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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Vz28
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Originally Posted by BlueStreak
I have also been wondering about the bias. I have HPS's on the back. Of course there is a lot of pad left back there. The fronts still have 1/4 in, not sure they will stand a full track day but the backs definitely will.

What can I expect if I went with the HT-10's on the front and left the HPS's on the back? Some guys match up all four corners with the same pad and some don't for whatever reason. Any thoughts?

I do a lot of work on my cars myself but really hate thinking about what and how to do things. I really hate paying people to do things I can do myself. The thing is I would much rather just drive.

You go on those mustang forums and there are so many differing perspectives.
It's a brake bias thing. On my Camaro the built-in rear bias, combined with soft springs (lots of weight transfer under braking) and less weight in the rear to begin with begs for much more braking capability up front than rear. If I run anywhere close to equal pads front and rear I can get MAJOR axle hop due to rears continually wanting to lock up and it is not easy to modulate. This may not happen to you (I know the rear is independent on your car) but it's worth keeping in mind. For daily driving I run HP+ up front and either stock or HPS in the rear...works well for autocross too, except that I feel the HPS are actually easier to modulate up front (the HP+'s tend to "stick" during hard braking). I would have gotten over 100k miles out of the original rear pads/rotors (including autox events) if I had never changed them, and the difference between front and rear rotor temps was over 400F last time I checked after a session.

I used HP+/HPS for my first track day but after that it was nice to have the capacity of a more dedicated pad, the last set I used was EBC YellowStuff front (HP+ rear), which worked great but they wear too quickly for a heavy car, the Bluestuff line would be better. Someone else will chime in on the Hawk HT series (I will probably try Carbotech XP8/10/12 next), but keep an eye on brake temps - temp-sensitive rotor paint or temp gun right after session, as extended high temps can damage calipers, melt boots etc. and cause more work for you.
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