I need a front passenger wheel hub with a good wheel bearing in it. Or someone who can come and swap just my wheel bearing out for me since I don't have a press lol. either or, let me know 813-507-9821

Thanks.
John


It's for a 420a btw

 

id recommend replacing both and sucking it up and buying new. also i would start PB blasting 3 days ago if you get a whole assembly its not gonna be easy. everyone is gonna sell you one that came from a working car but in the end its still a 10+yr old dsm.

 

I know. it's gonna run me 80 for a whole new assembly. Just not to sure if I could swing that this pay. just seeing whats out there tho. better then never asking tho.

 

you dont need a press.there is 4 bolts that hold it on.. i have one it looks new like it was replaced no rust on it... here a link to the beginning of my new web site Damon 727-712-7021 http://thrusttinnovationz.webs.com/

 

well damn. Chris said i need a press haha. And glad to hear your getting a site going dudw.i'll get in touch in a day or two. Lets see how much of my check i got leftover.

 

That is a decent price. Timken 513157 goes for around $70 on RockAuto Auto Parts but after you factor shipping in it would likely be the same.

As mentioned, it is a good idea to replace both sides if you can afford it.

Is there excessive runout on the hub? How did you test the current one to find out it has failed?

 

I just have shaking in my wheel I don't like and figured i'd swap out the hub instead of just the bearing. I hate to say it but I was hoping to just get a used one just so I could make it past new years and then fork out for both new.

 

With the wheel assembly mounted to the hub, have you verified that the play is coming from the hub? It is unlikely that a hub would fail quickly enough to produce shaking without giving you tell tale signs of its death prior. You eliminated other causes of possible vibration (tire, wheel, tie rods, ball joints upper & lower, etc)?

 

170k miles of blasting around town, racing, and pizza delivery...and the wheel bearings are about the only original equipment left on my car. (I think I just jinxed myself)

Dont just be a parts-swapper...

Looseness in the wheel could be bad inner or outer tie rods, any of the 3 ball joints, worn steering column joint...or that wheel bearing. I would say that is least likely of all those. Or it could be like my wheel, and just clunk ever since I R&Red the steering wheel itself, even though all the linkage is new.

 

thing is that me car doesnt actually shake until I brake over 60mph. I know that sounds like rotors, but rotors should also do it at lesser speeds to, correct? But if i'm going 50 and brake, no shake. Hit 60, horrible shakes with the slightest touch of the gas.

However, my wheel does have free play in it. I'll look deepier into it, but what should I look for to know what is causing it? Lol