kender

I just installed an apexi turbo timer on my car today and everything works except I have some confusion about the a/f reading


what should I be seeing as far as o2 sensor voltage?

what numbers for a/f are good? it uses 20 as a max and 10 as a min but what means rich and what means lean? the instructions just confuse me even more.

thanks for the info

Solar Specialist

That only uses your stock O2 sensor anyways, so its not too helpful really. But to be honest I never knew what form the reading is in anyways myself. Hopefully someone else knows though.

kender

the manual says the o2 voltage on most sensors is between .1 volts an 1 volt and the closer to 1volt the leaner it is. it also says the display will show in milivolts so 400 would be .4 volts.

the problem is my display says 4.somthing volts.

also for the actual a/f reading all i get are --- and that is supposed to mean the o2 is not warmed up. I have driven it from riverview to mlk and i75 ( about 20 miles ), the engine heats up fine and the exhaust is heating up as it should but I still get ---.

I know the connection is good because i get a voltage reading.

the car runs fine and i may just say fuck it until I convert to obd1 and get the 4 wire o2.

Solar Specialist

I believe mine would read like 2.xx or something alot of times. I never use it anyways, I go by my EGT gauge.

You live in Riverview? What kind of car is this on? The CRX? You slapped a turbo on it?

kender

yeah its the crx, and I will be getting a egt. I mainly got the timer for just that a timer but figured it would be a good backup or indicator if the egt acted up.


I do not have the turbo on it YET. I am getting together the last few parts so I have started to put on some things that I have to get it ready and to make less work for ss when I get them to install it.

I still need everything for the obd0 -obd1 conversion ( dizzy, o2, p28, harness), hondata s200 w/boost option ( of course), and the egt and fuel pressure gauge. I still need a few odds and ends like the flange for the wastegate outlet to the downpipe so it goes through the exhaust, and a thin fan for the radiator( like $40 at pep boys, not fal but at least oem level. I figured since I am swapping to a 92 civic all aluminum radiator that is thicker than stock I should not need a high performance fan like fal until I go higher than 12 psi)

I am kinda proud of the setup though for the price and quality, and seeing how this is my first project of this magnatude and I am learning as I go I think it will be good.

on the safe side I will have the hondata programmed with the boost limiter at 12.5 psi just in case the Tial .4 bar spring in the 38mm wastegate fails ( sure ), also I will be using a blitz sbc id boost controller set to a limit of 11.5 and will drop to about 9psi if the limit is hit. rev limiter bumped up to 8200 so the p28 ecu will match the jdm b16 limit.

some of it is redundant and a little paranoid having a backup for the backup but it is my get to work and home car so I don't need to blow the motor.

I am also keeping a margin for upgrades later so that I dont have to replace things like the intercooler or injectors or ....turbo, because I went to the limit of just what I need NOW.

n e ways thanks for the input and if anyone else can shed some light please do.

Slash

I wouldnt really use it for tuning..... only use a wideband for that sorta stuff..

kender

I don't plan on tuning it myself but I still want to keep an eye on things so that I know if something may be going wrong before the motor blows, about the same time the idiot lights come on.

I know the wideband is used for tuning but is that something you can run on your car as normal also?

Solar Specialist

Yes it is but the cost quite a bit. Would be great if every car could have one. But there are DIY ones that are quite a bit less.

kender

is it just the o2 sensor or is it sensor, gauge and all

Solar Specialist

http://www.widebando2.com/

http://www.techedge.com.au/