SR20 cam selesction.
SLIDING SIDEWALL
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SR20 cam selesction.
Looking for advice on cams, and why you would pick either or, so i can decide which route to go. HKS Step 1 cams (256, 11.5mm lift) or BC Stage 1 cams (264, 12.06mm lift). The HKS cams run about $230 per side and the BC's are $312 for the pair. I want HKS for their known quality, but i've also heard BC is a good choice as well. Do i pay for Reassurance or not? Thanks
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Pritty sure your gonna have to degree bc cams when hks and tomei are drop in. Hks does make step 1's that use stock springs / exc... but $500 for 20 or so more top-end whp? Stock cams do fine upto around 350whp.
cams $500
springs/ret. $250
RAS $50-100
valve seals, gaskets, rvt, bleading lifters, keeping shims in order, time (time is money), exc...($$$) you're really bending over backwards unless your going for over 400+whp.
$1,500- $2,000 you could get a ve head setup.
cams $500
springs/ret. $250
RAS $50-100
valve seals, gaskets, rvt, bleading lifters, keeping shims in order, time (time is money), exc...($$$) you're really bending over backwards unless your going for over 400+whp.
$1,500- $2,000 you could get a ve head setup.
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Depends on the power goal, how high you want to rev it, driveability, etc.
I like the HKS step 1's in either 256 or 264 (or stagger). They drive great, drop right in, and make great power assuming your turbo will support it. I did HKS step 1's on both my previous motor and my brother's motor. Longfellow and Mewantkouki can tell you exactly how much ass those cars hauled on top of how great they drove. I like to install an upgraded single spring with them, even though they don't require them. That lets me bang a 7800-8000 limiter all day without issue. I would throw JWT S3 (non-M) and S4 into this conversation as well. When staying with a hydro lifter, it doesn't hurt to track down the blacktop/revised lifters with the larger inlet /smaller exit hole.
Before BC started making cams, no one had to degree anything, and everyone had the same experience. With the BC's, people were all over the place as far as power, and degreeing them was making huge power. I never cared to find out the hard way whether they were any good. Forum praise was limited to "they cheeep, dog" and "I gots camsss!"
Let me take exception to a few comments made so far....
- "stock cams are good to 350whp". Yes and no. If your exhaust side flows well, like a tubular manifold and the right T3, you can make decent power at high boost with the stock cams. I think someone went as high as 390whp on pump with stock cams and stock IM. If you're on a stock manifold and T25 flange, you're going to be stuck at 330-ish at 18psi because of the increased backpressure from the small manifold and small exhaust housing. It's that configuration that really wakes up with cams. From my experience, a 2871 car on 14psi and stock cams makes about 280-290whp. That car once we added HKS step1 264's made 340whp at 14psi on the same everything.
- Tommy's "solids or bust" comment. Solids are sweet, don't get me wrong. I did them a few times and loved them. 9000+ rpm rolling burnouts sound great! I always wanted to do the JWT S3M on solids, but never got a chance. I did the C1's on solids and HKS step3's as well. My ding against the solid setups was that hydro setups could be reliable under 8k and no one was making power over 8k. And solid setups can be expensive (if you're not doing the diesel shim setup) and easy to screw up. That reminds me, do you still have my shim height tool, Tommy? I don't need it; just wondering.
2 closing comments: Don't waste your money on bigger step2 cams unless you're shooting for huge power (450+). Also, don't waste your money on RAS... If you have a problem with rockers and float, a RAS is not the answer. Fix it the right way like everyone else with a float problem: springs.
I like the HKS step 1's in either 256 or 264 (or stagger). They drive great, drop right in, and make great power assuming your turbo will support it. I did HKS step 1's on both my previous motor and my brother's motor. Longfellow and Mewantkouki can tell you exactly how much ass those cars hauled on top of how great they drove. I like to install an upgraded single spring with them, even though they don't require them. That lets me bang a 7800-8000 limiter all day without issue. I would throw JWT S3 (non-M) and S4 into this conversation as well. When staying with a hydro lifter, it doesn't hurt to track down the blacktop/revised lifters with the larger inlet /smaller exit hole.
Before BC started making cams, no one had to degree anything, and everyone had the same experience. With the BC's, people were all over the place as far as power, and degreeing them was making huge power. I never cared to find out the hard way whether they were any good. Forum praise was limited to "they cheeep, dog" and "I gots camsss!"
Let me take exception to a few comments made so far....
- "stock cams are good to 350whp". Yes and no. If your exhaust side flows well, like a tubular manifold and the right T3, you can make decent power at high boost with the stock cams. I think someone went as high as 390whp on pump with stock cams and stock IM. If you're on a stock manifold and T25 flange, you're going to be stuck at 330-ish at 18psi because of the increased backpressure from the small manifold and small exhaust housing. It's that configuration that really wakes up with cams. From my experience, a 2871 car on 14psi and stock cams makes about 280-290whp. That car once we added HKS step1 264's made 340whp at 14psi on the same everything.
