loose rocker arm?
If the oil is dirty on an SR they like to do that as well, but have you bled your lifters? I would advise against solid lifters if it's a daily driven car, they are loud, annoying, they put alot more wear on your cams, and well they just plain suck. Also if you haven't installed them before I wouldn't advise installing them because shimming them sucks, I just installed some on a customers car after I advised him against them and he is already talking about putting the stock lifters back in.
Indeed, they suck so bad in fact, that nissan put them in the GTiR.
Not saying they suck by perfomance standards, the GTIR had them built into the head, a RWD sr you are adding aftermarket parts there is a difference. What I'm saying is they are noisy and a pain to install and on a car that will probably never see 300whp they are completely worthless, are gonna cost him a buncha money, and are gonna make the car sound like a POS. Shimming them sucks and from how it sounds I guarantee you there would be a post soon after this asking why his rockers are eating up his cams if he tried to install solid lifters.
Wait wait wait, you want to tell me a screw in pivot threaded into a small hole, and a solid pivot dropped into a larger hole, both shimmed the exact same way, are somehow different ?
What I'm saying is they are noisy and a pain to install and on a car that will probably never see 300whp they are completely worthless, are gonna cost him a buncha money, and are gonna make the car sound like a POS. Shimming them sucks and from how it sounds I guarantee you there would be a post soon after this asking why his rockers are eating up his cams if he tried to install solid lifters.
Weird, i seem to see all these stories from gtir owners, dispappearing rockers, and micro sized cams from their solids getting hungry and eating them
Apparently you've never installed solid lifters it would seem? If the lifters aren't shimmed correctly and tolerences are to tight then you will eat up your cams. My shop is a Tomei prodealer so we deal with probably about 1000 times more feedback and people fucking up than you do. The factory shims are something like between .10 and .20 thicker than they need to be for solid lifters, that being the case I have seen more people than I can count inproperly shim them thus the rocker eats into the cams, I have even seen cams snap and literally melt into the cam cap do to this. So giving someone advise that clearly doesn't know SR's very well advise to install solid lifters, which yes, are noisy (I'm sorry I know most s13 owners try and make their car feel as shitty as possible but I'm not one of them), are a pain to shim correctly, and are completely unnecessary is pretty dumb. I know in your little garage wanna be shop thing you think you know all, but ignorant advise is what makes people talk shit about s13 owners making their cars shittier by doing stupid things. So how many 1000 hp cars do you build a month? I've built 2 in the last month.
On a side note I've seen solid lifters throw a rocker arm out before, so no solid lifters don't guarantee that you don't throw a rocker.
On a side note I've seen solid lifters throw a rocker arm out before, so no solid lifters don't guarantee that you don't throw a rocker.
Every time I think of upgrading my head I think of sayin fuckit n doing a ve head. PITA to shim hydro lifters, I dont wanna even think about doing it with solids. Dont you have to reshim after so many break-in miles with solids?
You're a complete idiot, and show it more with each post, .10 and .20 thicker than they need to be for solid lifters ?
Yet you need a different shim, and guide for each different head, specific to the actual piece you're working on, which comes down to the valvejob on the head.
Hard to shim and people screwing it up so bad that they break cam caps you're kidding me ? Maybe if youre an idiot and try to claim things like a factory screw in pivot somehow results in something different than a drop in tomei pivot. Oh yeah please tell us more about this, while your on the subject, please enlighten us more on your "jdm frame rails are stronger than usdm" bullshit too.
I've dealt with shimming them in both rwd sr heads, and gtir factory setup, and have enough sense not to make moronic statements like you, claim whatever eleventy billion horsepower bullshit your customer brought in all you want, at the end of the day you were full of shit at the comment about the solids being somehow "different" because of drop in pivots vs. screw in pivots.
Cool, you've seen some cars where someone shouldnt have been screwing around under the hood, and screwed up with solids, sweet countless people have screwed up SR's and rodknocked them, the difference, i'm not claiming SR's are insta-rodknock, and you're an idiot claiming solids are magically going to break cam caps.
Yet you need a different shim, and guide for each different head, specific to the actual piece you're working on, which comes down to the valvejob on the head.
Hard to shim and people screwing it up so bad that they break cam caps you're kidding me ? Maybe if youre an idiot and try to claim things like a factory screw in pivot somehow results in something different than a drop in tomei pivot. Oh yeah please tell us more about this, while your on the subject, please enlighten us more on your "jdm frame rails are stronger than usdm" bullshit too.
