Thank you, i feel like this cat when you answer my q's ;]

 

shave a few centimeters off the block
totally deck the head
port and polish the ports to the extreme
oversized, titanium everything in the head
sleeve the cylinders
stupid aggressive cams
custom, forged chromoly lightweight, high compression pistons
custom, forged, shortened rods (to match the now lower deck height)
custom, forged, lightweight, completely counter balanced crank
dry sump
meth injection
sequential turbos
air-water intercooler
injectors measured in pounds
dual stage nos
reinforced drivetrain
tube chassis
idle set at 2K
boost set at 50+ psi


..... you won't

 

Racecar on steroids? Might as well buy a GTR

 

^lol.

If youre on a budget, soak the head or whatever....disassemble and change the stem seals, clean the shit out of the valve stems (they will be like 2mm thicker from buildup lol....but be careful dont scratch them..) and go ahead and lap the valves. You can get the lapping tool at Harbor Freight...lapping compound at advance...and you can make a valve spring removal tool out of the 8" c-clamp from HF combined with a windowed o2 sensor socket.

 

Yeah, my personal experience with Harbor Freight's specialty tools is shitty. All their tools break on me and I learned the hard way not to cheap out on tools cause it ended up costing me more in the longrun. Thats why I have a ultimate toolset with Craftsman and Snap-On tools in it.

 

do all this shit.

seriously.

 

I chuckled pretty hard

 

Well, I'm not on a budget... The owner of the motor is.. That being said 2k idle and forged buttplugs is not an option Lmao. When I crack open the 2j I'll give ya a call for them custom shorter rods haha. I wasn't planning on lapping them at all but it may very well happen now. Thanks for all the help. Maybe I'll make a small 'how to' for future reference.

 

Dude, I'm talking about a suction-cup on a stick, and a c-clamp. Not a torque wrench or an impact gun.

 

It's a ka, burn it .