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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #32 (permalink)  
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Paulino
Not harsh, just truthful
 
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Originally Posted by omniman
stock motors only make 135-140 fyi so a 10% wheel hp increase for a beginner DIY BUILD ISNT BAD, DONT BEAT YOURSELF UP.

most of the parts you listed dont change hp in anyway, like the fuel rail and head studs and "race" bearings lol. you might want to play with your cam gears but most tuners are scared to death to move cam gears these days. those cams will make 15 whp adjusted correctly over oem b16 cams even on a completely stock motor. the cams dont like a tight valve lash try running a cold .008 intake and a cold .009 exhaust (inch measurements). those cams are not too big so you can move the timing gears quite a bit with out worrying about hitting things. the intake is junk for making hp but hey its carbon fiber. an aem CA or comptec ice box will do way better. also if you have an oem catalyst that has 80k+ miles on it there is a chance that its melted internally and is causing a large restriction. your exhaust is fine enough for what you have. also the dyno type can vary hp a bit, but at the lower hp levels like your at it shouldnt be much.



Thanks man. The valves were loose when we did the lash, so my buddy set them to factory spec (7/. Its funny you say the intake is junk because I replaced an AEM CAI with the passwordjdm. LOL ..But it IS carbon fiber! Should I look into a velocity stack or the Comptech box? There is no cat, so it running straight from 2.5 to 2.36.

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you guys updated as I plan to make many changes to the motor with the info posted. Also, do I need a larger TB? I thought 60mm is fine for mild applications.