Originally Posted by
Pshull727
ONe bad thing i would like to know is the car going to make a lil more power with the carb setup and will i still need to dyno tune it all the time for any thing i do to the motor.I just want to be able to adjust it if its runnign ruch or lean.
This one first...Quick answer, NO. You should not have to dyno tune the car after any changes depending on how major they are. If you change the cam, I would suggest it, but it's not completely necissary. Dyno tuning with a carb may net you an extra 15 hp give or take 5 hp. I prefer to track tune a carb though. It's more fun.
Is the car going to be a 50/50 car? Or is it a 75/25 or just an all track car? This all factors in to which carb to run as well as how you want to have it set up.
The Steeda 19 cam is not too huge, so what the others have said about a 650 cfm carb is spot on. I didn't know if you were going to be running a large cam or a smaller one. In the past, my 67 mustang always responded well with a 750 vac secondary holley. I was running a 302 with decent flowing heads and a Performer RPM cam and intake pakage. I tried a 650 DP, and it slowed down by almost .4 sec in the 1/4 mile. Thats a drastic slow down to me. As soon as I jumped up with the cfm to 750, it came right back again. So I did some carb tuning, and it was fine. You're running the Performer heads, so I think they're the 1.94/1.60 valve heads? That motor should be fine with a 650. Especially with the Steeda 19 cam.
Overall, FOR ME, running a carb I've ALWAYS made more power with a LOT less $$$ involved. Running FI is easier if you have the $$$ to back it, but in the larger hp applications, you usually make more power with a carb IMO. You will loose MPG's, so if you're driving it on a daily basis, that is something to think about. Some people say you will loose a LOT of MPG's, but it's really not that much...Maybe 2 or 3MPG. (A fair trade IMO) The carb will be something that YOU can tune vs taking it to a tuner. (money saved already) You don't need to retune your carb unless you change elevations. (i.e. move to Colorado or something) And finally, if the car starts acting hinkey, you don't have to play the sensor game of replace and hope the computer kicked out the right code.
p.s. The Steeda 19 is not made to spin and make power up to 7000 rpm. I think it's made to spin up to 5500...but I could be wrong. Thats where mine stops making power at in my 95.