Some of you guys are wrong... real wrong

EGT is worthless, it tells you how hott you are... thats it. What makes it worse, is it tells you how hot you WERE 2 seconds ago... Its like "Hey, you hit 1680*F back there... oh and by the way, your #4 piston is melted.... " thats what they say. You cant tune reliably on an EGT guage, there are too many variables. I know too many people who have blown up supras, scoobies, RX7's and DSM's cuz their EGT's SAID they were at an acceptable temperature... but something went wrong and dont know what happend

the GReddy "Wide Band" O2 guage is not wide band. its only a 4 wire sensor... its a "medium Band" at best, if not simply a "Narrow Band". In order to be a REAL UEGO Wideband guage, you need to have AT LEAST 5 wires, if not more. the GReddy "wide band" is a analog-style version of the Autometer A/F-Blinky-ricer guage. Narrowand only works on 0-1v and does not give you enough precision, there simply not enough steps between 0 and 1 volts to register an accurate A/F readin, unlike the 0-5v: there are 5 times as many steps and can give you a more accurate reading.

Its like the difference between a 12:1 reading and a 12.35:1 ratio, know what i mean?

A Blinky A/F guage is worthless... it basically just tells you "hey your rich" or "Hey, youre lean" but it doesnt say if your 11:1 rich or 12.5:1 rich... get what im sayin? half-a-point makes a HUGE difference.

Ryde has got a handle on things, especially when it comes to FC's: one of THE most important aspects of monitoring a Rotary is the coolant temp. If they get too hot, even ONCE, youre toast and need new O-rings.

youre gonna run a speedo, tach, and water temp guage? or your going to run boost, oil pressure and EGT?

Lets hear some input as to why youd select these guages over the others. I just put a GReddy 52mm 1.5Bar boost guage in my supra cuz my stocker is not even mechanical... its an electrical that is actuated by the Airflow signal from the ECU and is not accurate at ALL... the factory boost guage simply lets you know IF you are boosting, but not how MUCH... see my problem was, me smoking an LS1 camaro and my boost guage TELLING me i was running over 8psi.. when i put in my GReddy guage, it said i was only running ~0.5Bar.... and im like WTF, peice of shit stocker.

seriously...

 

Just buy AEM.Then you have all you functions on laptop and true wideband O2. Then the only gauge you are missing is your clock so you know what time it is.

 

AEM is ghey... its a cheap rip-off of the Pro-EFI system that has been around for YEARS... and is better than the AEM-version of it.

I had a friend who put a Built H22A into his 99 Accord 5speed w/ a 60-1 T3/T4... it took him FOREVER to install it... and 2 hours to just toggle the fuel pump on and OFF... yea... AEM is better

If youre going thru all the Hassle... you should run a Hondata if you have a Honda... its tried and true. why try to reinvent the wheel and one-up the next guy. go with what works, trust me.

and you can get a DIY-WB02... a full Laboratory-grade UEGO Wideband setup for ~$450, including a LED Numerical Display (think, huge calculator screen w/ Red numbers) and it reads into the tenths... 13.8:1 ?

 

Thats what i'll do run hondata so i can sit on the dyno burning chips all day.You can update AEM anytime.Hondata was the shit years ago get with the program it's 2003 where have you been!

 

I guess I am simple. I will be using a boost and egt gauge (two gauges in one).

 

Sorry to break it to you, but the EGT does just what i said: delayed reaction and only tells you AFTER the fact. it doesnt tell you that you WILL blow up your engine... it tells you that you ALREADY did. At 7000 rpm, each cylinder is firing ~15 times each second. and when your probe is X-distance from the cylinder, and the nature of the Probe itself causes a substantial delay to reaction of the needle on the guage. i prefer real-time. an EGT is actually the 4th most important aspect to monitor and tune by.

when an UEGO sensor is installed, it is far downstream of the engine, but, there is more forwarning and a little more lee-way. Id say that the UEGO WB02 values are the 3rd most important factor to consider. at least this guage can react quickly due to the electrical signal

the 2nd most important factor to consider when tuning is total ignition timing advance. the amount of total timing will vary from car to car. So its your job to know how much is too much. Like the DSM, 16*total on WOT is accetpable during Initial WOT tip-in and you want to shoot for 21*-22* total timing @ 7500RPM WOT.

the 1st most important factor is the knock sum... if you have a way of monitoring it. DSM's do I prefer to tune for a 0-3 knock sum, I beleive its measured Per second.

but, unfortuantly, not everyone can tune by ignition timing advance and knock counts... so they have to resort to secondary methods such as A/F ratios and EGT's.

btw, no one was saying to tune by coolant. I was saying that the coolant temp is VERY important on a Rotary motor, they are more sensative to overheating than any other car out there. So on a Rotary application, i would rank a race-quality coolant temp guage right up tehre w/ the rest of those tuning guages.

Oh, and theres no need to be rude or vulgar about this, we are having a nice mentally stimulating conversation... so calm the fuck down and watch your fuckin mouth

EDIT: i forgot to mention... if anyone thinks they can afford >5 hours of dyno tuning, they can afford a UEGO O2 setup. tahts my justification: "do i spend $125 per hour on the dyno, or do i spend $450 upfront and have access to dyno-quality tuning whenever i go for a ride???" Hmm, ill squander the money upfront and be able to tune at my whim later on down the road and get more for my moneys worth.