nice little nitrous FAQ I wrote
Here is a FAQ I made dont worry im not a nitrous dipshit i have actually installed a good amount of kits around here.
Nitrous releases extra air molecules at 572 degrees. Since it realeses extra air you have to compenstate for that by adding extra fuel.
1) Dry kit- adds nitrous into the intake pipe and then adds extra fuel pressure for pressure created when the nitrous is flowing. All dry kits except for Venom adds the pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. The Venom kit adds fuel by connecting a wire to each injector harness and pulsing the injectors for longer time. Dry kit nozzle mounting really doesnt matter but I would stay less then 6 from the throttle body.
2) Wet kit- works just like the dry but there is an extra solenoid that is used for fuel. With the fuel solemoid the fuel system (typically the fuel rail) is tapped to recieve this fuel. The fuel and nitrous are pumped thru a nozzle that looks like a Y. Wet kits have the same concept as dry it is mainly prerference. Wet kits need to be close to the throttle body no more then 4-5 away.
3) Direct port/Plate kit- Direct port and plate kits are among the most efficient ways to run nitrous on a honda. On a direct port kit you have the same concept/nozzle as the wet kit but there are 4 of them one in each intake runner (the area between the intake plentium and the head tube like areas). The usual minimum shot for a direct port kit is 80-90 shot. All direct port kits must be custom made to fit. Plate kits are premade plates that bolt between the intake manifold and the head. Plate kits are limited to the amount of cars they are made for. Plate kits are realtively easy to install.
How much of a shot can I run on my car?
The main restrictions to this are compression ratio and the condition of the motor. The two basic tests to see if the motor is in good shape are a compression and leak down test. I am very conservative to my customers and what I recommend. I would rather see a person with 10 less horsepower and an intact motor. If the motor as a lower compression motor (accords b18bs etc) then I would recommend no more then a 65 shot with just running colder plugs. As for higher compression motors such as B18cs H22as I wouldnt recommend over a 65 shot with extensive fuel and ignition upgrades.
What upgrades to I need for my motor?
The following is a list of what I recommend in order of importance.
1) Colder plugs. I personally like zex plugs but if you plan to run NGK autolite etc then go around 2 heat ranges cooler.
2) Retard the timing. On OBD1 cars (pre 96) this is easy simply get a timing gun and retard the distributor 2 degrees for 50-65 shot 3 for 70-85 shot 4 for 90-105 shot and so on. On OBD2 cars this is harder. You cannot simply turn the distributor and retard the timing there has to be a service connector to do so. I beileve this is a bad way to do it since you throw the ECU into loop mode. The correct way would be listed in number 4.
3) Purge kit. Purge kits give you a better off the line take off by clearing out warm nitrous and air bubbles. The puge kit also acts as a safety so when you shut the bottle off you can release all the pressure out of the line this will save the life of your solenoids.
4) Fuel pressure regulator and pressure guage. B&M kits are good investments and they are cheap. Adding more fuel pressure will give you better fuel flow.
5) Ignition. MSD blaster coil cap converter and ignition box. I prefer the MSD 6 digital +. This ignition comes with an extra wire and is tapped into your switch 12volt source. When the switch is activated the ignition picks up this signal and retards the timing for you.
6) Larger injectors- this also adds to your increased fuel flow.
After these you can go lower compression pistion/rod combos block guards re sleeving better clutches whatever you pocket can handle. With the more precautions you take the more nitrous you can run and the safer you will be.
How long can I run Nitrous?
Typically you want to run it after 3500 RPMS and for no more then 10-14 seconds at a time. Also it is not a good idea to run nitrous to top speed or in you top gears
How is it activated?
Zex kits use the TPS signal voltage to activate the solenoid after the arming switch is activated. Venom works the same way but the preprogrammed computer turns the nitrous on for you at whatever RPM you programmed it as. This I believe is the most accurately activating kits on the market. Then the majority of the group uses a microswitch to activate. The major problem with microswitches is that they are sometimes hard to mount and get the perfect angle for activation.
what kit is good for me?
Dry kits are just fine for applications to a 65 shot up to 75 get a wet kit and if you plan to run over a 75 shot get a plate or direct port kit.
Hope this helps reduce repeated questions. Also if I left anything out let me know. Any feedback would be great!
Nitrous releases extra air molecules at 572 degrees. Since it realeses extra air you have to compenstate for that by adding extra fuel.
1) Dry kit- adds nitrous into the intake pipe and then adds extra fuel pressure for pressure created when the nitrous is flowing. All dry kits except for Venom adds the pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. The Venom kit adds fuel by connecting a wire to each injector harness and pulsing the injectors for longer time. Dry kit nozzle mounting really doesnt matter but I would stay less then 6 from the throttle body.
