hey guys what up? today i adjusted my vavles on the integra and under the hood it said the intake vavles should be 0.17 and the exhast vavles should be at 0.19 on the lash well i did it perfectly to that and when i put the vavle cover back on and everything and turned it on they were tapping harder than ever, i mean very very hard i couldnt even hear what was coming out of my mouth then a friend called me up about these motor mounts and well i told him that his shop is kinda far i might have to do that another day but anyway i had to fix this so i called Sam back and asked him what are you vavles set at he has the same car as me and he said the intake vavles are set at .004 and the exhast vavles are set at .006 so i did that and now the engine shakes a little bit but it feels stronger than ever what do you guys think? about that oh yeah and another thing i also tried .10 on the intake and .10 on the exhast and they still tapped loud as hell so here is my question where the hell should my vavles be at? does anyone know the perfect settings for a 1991 integra LS thanks for any help

 

the 0.17 and 0.19 are the specs in mm, anywhere from .004-.006 on the intake, and .006 and .008 are the specs in inches.
you need to be aware what your feeler guage reads in before you do anything like that again.

 

I have a 98 ex , and recently I have been hearing some tapping.
I was changing the oil yesterday and stuck my finger thru the oil hole.
I pushed on part thats attached to the springs ( rocker??) , and it moved and tapped, just like the tapping I hear when idling.

Do I need to adjust my valve lash? or is that normal?
Car has a shade under 60K.

Thanks
Cali

 

Depending on stroke type in said cylinder, there will be play in the rocker arm. Normal.
If you've gone 60k miles wihtout a valve lash check, It's time.

 

Millimeters != Inches

 

Yup, never been done....i guess thats my project next weekend.

Thanks

 

yeah sounds like you mixed inches and millimeters up.

one inch = 25.4 millimeters

fix this immediately

 

ok i am retarted asking these questions again and again but here we go......... right now the intake is set at .004 and the exhast is set at .006 now is this what there suppose to be at or are they suppose to be in inches or millimeters????? i am confusing my self again good god i am screeeedddddd to ride in my car i dont wanna burn a valve!!!!!!

 

HEY GUYS FOUND IT!!!!!!

Valve Adjustment.

Valve adjustment involves turning the crank pulley to TDC (Top Dead Center) for each cylinder, and adjusting clearances (between the lobes & rocker arms) to the thickness of a feeler gauge.

I actually recommend this to the "Do-it-yourselfer." Why??...
The engine should be cold and its better if its done at home. Cylinder head temperature must be below 100degrees F. It sucks if you have to drive your car to the dealer and wait for a valve adjustment. If they do it right, they'll wait for the engine to cool down (3-4hrs).

Do it yourself!..

The 90-91 should be .006-.007 inches intake and .007-.008 inches exhaust
The 92-93 should be .003-.005 inches intake and .006-.008 inches exhaust.
So, make sure you get a feeler gauge set that has these measurements.
For high mileage cars, keep the clearances short but always stay within spec. This will compensate for valve train wear and help decrease "tick" noise.

Make sure the car is out of gear (neutral). Take your valve cover and Upper timing belt cover off. Jack up the front of the car (driver side), and take off the driver side wheel to gain access to the HOLE in fender trim.
You will put a socket wrench & extension through this hole and rotate the crank as shown...



If you have trouble moving the crank because of mad compression, then remove the spark plugs (Cover up spark plug holes with rags to be safe). The crank pulley is what you're going to turn counterclockwise to set each piston to Top Dead Center (TDC).
"Well, how do you know if its at TDC?"



One of the spokes on each stock cam gear has an "up" mark. If these marks are both pointing straight up, that means the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
So, turn the crank until these up marks are pointing straight up. STOP there!, then adjust the valve clearances for the #1piston.

You'll do the same for next three pistons, but instead of having the "up" mark ..You'll have the next set of spokes pointing straight up for piston#3, then the next set of spokes pointing up for piston#4, and last set of spokes pointing up for piston#2.
Remember, Piston firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, NOT 1-2-3-4!

Adjusting clearance:



Do this for both intake & exhaust. The above illustrates approaching cams from the front with the feeler. Instead, I have found that approaching the cams from behind gives you a better reading because the feeler doesn't bend as much. Also, you might scratch the head wall's surface (not good for gasket seal).

-Stick the proper feeler in between the rocker arm & camshaft lobe and slide it in & out and feel! There should be a slight drag on the feeler gauge.
-If the drag is too tight or too loose, that means you have to adjust the clearance. Loosen the valve adjusting locknut.
-The screw that sits inside the nut raises or lowers the clearance. Turn that adjusting screw until you get the right drag on the feeler. Keep that screw in place, then tighten the locknut hand tight.
-Check the feel again. Many times you'll feel the adjusting screw turn when you tighten the nut. That will definitely throw your settings off. Once its correct, torque the locknut to 18ft.lbs using a torque wrench.

After you're done adjusting all 16, its a good idea to go back through the same process to recheck the clearances. Don't forget to inspect valve cover gasket and spark plug grommets (Replace if needed). Put back valve cover and front driver side wheel. Done!