engine assembly help.
speed cat
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engine assembly help.
I have been reading things that contradict each other on the net when It comes to re assembling a engine. I was looking for correct things to do that are important when re assembling and one thing I was wondering is do you use assembly lube on the back side of the bearing as well as the face that touches the crank shaft or just the back and lightly coat bearing face with non synthetic oil. I have read to do both so Im wondering because I know assembly lube is way thicker and wondering if it was correct to use it on the bearing face that touches crank shaft. Any other tips would be appreciated for assembly, I have a guide about break in, but any personal tips about what to do for engine break in period and first start up would be much appreciated. the engine is a stock ka24de with .40 over sized pistons. One other thing Iw as wondering if any one heard was, my machine shop said the rings he orderd with my pistons dont need file fitting adn are direct drop in.....has anyone heard of not having to file fit pistons since the block was bored and honed at the shop to my pistons....
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Only the side of the bearing that sees the crank needs assembly lube. The backside should be dry. For how much, just enough to cover the surface.
For break-in, I've always done 20-30 minutes at idle / reving / 2500rpms, then change the oil and filter. That amount of time also gives me the chance to look for oil leaks and other assembly issues. After that, 1bar 3rd/4th gear pulls if the tune is right. It was explained to me that aftermarket ring packs are harder than stockers, so they need a harder wear-in to conform to the wall. Also, the wall is more file-like when it's fresh from the machine shop. It'll smooth out once the rings are dragged past it in break-in.
As for filing the rings, a lot of NPR ring packs that they include with CP's and Wisecos are very close to gap spec without touching them. If they're CP's, I wouldn't have a problem not filing them. I've also seen motors accidentally over/under gapped and then have no problem seating or holding high cylinder pressures. If it's already together, break it in, dyno it, and do 500 miles. That'll tell you if they were right.
For break-in, I've always done 20-30 minutes at idle / reving / 2500rpms, then change the oil and filter. That amount of time also gives me the chance to look for oil leaks and other assembly issues. After that, 1bar 3rd/4th gear pulls if the tune is right. It was explained to me that aftermarket ring packs are harder than stockers, so they need a harder wear-in to conform to the wall. Also, the wall is more file-like when it's fresh from the machine shop. It'll smooth out once the rings are dragged past it in break-in.
As for filing the rings, a lot of NPR ring packs that they include with CP's and Wisecos are very close to gap spec without touching them. If they're CP's, I wouldn't have a problem not filing them. I've also seen motors accidentally over/under gapped and then have no problem seating or holding high cylinder pressures. If it's already together, break it in, dyno it, and do 500 miles. That'll tell you if they were right.
Last edited by Epstein; 06-11-2009 at 05:45 PM.
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Ep, do you let the engine idle, or actually put it at 2-2.5k rpms and run there for 20-30mins? When you rev, do you do full 7k rev or just half... I'm going to have to heat cycle/ break my motor in before I take it down to the dyno. Thanks. BTW did you get the package today?
Sorry for the slight thread jack, but it's relative.
Sorry for the slight thread jack, but it's relative.
speed cat
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cool, thanks. I wanted to clear some of this up. I hope all goes well, this will be my first rebuild and I can only hope everything starts lol. I re did my wire harness and sleeved it.
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Hold a few revs to get it to operating temp. Then you can burp the coolant and make sure your fans and thermo work. Basically let it idle after that. Half rev to see how it sounds and/or tune tip-in.
Got my package. Thanks!
Got my package. Thanks!
