HEY GUYS FOUND IT!!!!!!

Valve Adjustment.

Valve adjustment involves turning the crank pulley to TDC (Top Dead Center) for each cylinder, and adjusting clearances (between the lobes & rocker arms) to the thickness of a feeler gauge.

I actually recommend this to the "Do-it-yourselfer." Why??...
The engine should be cold and its better if its done at home. Cylinder head temperature must be below 100degrees F. It sucks if you have to drive your car to the dealer and wait for a valve adjustment. If they do it right, they'll wait for the engine to cool down (3-4hrs).

Do it yourself!..

The 90-91 should be .006-.007 inches intake and .007-.008 inches exhaust
The 92-93 should be .003-.005 inches intake and .006-.008 inches exhaust.
So, make sure you get a feeler gauge set that has these measurements.
For high mileage cars, keep the clearances short but always stay within spec. This will compensate for valve train wear and help decrease "tick" noise.

Make sure the car is out of gear (neutral). Take your valve cover and Upper timing belt cover off. Jack up the front of the car (driver side), and take off the driver side wheel to gain access to the HOLE in fender trim.
You will put a socket wrench & extension through this hole and rotate the crank as shown...



If you have trouble moving the crank because of mad compression, then remove the spark plugs (Cover up spark plug holes with rags to be safe). The crank pulley is what you're going to turn counterclockwise to set each piston to Top Dead Center (TDC).
"Well, how do you know if its at TDC?"



One of the spokes on each stock cam gear has an "up" mark. If these marks are both pointing straight up, that means the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
So, turn the crank until these up marks are pointing straight up. STOP there!, then adjust the valve clearances for the #1piston.

You'll do the same for next three pistons, but instead of having the "up" mark ..You'll have the next set of spokes pointing straight up for piston#3, then the next set of spokes pointing up for piston#4, and last set of spokes pointing up for piston#2.
Remember, Piston firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, NOT 1-2-3-4!

Adjusting clearance:



Do this for both intake & exhaust. The above illustrates approaching cams from the front with the feeler. Instead, I have found that approaching the cams from behind gives you a better reading because the feeler doesn't bend as much. Also, you might scratch the head wall's surface (not good for gasket seal).

-Stick the proper feeler in between the rocker arm & camshaft lobe and slide it in & out and feel! There should be a slight drag on the feeler gauge.
-If the drag is too tight or too loose, that means you have to adjust the clearance. Loosen the valve adjusting locknut.
-The screw that sits inside the nut raises or lowers the clearance. Turn that adjusting screw until you get the right drag on the feeler. Keep that screw in place, then tighten the locknut hand tight.
-Check the feel again. Many times you'll feel the adjusting screw turn when you tighten the nut. That will definitely throw your settings off. Once its correct, torque the locknut to 18ft.lbs using a torque wrench.

After you're done adjusting all 16, its a good idea to go back through the same process to recheck the clearances. Don't forget to inspect valve cover gasket and spark plug grommets (Replace if needed). Put back valve cover and front driver side wheel. Done!