Only the side of the bearing that sees the crank needs assembly lube. The backside should be dry. For how much, just enough to cover the surface.
For break-in, I've always done 20-30 minutes at idle / reving / 2500rpms, then change the oil and filter. That amount of time also gives me the chance to look for oil leaks and other assembly issues. After that, 1bar 3rd/4th gear pulls if the tune is right. It was explained to me that aftermarket ring packs are harder than stockers, so they need a harder wear-in to conform to the wall. Also, the wall is more file-like when it's fresh from the machine shop. It'll smooth out once the rings are dragged past it in break-in.
As for filing the rings, a lot of NPR ring packs that they include with CP's and Wisecos are very close to gap spec without touching them. If they're CP's, I wouldn't have a problem not filing them. I've also seen motors accidentally over/under gapped and then have no problem seating or holding high cylinder pressures. If it's already together, break it in, dyno it, and do 500 miles. That'll tell you if they were right.
Last edited by Epstein; 06-11-2009 at 05:45 PM.