riveting tale, bro.

I said "process of elimination".
usually what you do if you have no clue what the problem is,
the best bet for someone who isn't a mechanic and is a "do it yourself" type person.

I also said buying parts "can be" expensive when trying to diagnose problems on your own.
I didn't tell him to go out and buy any specific parts at all, super coupe only recommended changing fuel filter, cap and rotor..

bro if you can't afford those parts,you better apply at a new job if you even have one.

your novel didn't come up with anything different then what we said the maf , torque converter already brought up, oh, you said intake which is connected to the maf and change the fluid in the trans like that would make a loss of power...

breaking it all down when your really have no fucking clue how to comprehend anything, your trying to twist my words into some bullshit i didn't say, nice try though. guys like you are awesome, mister-know-it-all, you know how to copy and paste some fucking link on auto trans, fucking nerd. hahaha

 

First of all, to Empire, thanks for the help. Some of the things you mentioned I have already thought about, the others I will seriously consider. I'm not a mechanically inclined dude, but once I tear into something, nine times out of ten I can get it back together the right way. Once again, thanks for the help.

Second of all, to Kung, thanks for the little bit of help you offered, but you kinda made yourself look like an ass when questioning whether I can afford to buy parts or not. You don't know my financial situation (just to give you some insight, I only have a mortgage and own three cars (own them, not the bank owning them)). And I make pretty close to $75,000 a year as an airborne communications operator for the Air Force. Not to mention that I get to travel around the world on a Gulfstream G-5 while the only G anything that you'll ever know anything about is the one mentioned in that stupid ass G-6 song. So, shithead, I do have a job (actually I have almost 20 yrs at my job) and I don't think that I need to worry about applying for a new one anytime soon. Before you open your mouth about something you know nothing about, maybe you should have your mouth/brain disconnect switch fixed. Maybe you can get Empire to walk you through that one smart guy. Lastly, like I mentioned before, this is the 3rd 240 I have owned, but the first auto transmission 240. Those of you that gave worthwhile and helpful advice, thanks!

 

another riveting tale but I was talking to empire, lol.

 

looks like English is still kicking your ass.

you said Tell me how that doesn't mean buying a bunch of unrelated parts, throwing them at the car and seeing which one solves the problem?


It doesn't have anything to do with being able to afford the parts or not.
1) throwing random parts at your car isn't a status symbol. Maybe in the retard 240 world the guy with the newest parts is the coolest, but not in the real world.
2) Why do parts that may be perfectly good need to be replaced? Just makes you look like an total idiot when you are replacing parts that don't even have anything to do with your problem.

process of elimination isn't throwing parts at it til it is fixed. Process of elimination is looking at the symptoms and eliminating any possibilities that don't produce those symptoms, BEFORE you buy any parts.
I could be wrong, but I would imagine the non-mechanic, do it yourself person would want to get the problem fixed the first time, and not spent money and more importantly time under the hood, changing out parts that don't have anything to do with the problem.


If you could read, you would have found that my "Novel" did come up with something different. It negated all of the stupid suggestions and brought it down to the MAF sensor plug being the possible issue. Even explained why that is more than likely the issue.
And yes, if you know anything about automatic transmissions, poor fluid condition can cause a dramatic loss of power. It can cause massive slippage issues due to over heating, which could feel like a loss of power. It can also cause the torque converter to cycle through lock up due to excessive heat. Bad fluid can cause the TCM to hang onto gears, and not shift properly, and try to lock the clutches up in the wrong times. If the fluid is really bad, it could even cause the TCM to go into limp mode, which causes all sorts of symptoms when you are trying to drive the car down the road.
Typically, the torque converter isn't the problem. It is more often than not due to bad fluid.
Since the OP mentioned the tranny hanging onto second gear for a long time, and since he thought that it might be a transmission issue to begin with, it would have been smart to point him into the right direction regarding fluid issues.

And since shits like you hate "novels" i decided that instead of typing all of the transmission information out that is contained within that link, I thought I'd save you all a page of reading and just post the link.
Still can't wrap my head around how that makes me a "nerd"
I guess doing research to not only learn the knowledge, but be able to understand it makes someone a nerd.

