First time painting a car! Questions that need answers!
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First time painting a car! Questions that need answers!
I am getting ready to paint my eg civic hatch, I have a full size commercial booth to use and all the necessary tools. My first question is... How much paint will I need to buy? I already know which paint I'm purchasing and everything, just need to know the amount. Also can anyone point me in the direction of a good first timer tutorial?
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1. Amount of paint varies depending on the brand of paint. Some paint covers better than other.
2. Another factor is the color, some colors are more transparent than others. Some colors require a ground coat (gray,white) for more even results, especially if you have bodywork done and if you want to make sure you cover it well.
3. Another factor is if you are doing a color change. Which would require the door jambs, trunk jambs, (under hood), (under trunk), (in engine bay)
For example, if I were to buy paint to paint your car and no bodywork was done to it just sand and paint, and it was NOT a color change and your color was a metallic blue, I would buy BASF DIMONT paint and I would buy at LEAST 3 quarts (not reduced) to cover well. It's always good to have extra than not have enough. Also good to have extra for any future issues (accidents, dents, scratches, new parts)
Pricing varies as well depending on color. 1 quart of plain white may cost 50-80 each. VS 1 quart of red or yellow may cost 90-150.
I hope this helps... post here is you have any more questions
2. Another factor is the color, some colors are more transparent than others. Some colors require a ground coat (gray,white) for more even results, especially if you have bodywork done and if you want to make sure you cover it well.
3. Another factor is if you are doing a color change. Which would require the door jambs, trunk jambs, (under hood), (under trunk), (in engine bay)
For example, if I were to buy paint to paint your car and no bodywork was done to it just sand and paint, and it was NOT a color change and your color was a metallic blue, I would buy BASF DIMONT paint and I would buy at LEAST 3 quarts (not reduced) to cover well. It's always good to have extra than not have enough. Also good to have extra for any future issues (accidents, dents, scratches, new parts)
Pricing varies as well depending on color. 1 quart of plain white may cost 50-80 each. VS 1 quart of red or yellow may cost 90-150.
I hope this helps... post here is you have any more questions
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If this is your first time painting, I would not paint a car with it. I would practice at home on some fenders or bumpers. Trust me, your first time spraying is usually the worst, youll more likely see tons of runs etc
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Keep your pressure right for the guns your using,make sure your mix ratios are correct and proper flash times are allowed,be very neat and clean.Learn how to wetsand and buff.
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RIP Chester P.Anderson Jr.9/23/05 I love you dad,and miss you very much.
RIP Kevin"Slo SI" 9/13/06,we will miss you homie,time heals wounds but you will never be forgotten
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+1 to everything everyone else posted before me.
Also, if this is your first be preppared for your second. Like someone said earlier, first all overs are usually disastrous lol. Good luck man, post up results.
Also, if this is your first be preppared for your second. Like someone said earlier, first all overs are usually disastrous lol. Good luck man, post up results.
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Another point to focus on is the clear. Make sure you have the right clear for the job. At the dealership I worked at, we used DC5300 which is a cycle time reducing baking clear. I would use a slower reducer than everyone else UR50 and DH46 for hardener. Then I would NOT bake it at the usual high temperatures. I would keep it at 127-130 degrees. In doing this, with my 2-4 coats (depending on paint/car), I would eliminate alot (if not all) of the orange peel, solvent pop, potential to pool up and run that would show up on other's cars.....
When shooting clear, DO NOT try to cover it all perfect with the 1st coat. the 1st coat should be nice and even but not as heavy. The next coat should be a decently even coat throughout and make sure you got all the (hidden spots) as well. The next step can be your final coat if it looks good OR you can put another coat as long as you see that you are even and not running the clear. For the final coat, you want to spray evenly and just look for spots that were missed and then walk away. Again, make sure you material/air ratio is where it should be and your distance is where it should be. Move across at the right speed but not too fast or too slow.
When shooting clear, DO NOT try to cover it all perfect with the 1st coat. the 1st coat should be nice and even but not as heavy. The next coat should be a decently even coat throughout and make sure you got all the (hidden spots) as well. The next step can be your final coat if it looks good OR you can put another coat as long as you see that you are even and not running the clear. For the final coat, you want to spray evenly and just look for spots that were missed and then walk away. Again, make sure you material/air ratio is where it should be and your distance is where it should be. Move across at the right speed but not too fast or too slow.
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No you do not need to sand through! You can grab a 3m scuff pad and sand it till the clear coat is completely dull. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and then you can spray your base color right over, no need to primer.
Practice on some scrap fenders or bumper before you start to spray
Practice on some scrap fenders or bumper before you start to spray
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^ as he said. Never sand through unless necessary. You could find yourself in a heap of trouble if you're not sure. Sanding through to metal will require that you now Prime the areas where metal is exposed. Also, you could have paint shrinkage/improper adhesion/ bleed through just to name a few problems... Just remember shiny=no stick, so scuff all the shiny away without scarring the panel with sand scratches.... 3m Superfine Scuff pads are great as well...
