You have alot to learn about nitrous I see. I will EXPLAIN why I like dry kits in many curcumstances over wet. Just saying catch phrases like "dry sucks" or "wetter is better" leaves alot to be desired.

Unless you are using the old school method of spiking fuel pressure to raise injector flow rate. And even that works very well..but is limited. Otherwise..Its EXACTLY the same thing as the high end race cars....just less stages.

If you guys are running dry kits and your lean....you dont know what your doing or you just havent done the necessary checks and corrections to ensure you are operating correctly.

The late model guys that have access to flip chips and the like have it made IMO. And If I had that option on my GM I would run NOTHING but dry. Because thats exactly what these high end racers are doing. They have found that adding the fuel via the injector makes for a much more uniform combustion than trying to get fuel to flow correctly in a manifold or through many sets of nozzles and many sets of noids/lines/distribution blocks. Carb manifolds are not bad...but even the best EFI manifold leaves much to be desired. Even multi stage direct ports are very VERY finicky with too many moving parts and flow paths with potential "flow anomolies" to be reliable. On the high end dry stuff they are controlling that "extra" fuel through various means. Many engine managment systems now include provisions for multiple stages of dry nitrous just for that reason. FAST, Big Stuff 3, etc etc.
Using a flip chip is the same thing except its only good for one stage and there is no "input" for activation as far as I know. but it works just as well. Especially if we are only talking 75-150 or so. Anything above that there are various means to control fuel but become a bit more in depth.
The principles of wet vs dry apply to a late model mustang just as much as a 2500 hp race car.

I personally have run over a 320 shot in multiple stages all dry.
I have also run 400 shot in dual stage 200 dry followed by 200 wet direct port
As well as 300-400 strictly direct port.
And of course regular old single stage 150 shot wet kits.

I have had more issues with my wet kits...wether they be direct port or otherwise. Dont get me wrong...wet kits have thier place...especially for simplicity. But fuel noids are one of the highest fail items out there. Couple that with difficulty of getting even fuel flow down the manifold (especialy in the 5.0 manifolds) at higher shot sizes..and you can see why many are going dry.

I also belive dry kits are safer.
When is the last time you heard of injectors failing? very rarely! And they operate every single second the car is running. Hundreds of thousands of miles. they are the epitome of reliability!
When is the last time your heard of a fuel solinoid failing? I have personally seen many....including a few of my own. And they operate for 10 seconds at a time...rarely.
When is the last time you heard of a nitrous backfire occuring? Happens more frequently than I would like to see.
You will rarely get a nitrous backfire with a dry kit. And if you do it will be a VERY small one limited to whatever fuel was not injested into the cylinder (maybe due to reversion or other reason) in the area of the intake port. Very small in comparison to a manifold filled with fuel from a wet kit.

No matter which kit you choose...ALWAYS get to a dyno with a wideband to dial it in. Or if you have a wideband available on the street...even better. yes there are generic pill combos as prescribed by the manufacturer...but thats just a generality and no gaurentee the tune will be right.

And be sure your fuel pump can handle to TOTAL HP of both all motor + whatever the spray will add. If your running dry be sure the fuel pump AND the injectors will flow the required fuel for the TOTAL hp.

If its the type of dry kit that spikes the fuel pressure you should recalculate your new injector flow rate based on the fuel pressure after it is spiked for the new injector flow rate. Add a fudge factor as well.