2) Wet kit- works just like the dry but there is an extra solenoid that is used for fuel. With the fuel solemoid the fuel system (typically the fuel rail) is tapped to recieve this fuel. The fuel and nitrous are pumped thru a nozzle that looks like a Y. Wet kits have the same concept as dry it is mainly prerference. Wet kits need to be close to the throttle body no more then 4-5 away.
3) Direct port/Plate kit- Direct port and plate kits are among the most efficient ways to run nitrous on a honda. On a direct port kit you have the same concept/nozzle as the wet kit but there are 4 of them one in each intake runner (the area between the intake plentium and the head tube like areas). The usual minimum shot for a direct port kit is 80-90 shot. All direct port kits must be custom made to fit. Plate kits are premade plates that bolt between the intake manifold and the head. Plate kits are limited to the amount of cars they are made for. Plate kits are realtively easy to install.
How much of a shot can I run on my car?
The main restrictions to this are compression ratio and the condition of the motor. The two basic tests to see if the motor is in good shape are a compression and leak down test. I am very conservative to my customers and what I recommend. I would rather see a person with 10 less horsepower and an intact motor. If the motor as a lower compression motor (accords b18bs etc) then I would recommend no more then a 65 shot with just running colder plugs. As for higher compression motors such as B18cs H22as I wouldnt recommend over a 65 shot with extensive fuel and ignition upgrades.
What upgrades to I need for my motor?
The following is a list of what I recommend in order of importance.
1) Colder plugs. I personally like zex plugs but if you plan to run NGK autolite etc then go around 2 heat ranges cooler.
2) Retard the timing. On OBD1 cars (pre 96) this is easy simply get a timing gun and retard the distributor 2 degrees for 50-65 shot 3 for 70-85 shot 4 for 90-105 shot and so on. On OBD2 cars this is harder. You cannot simply turn the distributor and retard the timing there has to be a service connector to do so. I beileve this is a bad way to do it since you throw the ECU into loop mode. The correct way would be listed in number 4.
3) Purge kit. Purge kits give you a better off the line take off by clearing out warm nitrous and air bubbles. The puge kit also acts as a safety so when you shut the bottle off you can release all the pressure out of the line this will save the life of your solenoids.
4) Fuel pressure regulator and pressure guage. B&M kits are good investments and they are cheap. Adding more fuel pressure will give you better fuel flow.
5) Ignition. MSD blaster coil cap converter and ignition box. I prefer the MSD 6 digital +. This ignition comes with an extra wire and is tapped into your switch 12volt source. When the switch is activated the ignition picks up this signal and retards the timing for you.
6) Larger injectors- this also adds to your increased fuel flow.
After these you can go lower compression pistion/rod combos block guards re sleeving better clutches whatever you pocket can handle. With the more precautions you take the more nitrous you can run and the safer you will be.
How long can I run Nitrous?
Typically you want to run it after 3500 RPMS and for no more then 10-14 seconds at a time. Also it is not a good idea to run nitrous to top speed or in you top gears
How is it activated?
Zex kits use the TPS signal voltage to activate the solenoid after the arming switch is activated. Venom works the same way but the preprogrammed computer turns the nitrous on for you at whatever RPM you programmed it as. This I believe is the most accurately activating kits on the market. Then the majority of the group uses a microswitch to activate. The major problem with microswitches is that they are sometimes hard to mount and get the perfect angle for activation.
what kit is good for me?
Dry kits are just fine for applications to a 65 shot up to 75 get a wet kit and if you plan to run over a 75 shot get a plate or direct port kit.
Hope this helps reduce repeated questions. Also if I left anything out let me know. Any feedback would be great!
__________________
http://www.floridaracing.org

Editor - Stangtv.com - Dragzine.com
2011 Mustang GT Premium 6-speed manual Sterling Gray Metallic - New Project Car
SCT SF3 - FRPP Adjustable Handling Pack - Vortech 597 RWHP 476 lb/ft - 7.5 PSI
1965 Mustang - Blow thru Dart SBF 427ci with a Paxton NOVI-2500
Hydraulic roller, 91 octane, 1030HP
http://www.floridaracing.org

Editor - Stangtv.com - Dragzine.com
2011 Mustang GT Premium 6-speed manual Sterling Gray Metallic - New Project Car
SCT SF3 - FRPP Adjustable Handling Pack - Vortech 597 RWHP 476 lb/ft - 7.5 PSI
1965 Mustang - Blow thru Dart SBF 427ci with a Paxton NOVI-2500
Hydraulic roller, 91 octane, 1030HP
good tips for imports..... nitrous is very safe as long as you have it tuned properly----timingfuel amountfuel quality(octane)and proper spark and engine heat......
__________________
200 points away from a 300
200 points away from a 300


