Proven Power Dyno'ed My 2008 Honda Civic Si & I Will Be Back!!! :)
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I Am A One Man Wolf Pack.
Joined: Oct 2007
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Proven Power Dyno'ed My 2008 Honda Civic Si & I Will Be Back!!! :)
I called them up on Saturday morning and scheduled some pulls for a couple hours later and now I know what I need to work on to get my car where I want it! 
Also, I stopped by the Flea market and got some cool Proven Power T-shirts and saw a badass NSX being displayed. Thanks Proven Power! I have to make sure to bring my camera in next time so I can have a cool new sig! 
Out with the old crappy DC Sports Race Header:
In with the new Skunk2 Race Header:
Dyno Results at Proven Power:
207.65 HP / 151.45 WTQ
My Engine Mods
- Injen CAI
- Skunk2 Race Header
- Skunk2 70mm Exhaust
- NST Pulleys
- P2R TBS with Gaskets
- P2R IMG
- Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper
- Ingalls PowerStick
Now I need more aggressive cams, better intake manifold and Hondata FlashPro to tune!
Thanks Proven Power!
Also, I stopped by the Flea market and got some cool Proven Power T-shirts and saw a badass NSX being displayed. Thanks Proven Power! I have to make sure to bring my camera in next time so I can have a cool new sig! Out with the old crappy DC Sports Race Header:
In with the new Skunk2 Race Header:
Dyno Results at Proven Power:
207.65 HP / 151.45 WTQ
My Engine Mods
- Injen CAI
- Skunk2 Race Header
- Skunk2 70mm Exhaust
- NST Pulleys
- P2R TBS with Gaskets
- P2R IMG
- Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper
- Ingalls PowerStick
Now I need more aggressive cams, better intake manifold and Hondata FlashPro to tune!
Thanks Proven Power!
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Last edited by MobiusTech; May 17, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
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Getting rid of that DC sport header was the best first move you could've made, those hold back a lot believe it or not...goodluck with everything.
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'05 Kia Spectra5-now my fathers DD
'67 English Ford Cortina w/2.3 thunderbird turbo eng
...under construction
'99 ek...traded
'95 b16 eg hatch...traded
'92 DA...parted out
'89 CRX Si...traded
'93 Prelude Turbo...sold
'96 ek coupe...traded
'97 ek 4dr...sold
'96 Jeep Grand Cherokee
'98 Mustang GT
"You may get me off the line, but you know who daddy is!"
'05 Kia Spectra5-now my fathers DD
'67 English Ford Cortina w/2.3 thunderbird turbo eng
...under construction '99 ek...traded
'95 b16 eg hatch...traded
'92 DA...parted out
'89 CRX Si...traded
'93 Prelude Turbo...sold
'96 ek coupe...traded
'97 ek 4dr...sold
'96 Jeep Grand Cherokee
'98 Mustang GT
"You may get me off the line, but you know who daddy is!"
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Your NEW sig pic is being uploaded right now ill send you a copy as soon as its done !
That Skunk2 manifold looks nice !! I see the dyno printout scanned in nicely
That Skunk2 manifold looks nice !! I see the dyno printout scanned in nicely
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DYNO TUNING/CUSTOM FAB/METAL POLISHING & PORTING/ENGINE SWAPS
CHIPPING & SOCKETING/ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING/WIRING
CHIPPING & SOCKETING/ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING/WIRING
Thread Starter
I Am A One Man Wolf Pack.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,241
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Like I said, I came back.
I went to Proven Power today and he did a quick $100 Tune with my new FlashPro and this is what I got.
I need some IPS CAMS and a Valvetrain Kit. I want 250HP N/A and I will be happy!
Proven Power Tune = 216.82 HP / 154.55 TQ
Stock Tune = 198.75 HP / 150.96 TQ
Gain = 18.07 HP / 3.59 TQ
I'm going to the track tonight and I think I should be able to beat last week's 14.651 sec @ 97.21 MPH 1/4 mile run when I was just running the generic Hondata FlashPro MAF map.
I went to Proven Power today and he did a quick $100 Tune with my new FlashPro and this is what I got.
I need some IPS CAMS and a Valvetrain Kit. I want 250HP N/A and I will be happy!
Proven Power Tune = 216.82 HP / 154.55 TQ
Stock Tune = 198.75 HP / 150.96 TQ
Gain = 18.07 HP / 3.59 TQ
I'm going to the track tonight and I think I should be able to beat last week's 14.651 sec @ 97.21 MPH 1/4 mile run when I was just running the generic Hondata FlashPro MAF map.
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Last edited by MobiusTech; Jul 3, 2009 at 11:05 AM.
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I Am A One Man Wolf Pack.
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Maybe you guys can help me understand this?
I photoshoped the lines in for reference from my dyno yesterday. But it seems that the only time that I go over 14 AFR is from 4600 RPM to 5600RPM. Should I be near a constant 13:1 AFR at all times or what on a N/A engine? Or do I risk detonation and engine knock if I leave it as is? I'm a newb when it comes to tuning...
I photoshoped the lines in for reference from my dyno yesterday. But it seems that the only time that I go over 14 AFR is from 4600 RPM to 5600RPM. Should I be near a constant 13:1 AFR at all times or what on a N/A engine? Or do I risk detonation and engine knock if I leave it as is? I'm a newb when it comes to tuning...
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You made power up until where the mixture is currently set at. Some motors like 13:1.1 some like 13:5.1, it all depends on the engine, and what numbers the dyno generates after each adjustment. Here is some basic info pulled from Hondata's tech area to shed some light. The air/fuel mixture is expressed either as the ratio of air to fuel vapor or as a lambda value. The lambda value is derived from the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio, which is the chemically correct ratio of air to fuel for complete combustion to take place. The stoichiometric ratio is 14.7:1
In general it is best to tune the mixture close to stoichiometric(14:7.1) up to moderate engine loads for engines using catalytic converters and running in closed loop. This will keep the long term mixture adjustment from altering the mixture at points in the fuel tables where the ECU is not running in closed loop.
From moderate load to atmospheric pressure the mixture can be made progressively richer for increased power, cooler running and less chance of damaging the engine. Usually the air/fuel ratio which produces maximum power is from 12.5:1 - 13.5:1, but this varies with engine type.
In general it is best to tune the mixture close to stoichiometric(14:7.1) up to moderate engine loads for engines using catalytic converters and running in closed loop. This will keep the long term mixture adjustment from altering the mixture at points in the fuel tables where the ECU is not running in closed loop.
From moderate load to atmospheric pressure the mixture can be made progressively richer for increased power, cooler running and less chance of damaging the engine. Usually the air/fuel ratio which produces maximum power is from 12.5:1 - 13.5:1, but this varies with engine type.
In your graph above your highest blue line is 15:0.1. 14:7.1 would be slightly below that. The AFR gets no where close.
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DYNO TUNING/CUSTOM FAB/METAL POLISHING & PORTING/ENGINE SWAPS
CHIPPING & SOCKETING/ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING/WIRING
CHIPPING & SOCKETING/ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING/WIRING
Thread Starter
I Am A One Man Wolf Pack.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,241
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^ Thanks! That explains it. I apologize for the confusion. I had my motorcycle tuned months ago and I thought that my car's AFR on my dyno sheet would mimic my bike's. (Straight line instead of a roller coaster lol)
Anyways thanks again and I will be back once I get my cams installed!
Anyways thanks again and I will be back once I get my cams installed!
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