal get stiffer? You know it is just a steel cable attached to a piece of metal with a spring on it right? It can't get stiffer or softer. So what the hell does that mean?
So does it take a half hour to start back up, or all day like you implied earlier?
Originally Posted by
dmonster32
i bought a real crappy car just trying to make the best outta this situation.
No, you bought a car that had sat for a long time and therefore required lots of work to get it back into shape that you decided to be a moron about, ignoring that, and go straight to beating on it.
You created all of these problems.
There is a reason why cars that have sat for a long time are so cheap, they need a lot of money in parts and time and effort to get back into decent shape.
If you have any hopes of getting this thing back where it should be, then stop being an idiot and fix it correctly.
In all honesty, I would suggest taking the loss on it and selling it for really cheap and let someone that knows what they are doing under the hood of a car get everything fixed so it can at least be driven.