And the problems persist..
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is full of Hondas =/
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And the problems persist..
Well, since I got my new 1994 GS-R, I have tried to correct some of the problems it's been giving me and to no avail. Right now the problems are as followed:
1. The car has a terrible idle/throttle problem. When I turn it on, it has terribly low idle (200-400 RPMS) and when giving it some throttle it will jump to 1500 and continuously jump between 1300 and 1500 and if given more throttle it will spike to 2500-3000 with no inbetween of 1500-2500 RPMS. Adjusting the bolt with a screw driver and an allen key has not fixed this problem. Also, replacing the IACV has not fixed my problem as well.
2. VTEC does not engage. I was told to run a test wire to the solenoid and if the car didn't "bog down" that it was a bad solenoid. When I did this I heard a "popping" noise signifying that the solenoid was activating but the car did not bog. I went to DemonCivic for a scanner check on the computer and the oil pressure switch was on and working properly and the solenoid was working as well but it would not engage during an on-road test drive. If I tried running the car at high RPMS (5000+) it will feel as if it does not want to go into the high RPM range and actually feel slower than it does in the low ro mid-range RPMs. I was told that the vehicle could have an oil pressure problem, but I'm not sure on how to check for that if I do not have high enough oi pressure, and if I do have low oil pressure, what other symptoms should the car be experiencing other than VTEC not working?
3. The engine acts extremely sluggish and loses almost all of it's torque/pick up or "giddyness" after it has been running for about 15 minutes. If I turn on the car for the first time during the day, the car will feel it has amazing low-mid range power for a stock car of course, but after the temperature rises to normal it loses it all and hitting wide open throttle makes the car even slower.
4. Check engine light is on. When I came to DemonCivic to get the ECU codes read out, I was only throwing two codes; codes 14 and 41. Code 14 being an O2 sensor and negligible due to the fact that I will have my ECU chipped by phearable.net to block the code and code 41 being the IACV sensor. I was told that the IACV sensor was the problem to my VTEC not engaging so I proceeded to replaced the IACV, but it did not fix the idle problem or the VTEC problem.
At this point TR, I am very down and frustrated about these problems since I have not found anyone to lead me in a good direction about what is going on with my car. Any good advice that will direct me to how I can fix these would be great. Thanks in advance, and thank you for reading.
~Kevin
1. The car has a terrible idle/throttle problem. When I turn it on, it has terribly low idle (200-400 RPMS) and when giving it some throttle it will jump to 1500 and continuously jump between 1300 and 1500 and if given more throttle it will spike to 2500-3000 with no inbetween of 1500-2500 RPMS. Adjusting the bolt with a screw driver and an allen key has not fixed this problem. Also, replacing the IACV has not fixed my problem as well.
2. VTEC does not engage. I was told to run a test wire to the solenoid and if the car didn't "bog down" that it was a bad solenoid. When I did this I heard a "popping" noise signifying that the solenoid was activating but the car did not bog. I went to DemonCivic for a scanner check on the computer and the oil pressure switch was on and working properly and the solenoid was working as well but it would not engage during an on-road test drive. If I tried running the car at high RPMS (5000+) it will feel as if it does not want to go into the high RPM range and actually feel slower than it does in the low ro mid-range RPMs. I was told that the vehicle could have an oil pressure problem, but I'm not sure on how to check for that if I do not have high enough oi pressure, and if I do have low oil pressure, what other symptoms should the car be experiencing other than VTEC not working?
3. The engine acts extremely sluggish and loses almost all of it's torque/pick up or "giddyness" after it has been running for about 15 minutes. If I turn on the car for the first time during the day, the car will feel it has amazing low-mid range power for a stock car of course, but after the temperature rises to normal it loses it all and hitting wide open throttle makes the car even slower.
4. Check engine light is on. When I came to DemonCivic to get the ECU codes read out, I was only throwing two codes; codes 14 and 41. Code 14 being an O2 sensor and negligible due to the fact that I will have my ECU chipped by phearable.net to block the code and code 41 being the IACV sensor. I was told that the IACV sensor was the problem to my VTEC not engaging so I proceeded to replaced the IACV, but it did not fix the idle problem or the VTEC problem.
At this point TR, I am very down and frustrated about these problems since I have not found anyone to lead me in a good direction about what is going on with my car. Any good advice that will direct me to how I can fix these would be great. Thanks in advance, and thank you for reading.
~Kevin
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1. Your fast idle thermo valve maybe the issue with your idle.
