Got 99 probs and my battery relocation is one
Basically I bought a nice coupe a while ago with a haggard ka-t setup. I pulled it all apart and got it put back together NA for now. Well the car had the battery relocated to the trunk. I got everything put back together today and go to start it and I'm getting 0 power. No headlights, no dash lights, nothing. It's like the battery isn't even connected. I know the battery cable is good going from the engine bay to the battery, ground from the battery to chassis is good. The ground cable in the engine bay is bolted to the battery tray, then intake mani but the oem terminal is just chilling. There are also 2 aftermarket wires coming off the positive terminal connector that are maybe a few inches long. One was for an amp the po had in the car, and the other I can't recall. I'm sure I cut it off of something though. The car started up everytime when I bought it and had no issues. I'll grab some pictures in a second.
Hmm some good ideas.
Yes the Stock ground terminal is there. I'm sure I could unwrap some tape and put a positive terminal back in the factory location.
I'm not sure the battery is good since it's been sitting around 3 months
Because of that^, I did use jumper cables to the car I've been dailying the past 3 months so I know it's not that.
I don't think it has anything to do with the ignition switch since the lights don't even work.
Since it'll be NA for a while I'll try by passing the relocation all together and get a positive terminal back in the engine bay and hopefully that should work.
I've also heard to check all my grounds. I have today and tomorrow off so I should have time to get it done finally.
Yes the Stock ground terminal is there. I'm sure I could unwrap some tape and put a positive terminal back in the factory location.
I'm not sure the battery is good since it's been sitting around 3 months
Because of that^, I did use jumper cables to the car I've been dailying the past 3 months so I know it's not that.
I don't think it has anything to do with the ignition switch since the lights don't even work.
Since it'll be NA for a while I'll try by passing the relocation all together and get a positive terminal back in the engine bay and hopefully that should work.
I've also heard to check all my grounds. I have today and tomorrow off so I should have time to get it done finally.
bypass the relocation and get some good power in there and see what gets power.
There are probably some blown fuses, but something has to be getting power, the hard part is figuring out where the power stops. Could be something dumb like the main ground is loose. Or it could be something annoying like bad relays.
and you can't rule out the possibility that you just have a whole bunch of stuff that has gone bad all at once.
I just got done working through one of those problems. a/c wouldn't work, radio wouldn't work, dash lights wouldn't come on, fog lights wouldn't work, and a few other things. Turns out, each one of them had a separate cause.
Usually this isn't the case. So when you hear hooves, think Horses, not Zebras. Just keep the Zebras in the back of your mind as you start ruling out the horses.
There are probably some blown fuses, but something has to be getting power, the hard part is figuring out where the power stops. Could be something dumb like the main ground is loose. Or it could be something annoying like bad relays.
and you can't rule out the possibility that you just have a whole bunch of stuff that has gone bad all at once.
I just got done working through one of those problems. a/c wouldn't work, radio wouldn't work, dash lights wouldn't come on, fog lights wouldn't work, and a few other things. Turns out, each one of them had a separate cause.
Usually this isn't the case. So when you hear hooves, think Horses, not Zebras. Just keep the Zebras in the back of your mind as you start ruling out the horses.
Make sure youre getting both parts of the positive cable power. OEM splits into two connectors that plug into the positive battery terminal...easy to forget one, then half the car has no power...
Oh, and get a damn multimeter! Harbor Freight...$3-$8 depending on sales..
Oh, and get a damn multimeter! Harbor Freight...$3-$8 depending on sales..
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bypass the relocation (move battery to the bay for the test) and see if your problems are still there
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Sullivan Racing LLC
352-665-2496-Tom
SullivanRacing06@aol.com
my lag is your courtesy head start
ATTENTION.... installing a head gasket, head studs or pistons and rods in your otherwise STOCK engine dose not make it a "built" engine! stop listing you cars for sale saying they are built when its not!!
Sullivan Racing LLC
352-665-2496-Tom
SullivanRacing06@aol.com
my lag is your courtesy head start
ATTENTION.... installing a head gasket, head studs or pistons and rods in your otherwise STOCK engine dose not make it a "built" engine! stop listing you cars for sale saying they are built when its not!!
I took care of it. When i put the battery back in the bay i noticed one wire that was supposed to go from the little red box on the oem terminal to the starter wire/battery cable got cut. The car is up and running now.


