Come in painters: Need help
weezin the juice
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Come in painters: Need help
I am planning on redoing the plastics and tank on my bike. I'm going to do it in sections, but here is the kicker.
I'm going to sand it down with 600 till smooth, primer(probably just rattle can) then paint it matte white
I want to do some sharpie designing over it when I'm done.
I want to use silver and black sharpies but I will need to clear over it. I want to keep the matte white finish and I want to have a protector over the entire bike, but I need a clear coat that will not make the sharpie ink bleed or turn the matte white shiny. If you know of product please let me know. Appreciate it.
Cliff
I'm going to sand it down with 600 till smooth, primer(probably just rattle can) then paint it matte white
I want to do some sharpie designing over it when I'm done.
I want to use silver and black sharpies but I will need to clear over it. I want to keep the matte white finish and I want to have a protector over the entire bike, but I need a clear coat that will not make the sharpie ink bleed or turn the matte white shiny. If you know of product please let me know. Appreciate it.
Cliff
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thats a hard one cause if you use rattle can primer it better be self etching primer or something in the automotive field cause ive had a bunch of customers come to me with rattle canned cars and auto paint does not like it one bit, it will start lifting not to mention clogs sandpaper really easily...and also if u use sharpie and clear over it, it iwll definately bleed.if anything i would check out kustom shops hot rod flatz colors i believe they have white in three different glosses....go to TCPglobal.com and click on kustom shop and look for hot rod flatz... got anymore questions let me know!
-mike
-mike
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Well the tcpglobal.com product would work for the flat white but it does nothing to protect the sharpie art.
Also, I've got some experience with clearing over the sharpie art so I can tell you that it will bleed if you put the clear on too heavy.
Just dust a light coat and give it plenty of time to flash and then dust another light coat and again give it plenty of time to flash and then for the third coat you will be able to put a good heavy coat down if you like.
Anything other than this and it will run which will ruin all your hard work.
Also, most paint stores have flattening agents in stock that will allow you to flatten the clear coat to where it will still provide the protective finish of the clear coat but it will have the matte finish you desire.
Now be forewarned, and sanding/buffing/polishing/waxing etc. will cause the clear to regain some of it's shine/luster.
Also, I've got some experience with clearing over the sharpie art so I can tell you that it will bleed if you put the clear on too heavy.
Just dust a light coat and give it plenty of time to flash and then dust another light coat and again give it plenty of time to flash and then for the third coat you will be able to put a good heavy coat down if you like.
Anything other than this and it will run which will ruin all your hard work.
Also, most paint stores have flattening agents in stock that will allow you to flatten the clear coat to where it will still provide the protective finish of the clear coat but it will have the matte finish you desire.
Now be forewarned, and sanding/buffing/polishing/waxing etc. will cause the clear to regain some of it's shine/luster.
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weezin the juice
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Thanks for the help guys, just to help you out in helping me out here we go:
I will be using the etch primer, I've sprayed before and such, I'll use a heavier primer when I'm going over the entire thing, but since I'm going to be doing it in stages I want to be as resourceful as possible. I'm just using the rattle can to make sure the paint is all even, won't get into how the paint is now, but it's "cracked" and cleared heavily.
I was reading around and found that this product Eastwood Company: Search Results for diamond clear will do good against sharpies because it is a certain chemical which will cause it not to bleed or yellow or anything. Could you tell me if this is true? Also I see that they just have glosses, could be a problem.
So you think I should just use a regular clear(with flattening properties?), possible add a little more hardener the first couple go arounds and spray it "far away" and in very light coats with a longer flash time? LMK what you think of this, I am going to start sanding it soon, it's going to be a mess, this paint job is cool, but it's not my style...ughh
Cliff
I will be using the etch primer, I've sprayed before and such, I'll use a heavier primer when I'm going over the entire thing, but since I'm going to be doing it in stages I want to be as resourceful as possible. I'm just using the rattle can to make sure the paint is all even, won't get into how the paint is now, but it's "cracked" and cleared heavily.
I was reading around and found that this product Eastwood Company: Search Results for diamond clear will do good against sharpies because it is a certain chemical which will cause it not to bleed or yellow or anything. Could you tell me if this is true? Also I see that they just have glosses, could be a problem.
So you think I should just use a regular clear(with flattening properties?), possible add a little more hardener the first couple go arounds and spray it "far away" and in very light coats with a longer flash time? LMK what you think of this, I am going to start sanding it soon, it's going to be a mess, this paint job is cool, but it's not my style...ughh
Cliff
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JTPhotos - Sharpie Lamborghini Gallardo Photo Shoot - a set on Flickr
just ask the owner of this car and he should be able to let you know
just ask the owner of this car and he should be able to let you know
weezin the juice
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As far as I know, there is a plastic wrap around the entire car as seen here
You can see to the right side best of the symbol that is where the wrap ends.
Knowing this, I do not know if this wrap is on before or after the sharpie, but could you wrap over sharpie? I know a lubricant has to be applied and squeegied out to make sure there are no bubbles, but I don't know if that spray or anything will hurt the sharpie. I know this is a weird topic and I appreciate any responses. You are supporting something that not many people are willing to try, I just want to preserve it!
You can see to the right side best of the symbol that is where the wrap ends.
Knowing this, I do not know if this wrap is on before or after the sharpie, but could you wrap over sharpie? I know a lubricant has to be applied and squeegied out to make sure there are no bubbles, but I don't know if that spray or anything will hurt the sharpie. I know this is a weird topic and I appreciate any responses. You are supporting something that not many people are willing to try, I just want to preserve it!
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weezin the juice
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I just called a guy at a car wrapping place and they said that they usually don't do bikes because of the shapes and detail involved. Wow this totally blows haha. I don't even know a direction to take with this because I no longer know who to call or ask for advice. Appreciate anything else you can throw my way though. I'm determined to do this somehow.
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https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/a...cle-wraps.html
Guaranteed this guy can wrap your bike in some kind of clear protectant.
Guaranteed this guy can wrap your bike in some kind of clear protectant.