2. Your iacv code is probably a continuity issue with the plug/wiring.
3. Your vtec issue maybe an oil pressure issue, get an oil pressure gauge installed asap.
2. Your iacv code is probably a continuity issue with the plug/wiring.
3. Your vtec issue maybe an oil pressure issue, get an oil pressure gauge installed asap.
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Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
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Redrocket part 2
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make sure your iacv plug and iat plugs are not switch around g/l
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Last edited by ekhatchboy; Jun 6, 2007 at 11:43 AM. Reason: or is it map and iacv that have identical plugs? hmmm check em both!
Thread Starter
is full of Hondas =/
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Thank's John, but what about the car losing power after it has been warmed up (#3 in my original post)? Is there a certain reason for that? And I forgot to add, last weekend I didn't turn on the car for 3 days and when I turned it on Monday the engine was making very loud noticeable clattering/chattering noises, almost as if it sounded like it needed oil, although it went away after I drove around for awhile. I just recently did the oil change(this month, 4 quarts) so I know it's not a lack of oil. What's your opinion on that? And where do you believe is a good shop/retailer that I can get a good oil pressure gauge installed? Thanks for your help.
EDIT: IAT plug? Where is that located? Thanks.
EDIT: IAT plug? Where is that located? Thanks.
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Thank's John, but what about the car losing power after it has been warmed up (#3 in my original post)? Is there a certain reason for that? And I forgot to add, last weekend I didn't turn on the car for 3 days and when I turned it on Monday the engine was making very loud noticeable clattering/chattering noises, almost as if it sounded like it needed oil, although it went away after I drove around for awhile. I just recently did the oil change(this month, 4 quarts) so I know it's not a lack of oil. What's your opinion on that? And where do you believe is a good shop/retailer that I can get a good oil pressure gauge installed? Thanks for your help.
EDIT: IAT plug? Where is that located? Thanks.
EDIT: IAT plug? Where is that located? Thanks.
Red/Green wires running into the plug.
IACV is yellow-black/blue-black (If I remember correctly)
If your iat sensor is melted or damaged, the car won't throw a code 1/2 of the time. This will cause extra fuel or less fuel to be injected due to false IAT reports. The way to check if your iat sensor is bad would be to simply look at the tip of the sensor. If it is melted it is bad. You can also ohm out the sensor per the helms manual specs.
An oil pressure gauge setup can be installed or bought at almost any parts store. Go visit Lenard at GearHead performance in dunedin florida. He has a nice selection of oil pressure gauges to choose from & has great customer service.
Concerning where to get it installed, check the shop directory.
Good Luck.
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For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
yO!
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1. The car has a terrible idle/throttle problem. When I turn it on, it has terribly low idle (200-400 RPMS) and when giving it some throttle it will jump to 1500 and continuously jump between 1300 and 1500 and if given more throttle it will spike to 2500-3000 with no inbetween of 1500-2500 RPMS. Adjusting the bolt with a screw driver and an allen key has not fixed this problem. Also, replacing the IACV has not fixed my problem as well. IS THIS A NEW IACV?? ALSO CHECK FOR VACCUM LEAKS AND THE T/B GASKET AS WELL. IF IN DOUBT, REPLACE IT. U THE BRAKE-CLEAN METHOD, IT WORKS. CHECK FOR ANY SIGN OR WORN ON THE THROTTLE CABLE
2. VTEC does not engage. I was told to run a test wire to the solenoid and if the car didn't "bog down" that it was a bad solenoid. When I did this I heard a "popping" noise signifying that the solenoid was activating but the car did not bog. I went to DemonCivic for a scanner check on the computer and the oil pressure switch was on and working properly and the solenoid was working as well but it would not engage during an on-road test drive. If I tried running the car at high RPMS (5000+) it will feel as if it does not want to go into the high RPM range and actually feel slower than it does in the low ro mid-range RPMs. I was told that the vehicle could have an oil pressure problem, but I'm not sure on how to check for that if I do not have high enough oi pressure, and if I do have low oil pressure, what other symptoms should the car be experiencing other than VTEC not working? COULD BE A FEW THINGS, SOLONOID COULD BE "CLOG", SEE IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE TO LOAN OR BY A USED ONE. PRESSURE SWITCH IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THAT (I SELL 1 A WEEK), ALSO, CHECK OIL PRESSURE, ADD A SENSOR TO IT.
3. The engine acts extremely sluggish and loses almost all of it's torque/pick up or "giddyness" after it has been running for about 15 minutes. If I turn on the car for the first time during the day, the car will feel it has amazing low-mid range power for a stock car of course, but after the temperature rises to normal it loses it all and hitting wide open throttle makes the car even slower.