Also can't wrap my head around how I'm the one that can't doesn't have a "fucking clue how to comprehend anything" when I am the one that was able to break it all the way down, eliminate the stupid suggestions, explain why they were stupid suggestions, get the relevant info out of the first post that people like you seemed to have blindly missed, make and explain an actual valid possibility and provide additional information that might just be useful for the OP.
I didn't have to twist anything around. You said it. It is right there, clear as day. "it can be expensive buying all these parts but that's what you gotta do to diagnose the problems" How does anyone have to twist that around to mean anything but buy a bunch of parts and keep throwing money at it until the problem gets fixed?
If that isn't what you meant, then please, explain what it is exactly that you intended to relay on with that statement.

I know I'm pretty awesome, glad you think so too.

 

Forgot to mention that I do have the intake strapped down properly with brackets that came with the intake kit. So, the intake isn't just secured at the throttle body. Also, I cleaned the MAF element a few weeks ago with some electrical cleaner. The reason that I replaced the plugs that were in the car when I bought it is because they were fouled. Not to mention that the jackass who had the car before me used 4 prong plugs. And I figured that a good set of NGK plug wires couldn't hurt. I have found that the single prong NGK Iridium plugs have worked best in my cars (all stock KA engines). I've never had a turbo 240, maybe once I get these issues worked out I can start down that road. All the stuff that I've done to the car was stuff I've done myself. My so-called broke, dumb, hick ass can even change out a set of brakes! Hope to maybe see you dudes around town sometime! Thanks again.

 

LMAO at all of this.
WOW.

Anyways. I said fuel filter because this happened to me before on my auto s14. It was obviously getting clogged causing loss of fuel pressure and stumbling here and there. On my other 5 speed s14 my fuel pump I guess was going out, changed it and it was all good. On my 5 speed s13 fuel pump sock was so nasty it was having the exact problem as he was describing.

Sure there are tools to check certain things but seriously what is a few bucks on parts that need to be changed on a 17 yr old car anyways!!!!

Fuel sock $8
Dizzy cap $5
Dizzy rotor $3
Working fuel pump used $10

As for the shifting issue. I would say fluid, maybe lines are getting clogged. There is also a shift sensor on your driver side fender well in the engine compartment (rectangle silver) I cut mine in my auto s14 caused it to stay in gear longer and shift harsh from 1-2.

 

I may have found part of the problem with my car. When I bought the car a few months ago, I noticed that the EGR tube (aluminum tube that runs from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold) was cut near the exhaust manifold. What I didn't notice until yesterday is that the end of the tube coming off the exhaust manifold was crimped (maybe to block off?) and there is about a 6 inch section of the tube missing. I'd like to kill the jackass who thought it was a good idea to do this. Now I'm pretty sure that's why I have a CEL! Anyways, I went to Courtesy Nissan this morning and bought a new EGR tube ($53) and will fix this problem when I get it. I also bought some Lucas Transmission Fix and dumped it in the trans dipstick hole. Trans fluid is still red, so it might have been changed just before I bought the car. Changing engine oil tomorrow and will probably use some sort of synthetic blend to see how the engine runs after that. My last S14, I ran Mobil 1 Synthetic with a Mobil 1 filter. Little bit of work to do this weekend.

 

New EGR tube installed and new WIX fuel filter (Z32) installed. Car seems to be running a little better now and not as rough. Will know better in the morning when I get it on the highway to go to MacDill tomorrow. The EGR tube was a chore to get the intake manifold side off. I used a little Liquid Wrench and the thing came right off after a few turns. Nice to have the engine completely sealed up. Hopefully better gas mileage than before. Later!

 

good job , process of elemanation !

 

Yeah, thanks for the props, but something is still wrong. I thought I had the problem fixed with putting in the new EGR tube. Now the car feels like it is trying to stall while I'm driving it. I'm at a loss right now, but am thinking of possibly changing cap/rotor and maybe a new MAF? If I could just get the damn thing to run great instead of ok. Even thinking of dropping it at Z-Fever and letting them take a look at it. The only time I have to do anything with the car is mostly at night and after working al day long, I don't feel like screwing around with fixing cars. Engine runs strong (seems like it), but is just trying to stall once in a while. Any further suggestions?