Ignition issue...
Guys,
Im puzzled. I have an issue with the ignition (or ignition switch) of my s13 240sx. I've replace the switch 3 different times. The problem is that I will go the start the car and all the lights come on as usual (what you would consider normal operation), then when i make the final twist...nothing...just a click. No lights dim, nothing weird...just no start.
Previously I have just swapped the switch out...and that corrected the problem. Please take note that this happens over the period of months...not put in a switch and it pops in a day or two. I have a lifetime replace ignition from Advance Auto so it hasnt cost me any more $$...but its just frustrating.
Oddly, if I hard wire it, by-passing the switch, hot wiring the starter so to speak, it starts right up. But it starts up poorly. Ive discussed this with Empire, regarding a wire that tells the ECU to go to "start mode"...firing all injectors, but havent gone to the point where I install a switch with all the wiring needed to start as it should..instead I deal with it starting slow vs not starting at all.
I've checked the ignition wiring diagram for something that i may be over looking. But nothing jumps out at me. My battery has been relocated to the back but that was done after having this issue (mind you the lights dont dim, Driving lights dont flutter or anything, nor does the interior light -indicating a high draw or poor cranking AMPs for the battery. So i'm fairly confident that this is not caused by the relocation).
What do you think? Do I have a funky short? Replace the switch again?? Is it a grounding issue? Help please. And sorry for being so long winded. :\
-Royce
Im puzzled. I have an issue with the ignition (or ignition switch) of my s13 240sx. I've replace the switch 3 different times. The problem is that I will go the start the car and all the lights come on as usual (what you would consider normal operation), then when i make the final twist...nothing...just a click. No lights dim, nothing weird...just no start.
Previously I have just swapped the switch out...and that corrected the problem. Please take note that this happens over the period of months...not put in a switch and it pops in a day or two. I have a lifetime replace ignition from Advance Auto so it hasnt cost me any more $$...but its just frustrating.
Oddly, if I hard wire it, by-passing the switch, hot wiring the starter so to speak, it starts right up. But it starts up poorly. Ive discussed this with Empire, regarding a wire that tells the ECU to go to "start mode"...firing all injectors, but havent gone to the point where I install a switch with all the wiring needed to start as it should..instead I deal with it starting slow vs not starting at all.
I've checked the ignition wiring diagram for something that i may be over looking. But nothing jumps out at me. My battery has been relocated to the back but that was done after having this issue (mind you the lights dont dim, Driving lights dont flutter or anything, nor does the interior light -indicating a high draw or poor cranking AMPs for the battery. So i'm fairly confident that this is not caused by the relocation).
What do you think? Do I have a funky short? Replace the switch again?? Is it a grounding issue? Help please. And sorry for being so long winded. :\
-Royce
__________________
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
Nothing to do with fuses? maybe something grounding out? Also your car looks like the bat-mobile lol.
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1995 Emerald blue S14 (DAILY)
1996 Emerald blue S14 (Weekend car)
1995 Champagne S14 (trailer)
1993 black s13 convertible (beach cruiser)
1995 Emerald blue S14 (DAILY)
1996 Emerald blue S14 (Weekend car)
1995 Champagne S14 (trailer)
1993 black s13 convertible (beach cruiser)
Check the battery terminals and cables. When your relocate a battery that far you need larger gauge wires to carry the proper amount of power. Also when you say you go to start it and nothing happens, that could indicate a starter solenoid issue. The "starting wire" you're talking about is an orange wire that comes from the dash connector to the ecu. Its an orange wire and basically tells the ecu to cold start the engine. Mine was not hooked up when I got my car and I had no power coming from the dash connector orange wire so mine is on a switch from the battery (it needs 12V). The wire is orange on the ecu as well. Test if thats getting power. Hope some of this helps.
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...and then I wondered why I was on Stanceworks forums...
Originally Posted by PJ Prendergast
i went to a scrapyard in Kilcock today looking for my 180sx tail lights, no luck though 

...and then I wondered why I was on Stanceworks forums...
Mat - LOL @ the bat-mobile comment ...I need to post a better picture i guess...lol. Checked all the fuses...thought possibly a relay of some sort.
KendallH - you may have hit on the issue as a starter solenoid issue. But wouldnt i still have the starting issue wired direct if it was a solenoid?? I think i could get a starter to test that theory fairly easily. I will search for the Orange wire and see about wiring it into the switch i'm using now if I can source out this issue...Empire once said it was on the switch...I never checked the dash connector for the wire.
Chome - do you mean heavier guage ground? I did ground it @ the battery and 2 extra grounds from chassis to motor. I used wire supplied by a car audio shop that said it would be fine for the relocation...its not 0 awg...but its close.
Thanks for the feedback!!
KendallH - you may have hit on the issue as a starter solenoid issue. But wouldnt i still have the starting issue wired direct if it was a solenoid?? I think i could get a starter to test that theory fairly easily. I will search for the Orange wire and see about wiring it into the switch i'm using now if I can source out this issue...Empire once said it was on the switch...I never checked the dash connector for the wire.
Chome - do you mean heavier guage ground? I did ground it @ the battery and 2 extra grounds from chassis to motor. I used wire supplied by a car audio shop that said it would be fine for the relocation...its not 0 awg...but its close.
Thanks for the feedback!!
__________________
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
I mean instead of grounding the terminal that used to be connected to the battery to the chassis, then connecting the battery to the chassis in the trunk, that you should just run the original ground to the rear to the battery just like it used to be.



