Originally posted by Love Doctor
Check it:
The MR2 T (After a basic tune up of stock OEM parts) pumps out around 200hp (160rwhp). ok, this is ground Zero.
With these simple parts below:
HKS Intake (Got this)
Greddy IC (Need to buy, any offers)
Greddy Profec B II Boost Controller (Got this)
Greddy Boost cut gizmo (Got this)
HKS SS B.O.V. (Got this for fun, you actually dont need it)
Any 2.5" Exhaust (Need to buy) *Wanna help me gut the cat?
Red line fluids (Just for good measure)
With the parts above, and without touching any timing, cams, fuel pressure.... and running at 16lbs of boost.... I bet I will reach 276hp (230rwhp) easy. Yeah, thats right easy with a stock engine, clutch, and the so called "crappy" CT-26 stock turbo.
Guys, MR2s have been done thousands of times before. Unfortunetly, not before some of you brave racers have ventured off into your own discoveries. In any case, this is where I expect to be... I call this Stage 1.
These typical mods have been dyno tested over and over and over. I have witnessed them personally. The highest I saw output was about 210rwhp. This is a basic car with intake, exhaust, downpipe, intercooler upgrade, ebc and boost cut eliminator. BTW, you need a 3" exhaust. 2.5" is for n/a cars. You can run a 2.5, you will have like 225tq and about 180rwhp at this stage.
Stage 2 is simply tuning the car. We all know that after you past 12lbs of boost the MR2 starts to dump tons of fuel to keep from possible detenation cause it doesnt know whats going on. Meaning the MR2 doesnt know that the driver is raising the boost on purpose. LOL.
This is where we seperate the tuners from the random guessing tweakers. LOL.
S-AFC piggy back fuel computer (Need to buy, any offers)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (Need to buy, any offers)
Dyno (A shop w/ a Wide Band O2 Sensor available, know of one)
Now we can lean some of this extra fuel (Richin at other points) and see the dyno results. After a long day, there is no reason in the world we shouldn't go from 230rwhp to 250rwhp!
Now the only modification I'm going to do to the CT-26 is a 12 degree clip to hold a bit more peak power. This should then put me into 255rwhp or 306hp total.
So for around $300.00 I get a refreshed CT-26 with a slight modification that pumps out about 6 hp extra. I think its worth it.
All in all, 306hp should put me in the high 12s (Its really all driver and a little luck).
Once again you are way over estimating the results. With all of the 'piggy back' units you are intailing, you are forgetting that in order for the s-afc to actually accomplish anything, you will also need a vpc which are pricey. Might as well just get a stand alone. With tuning on just an s-afc and fpr you may gain an additional 10rwhp. You cannot tell the engine it is receiving less air, you can only trick it that you are running less boost by leaning or richening the fuel mixture, only bad thing is, timing will naturally retard or advance due to the ECU making adjustments because the air and fuel mixture does not fit into it's curves. You will not gain much.
Carlos and I had almost identical cars, only difference was he was using an s-afc, greddy ic and I was using a gforce ecu and stock ic. My car walked carlos' every single time. Because my ecu wasn't making drastic timing changes. His best track times were high 13's, mine high 12's.
We both had:
Gen 2 3sgte
intake, exhaust, ebc, ct26 w/54 trim.