Originally posted by kender
I had planned on the gas tank being replaced because of the baffling and was going to use the pickup and pump from the tank, on those tanks were the pumps in tank or external? why would the feed line need to be replaced? is the stock hardline not built for the pressure, Or is it the stock fittings that can't handle it? if that's the case then I'd just as soon run ss braided. on the reflash is there an edit program that will let me do it myself? I already have the eprom burner ( for most chips ) that I use for my other car, all I should need is the gui for the gm. I will stick with an auto trans that is mated to the engine that I get. I do wnat to keep a/c. I had been told that the lt1 vette engines didn't have a problem with the accessories hitting the frame. is this incorrect then? thanks for the help
The fittings on the stock carb'd system are worm style hose clamps and the car has a 5/16 fuel line, that is why you need to change it!It may suffice as a return line, but you still need a feed line. If there is a factory return line, it will be VERY small, 1/4 in or less. (It was part of an odd emissions control scheme and was common to many 70's and 80's carb'd cars) The pump is an in tank unit, IIRC from GM as are most all factory electric pumps. They run quieter that way. As I said in my previous post, the Vette LT1 acccessories will not hit the frame and are the ones to use. They are just a little difficult to find and not usually cheap when you do. With an LT1 you can also use the stock G body motor mounts and they will bolt in place so long as you do not use F car A/C parts. The reason is, the LT1 has an extra bolt hole further rearward than all previous small blocks for the F car mount, and the one that is not used for the mount, is now used as a mount for the low mount A/C compressor. You will also need a translator box to allow you to run the LT1 VSS (which is on the tailshaft, in the speedo gear hole) and the mechanical speedometer that all analog cluster G bodies had (some Regals were digital). Here's another option you may not have considered: skip the EFI and run a carb. GM Performance parts offers a carrb intake that allows a standard Holley to be run. An HEI distributor slides right in place as the block kept the accomodation for a rear distributor. That way, you can avoid the Opti Spark, most of the wiring and some of the plumbing.
One more thing: there is one thing you need to weld to use the 4L60E. The frame on G bodies built before 1985 cannot accomodate the proper crossmember for an overdrive trans without adding a little steel in the right place for a TH200 4R trans crossmember. This is done to an area like 4 inches rearward of the driver's side mounting point (IIRC) , but you should look at a 1985 or newer G body to be sure. You will need to find one anyways as you need this crossmember, unless you go with the MTS (Maximum Torque Specialties, they specilaize in Cadillac 472-500 V8 conversions in older GM cars) dual hump crossmember to accomodate a true dual exhaust.
Lastly, is the rearend. The stock 7.5 10 bolt is worthless if you ever plan to run sticky tires. The 7.625 10 bolt used in later models is a little better, but let's face it, a rear end designed for a Chevy Monza with a 2.5 liter Iron Puke is not a good choice for a V8! It will last for a while, but when it breaks, there is a stronger (if not rare ) choice. the 8.5 10 bolt. It came factory in the turbo Regals form the mid to late 80's and the Cutlass 442 and Hurst/Olds from the same time. Gearing was either 3.73 or 3.42, depending on model, and both were posi. If you get a 7.625 10 bolt from a Monte SS, you will get the crappiest Posi known to man: the Eaton Gov Lok. It is to be avoided at all costs unless free, because a free Gov Lok is better than an open diff.