Originally Posted by
NoTLaDStyle
All wattage is based on volume control - even at full gain the 1000/1's regulated output wouldnt put 1000w to the sub until the mids were to a close to unbearable volume. And because its regulated it wont peak much higher than that. How often do you really drive around at full volume(unless you are an asshat who likes annoying people)
And at full volume, even rap music doesnt usually (there are some that do) produce continous bass output so there would be plenty of time for thermals. People usually dont think about that when they are purchasing equipment. For dailey driving, a person with and 92db/m speakers would rarely if ever use more than 40 or 50 watts totall for all their midrange speakers and 100-200 to drive each woofer...
A true 750wrms speaker will without a doubt be able to handle 1000w music power reliably - maybe even more. Now if you throw sine waves on it thats a diff story.
No shit. But I'm not talking theoretically. What's next, are you going to explain to me how the amp isn't putting out 1000w rms when the car is off either? My point is that the jl 1000/1 puts out a true 1000w rms. I'm not talking about the percentage of time it does this, or any other off the wall variable you can come up with in your over-calculating little head.
Number one, a sub is much more prone to blowing in a ported box, no matter what wattage you're throwing at it. Number two, there's a reason why manufacturers put rated specs on their equipment. Overpowering a sub AND throwing it a big ported box is never a "safe" situation. Number three, I talk from experience, something that anyone who has been in car audio for more than several years will tell you is way more valuable than anything you learn in school, textbooks, theories, or calculations.