- Tommy's "solids or bust" comment. Solids are sweet, don't get me wrong. I did them a few times and loved them. 9000+ rpm rolling burnouts sound great! I always wanted to do the JWT S3M on solids, but never got a chance. I did the C1's on solids and HKS step3's as well. My ding against the solid setups was that hydro setups could be reliable under 8k and no one was making power over 8k. And solid setups can be expensive (if you're not doing the diesel shim setup) and easy to screw up. That reminds me, do you still have my shim height tool, Tommy? I don't need it; just wondering.
2 closing comments: Don't waste your money on bigger step2 cams unless you're shooting for huge power (450+). Also, don't waste your money on RAS... If you have a problem with rockers and float, a RAS is not the answer. Fix it the right way like everyone else with a float problem: springs.
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- Tommy's "solids or bust" comment. Solids are sweet, don't get me wrong. I did them a few times and loved them. 9000+ rpm rolling burnouts sound great! I always wanted to do the JWT S3M on solids, but never got a chance. I did the C1's on solids and HKS step3's as well. My ding against the solid setups was that hydro setups could be reliable under 8k and no one was making power over 8k. And solid setups can be expensive (if you're not doing the diesel shim setup) and easy to screw up. That reminds me, do you still have my shim height tool, Tommy? I don't need it; just wondering.
2 closing comments: Don't waste your money on bigger step2 cams unless you're shooting for huge power (450+). Also, don't waste your money on RAS... If you have a problem with rockers and float, a RAS is not the answer. Fix it the right way like everyone else with a float problem: springs.
2 closing comments: Don't waste your money on bigger step2 cams unless you're shooting for huge power (450+). Also, don't waste your money on RAS... If you have a problem with rockers and float, a RAS is not the answer. Fix it the right way like everyone else with a float problem: springs.
Yup its still sitting, safe though, was certain you knew where its at
I call solids cheap insurance from float (ability to run stiff springs), and keeps the likelyhood of hurt stuff from peoples goof-ups to a minimum.
Tomei pivots are $220~, $80 or so for the guides from them, and a junkyard run for a fistfull of shims, makes for only $300 difference, worth it to me, especially with how many collapsed lifters i've seen, as well as compared with the cost of new hyd lifters.
GTIR, S3M, tomei 260/270's or bust
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Thanks for all the helpful info guys. As far as my power goals are, im shooting for right at 300whp.
My current setup now is:
Full Greddy FMIC and Type RS
3in Trust elbow and downpipe
3in exhaust with test pipe
Walbro 255
Nismo FPR
Rebuilt Blacktop SR
and a lame T25 on 10psi
Blitz ECU
It runs awesome and is one of the fastest BPU sr's i've been in, but now i want more, and have been doing some planning.
Right now im PLANNING on ordering:
s15 t28
550cc injectors (or s15 480's)
Cams
Exhaust manifold
RS-Enthalpy tune
Whats your thoughts.... Right now this is my daily until i deploy. Its solid other than occasional oil leaks. All im lacking is ac and PS (which i only need the belt tensioner to have PS back, but thats hard to find here.) I need to keed this reliable so i don't have to worry about it falling apart when i come home on leave 750mi lol. I just want something fun, fast, and something i don't have to worry about everyday.
My current setup now is:
Full Greddy FMIC and Type RS
3in Trust elbow and downpipe
3in exhaust with test pipe
Walbro 255
Nismo FPR
Rebuilt Blacktop SR
and a lame T25 on 10psi
Blitz ECU
It runs awesome and is one of the fastest BPU sr's i've been in, but now i want more, and have been doing some planning.
Right now im PLANNING on ordering:
s15 t28
550cc injectors (or s15 480's)
Cams
Exhaust manifold
RS-Enthalpy tune
Whats your thoughts.... Right now this is my daily until i deploy. Its solid other than occasional oil leaks. All im lacking is ac and PS (which i only need the belt tensioner to have PS back, but thats hard to find here.) I need to keed this reliable so i don't have to worry about it falling apart when i come home on leave 750mi lol. I just want something fun, fast, and something i don't have to worry about everyday.
Last edited by Cliff Money; 05-04-2011 at 04:03 PM.
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I could of used some cams tonight at sunshine. Wasn't making power at 7500rpm but that was the sweet spot when going into the next gear.
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550's and a T28 is all you need to get to 300 with a SR.. cams are great, but unneeded for your power goals...
what will happen, is that 300 will seem a lot more "sluggish" as the step 1 cams (which is what 95% of people need, not 2's or 3's), will move the powerband to mid upper range...
550's
T28
FMIC
full exhaust
hello 300hp
/thread
what will happen, is that 300 will seem a lot more "sluggish" as the step 1 cams (which is what 95% of people need, not 2's or 3's), will move the powerband to mid upper range...
550's
T28
FMIC
full exhaust
hello 300hp
/thread
