Originally Posted by
burgy240
Well, there are multiple 300+ HP SR's around here, mine will be one of them once I get a tune, and there is even someone (posted once in this thread already) that has a 540+HP SR so you can call it whatever you want, but it is a great combo with a miata no matter how you look at it.
Not saying it doesnt have potential but I just dont agree with everyone on it...its just not THAT good! It has nothing (other than an aluminum block) over a 4G63 at all....its just trendy..
Originally Posted by
burgy240
As for the JDM drift craze, you may want to do a little "hotrod" research, people have been putting engines from different makes into their cars for decades now!!
Nothing personal, but...no shit?
I dont have a problem with swapping engines in Miatas...302s okay, LSx, awesome, 1UZ, badass!, any I6, fucking awesome...just SR20s I cant stand.
Originally Posted by
richsr
Well i can do all the work myself so that saves a hell of alot of money, a decent ecu for the mazda is a min of £700, I paid half that for the sr20 complete with g/box ecu loom ect! The bp engine realistically is only good for around 250bhp, the sr20 is just getting started at 250.
I think XAT ended up spending like $5k-$7k fitting the SR in the Miata....oil pan, engine mounts etc. didnt work with it.
Originally Posted by
Jordan T
all i have to say for the miata engine is crank pulley.
Only the 89s and 90s have it...
As far as the BP engine only being good for 250...thats also where its "getting started"...I've seen a 1.6 rebuilt with stock parts make 300HP at the wheels...the B6P (1.6) has oil squirters, non-interference, and other boost related things that make it cool; the 323 GTX had the same exact engine except pistons for CR. Granted a SR should make more power than the equivilent B6P, but it also has half a liter more displacement. I'd rather take the iron block non-interference design so I dont have to fret about which valves are open and how much when doing a timing belt.
I think its years cheaper just to get a $1000 GReddy turbo kit, turn up the boost a bit and tune it than it is to swap out the engine, wire the new ECU in, make the new engine fit the chassis as well as the rest of the drivetrain, etc. etc.
Fuck that. I'll take a 1G-GTE 2.0 I6TT drivetrain which is $2000, which includes the whole front clip, differential, tranny, driveshaft, etc. etc.