Originally Posted by rotary nation

1. The car has a terrible idle/throttle problem. When I turn it on, it has terribly low idle (200-400 RPMS) and when giving it some throttle it will jump to 1500 and continuously jump between 1300 and 1500 and if given more throttle it will spike to 2500-3000 with no inbetween of 1500-2500 RPMS. Adjusting the bolt with a screw driver and an allen key has not fixed this problem. Also, replacing the IACV has not fixed my problem as well. IS THIS A NEW IACV?? ALSO CHECK FOR VACCUM LEAKS AND THE T/B GASKET AS WELL. IF IN DOUBT, REPLACE IT. U THE BRAKE-CLEAN METHOD, IT WORKS. CHECK FOR ANY SIGN OR WORN ON THE THROTTLE CABLE

2. VTEC does not engage. I was told to run a test wire to the solenoid and if the car didn't "bog down" that it was a bad solenoid. When I did this I heard a "popping" noise signifying that the solenoid was activating but the car did not bog. I went to DemonCivic for a scanner check on the computer and the oil pressure switch was on and working properly and the solenoid was working as well but it would not engage during an on-road test drive. If I tried running the car at high RPMS (5000+) it will feel as if it does not want to go into the high RPM range and actually feel slower than it does in the low ro mid-range RPMs. I was told that the vehicle could have an oil pressure problem, but I'm not sure on how to check for that if I do not have high enough oi pressure, and if I do have low oil pressure, what other symptoms should the car be experiencing other than VTEC not working? COULD BE A FEW THINGS, SOLONOID COULD BE "CLOG", SEE IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE TO LOAN OR BY A USED ONE. PRESSURE SWITCH IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THAT (I SELL 1 A WEEK), ALSO, CHECK OIL PRESSURE, ADD A SENSOR TO IT.

3. The engine acts extremely sluggish and loses almost all of it's torque/pick up or "giddyness" after it has been running for about 15 minutes. If I turn on the car for the first time during the day, the car will feel it has amazing low-mid range power for a stock car of course, but after the temperature rises to normal it loses it all and hitting wide open throttle makes the car even slower.
HMMM....WITH ALL THESE PROBLEMS, SOUNDS LIKE THE MOTOR IS BEAT, DO A COMP. TEST AND TELL US THE PSI PER CYL. IS THIS STOCK BTW?
4. Check engine light is on. When I came to DemonCivic to get the ECU codes read out, I was only throwing two codes; codes 14 and 41. Code 14 being an O2 sensor and negligible due to the fact that I will have my ECU chipped by phearable.net to block the code and code 41 being the IACV sensor. I was told that the IACV sensor was the problem to my VTEC not engaging so I proceeded to replaced the IACV, but it did not fix the idle problem or the VTEC problem. YES, O2 SENSOR WILL EFFECT VERY MINMAL, BUT THE CODE IS A IACV, IS THIS NEW? IF USED, BUY A NEW ONE!!!!

At this point TR, I am very down and frustrated about these problems since I have not found anyone to lead me in a good direction about what is going on with my car. Any good advice that will direct me to how I can fix these would be great. Thanks in advance, and thank you for reading.

~Kevin