HMMM....WITH ALL THESE PROBLEMS, SOUNDS LIKE THE MOTOR IS BEAT, DO A COMP. TEST AND TELL US THE PSI PER CYL. IS THIS STOCK BTW?
4. Check engine light is on. When I came to DemonCivic to get the ECU codes read out, I was only throwing two codes; codes 14 and 41. Code 14 being an O2 sensor and negligible due to the fact that I will have my ECU chipped by phearable.net to block the code and code 41 being the IACV sensor. I was told that the IACV sensor was the problem to my VTEC not engaging so I proceeded to replaced the IACV, but it did not fix the idle problem or the VTEC problem. YES, O2 SENSOR WILL EFFECT VERY MINMAL, BUT THE CODE IS A IACV, IS THIS NEW? IF USED, BUY A NEW ONE!!!!
At this point TR, I am very down and frustrated about these problems since I have not found anyone to lead me in a good direction about what is going on with my car. Any good advice that will direct me to how I can fix these would be great. Thanks in advance, and thank you for reading.
~Kevin
2. VTEC does not engage. I was told to run a test wire to the solenoid and if the car didn't "bog down" that it was a bad solenoid. When I did this I heard a "popping" noise signifying that the solenoid was activating but the car did not bog. I went to DemonCivic for a scanner check on the computer and the oil pressure switch was on and working properly and the solenoid was working as well but it would not engage during an on-road test drive. If I tried running the car at high RPMS (5000+) it will feel as if it does not want to go into the high RPM range and actually feel slower than it does in the low ro mid-range RPMs. I was told that the vehicle could have an oil pressure problem, but I'm not sure on how to check for that if I do not have high enough oi pressure, and if I do have low oil pressure, what other symptoms should the car be experiencing other than VTEC not working? COULD BE A FEW THINGS, SOLONOID COULD BE "CLOG", SEE IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE TO LOAN OR BY A USED ONE. PRESSURE SWITCH IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THAT (I SELL 1 A WEEK), ALSO, CHECK OIL PRESSURE, ADD A SENSOR TO IT.
3. The engine acts extremely sluggish and loses almost all of it's torque/pick up or "giddyness" after it has been running for about 15 minutes. If I turn on the car for the first time during the day, the car will feel it has amazing low-mid range power for a stock car of course, but after the temperature rises to normal it loses it all and hitting wide open throttle makes the car even slower.
HMMM....WITH ALL THESE PROBLEMS, SOUNDS LIKE THE MOTOR IS BEAT, DO A COMP. TEST AND TELL US THE PSI PER CYL. IS THIS STOCK BTW?
4. Check engine light is on. When I came to DemonCivic to get the ECU codes read out, I was only throwing two codes; codes 14 and 41. Code 14 being an O2 sensor and negligible due to the fact that I will have my ECU chipped by phearable.net to block the code and code 41 being the IACV sensor. I was told that the IACV sensor was the problem to my VTEC not engaging so I proceeded to replaced the IACV, but it did not fix the idle problem or the VTEC problem. YES, O2 SENSOR WILL EFFECT VERY MINMAL, BUT THE CODE IS A IACV, IS THIS NEW? IF USED, BUY A NEW ONE!!!!
At this point TR, I am very down and frustrated about these problems since I have not found anyone to lead me in a good direction about what is going on with my car. Any good advice that will direct me to how I can fix these would be great. Thanks in advance, and thank you for reading.
~Kevin
Thread Starter
is full of Hondas =/
Joined: Apr 2006
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Alright, I'll head down to GearHeads when I can, I know Lenard personally as well. When I get around to installing the gauge, what PSI should I be looking for and what PSI should I not want? I know I'm asking too many questions, but I just want this car running mechanically sound like my old Si. Thanks a lot for all the info, I'll give rep.
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Thanks BERT-O for the help. I think I'm going to end up replacing the IACV all-in-all. And about the motor, it's all stock but the block was rebuilt due to a spun bearing the previous owner had experienced. When they rebuilt it, they replaced it with new OEM pistons, rods, and crank. Thanks again.
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yO!
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Thanks BERT-O for the help. I think I'm going to end up replacing the IACV all-in-all. And about the motor, it's all stock but the block was rebuilt due to a spun bearing the previous owner had experienced. When they rebuilt it, they replaced it with new OEM pistons, rods, and crank. Thanks again.
ah......kinda sounds like it. Wonder if whoever built it, bother inspectin the oil pump and its internals?
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My oil pressure is usually near 25psi at idle, and 75psi WOT, just to give you a ball park estimate.