I've dealt with shimming them in both rwd sr heads, and gtir factory setup, and have enough sense not to make moronic statements like you, claim whatever eleventy billion horsepower bullshit your customer brought in all you want, at the end of the day you were full of shit at the comment about the solids being somehow "different" because of drop in pivots vs. screw in pivots.
Cool, you've seen some cars where someone shouldnt have been screwing around under the hood, and screwed up with solids, sweet countless people have screwed up SR's and rodknocked them, the difference, i'm not claiming SR's are insta-rodknock, and you're an idiot claiming solids are magically going to break cam caps.
Apparently you've never installed solid lifters it would seem? If the lifters aren't shimmed correctly and tolerences are to tight then you will eat up your cams. My shop is a Tomei prodealer so we deal with probably about 1000 times more feedback and people fucking up than you do. The factory shims are something like between .10 and .20 thicker than they need to be for solid lifters, that being the case I have seen more people than I can count inproperly shim them thus the rocker eats into the cams, I have even seen cams snap and literally melt into the cam cap do to this. So giving someone advise that clearly doesn't know SR's very well advise to install solid lifters, which yes, are noisy (I'm sorry I know most s13 owners try and make their car feel as shitty as possible but I'm not one of them), are a pain to shim correctly, and are completely unnecessary is pretty dumb. I know in your little garage wanna be shop thing you think you know all, but ignorant advise is what makes people talk shit about s13 owners making their cars shittier by doing stupid things. So how many 1000 hp cars do you build a month? I've built 2 in the last month.
On a side note I've seen solid lifters throw a rocker arm out before, so no solid lifters don't guarantee that you don't throw a rocker.
On a side note I've seen solid lifters throw a rocker arm out before, so no solid lifters don't guarantee that you don't throw a rocker.
Oh and as a quick bit of info, to further show you dont know what you're talking about and to help those interested in properly setting up a solid valvetrain in their SR
The factory shims are available in 2.6 - 3.2mm in .02mm increments
All factory guides are "supposed" to be 3.0mm
Tomei "test" shim and guide kit for their solids comes with 2.7 and 2.8mm test sizes, which are generally supposed to be undersized to allow you to shim to the correct valve lash.
Tomei guides are available in 2.6-2.98mm in .02mm increments.
So on the shim side, there is no possible way for the factory shim to be ".10-.20" thicker than what tomei suggests, because tomei themselves list the factory shims for that side of the valvetrain, now yes its possible, and probable for the guide side to be too thick, but if you're doing a solid valvetrain setup, you're doing it right.
My bet is that you yourself screwed this up mike, because you're dumb, and now you're preaching like other people cant shim their own valvetrain, and should bring it to you because someone was dumb enough to bring their unobtanium lifter equipped, titanium valved, custom inconel manifolded, variable nozzle turbine 1350348 HP machine to you, and they should fear solid valvetrain unless genius mike gets out his micrometer and shims a simple set of valve guides and shims.
rolleyes, ferreal
The factory shims are available in 2.6 - 3.2mm in .02mm increments
All factory guides are "supposed" to be 3.0mm
Tomei "test" shim and guide kit for their solids comes with 2.7 and 2.8mm test sizes, which are generally supposed to be undersized to allow you to shim to the correct valve lash.
Tomei guides are available in 2.6-2.98mm in .02mm increments.
So on the shim side, there is no possible way for the factory shim to be ".10-.20" thicker than what tomei suggests, because tomei themselves list the factory shims for that side of the valvetrain, now yes its possible, and probable for the guide side to be too thick, but if you're doing a solid valvetrain setup, you're doing it right.
My bet is that you yourself screwed this up mike, because you're dumb, and now you're preaching like other people cant shim their own valvetrain, and should bring it to you because someone was dumb enough to bring their unobtanium lifter equipped, titanium valved, custom inconel manifolded, variable nozzle turbine 1350348 HP machine to you, and they should fear solid valvetrain unless genius mike gets out his micrometer and shims a simple set of valve guides and shims.
rolleyes, ferreal
haha hey guys, i forgot about this thread....
so the issue(s) were:
bad maf
bad fuel filter
i put in new filter and fuel pump.
car runs now. has bov leak, but thats fine. i wanna show you how insanely ghetto my current fmic kit is.
(i bought it like this, new fmic, piping, and bov coming soon)
my hot pipe looks like a plumber made it from spare parts.
CAR RUNS THO
thx fellas, and this long block is getting swapped for a different one, so this one can be rebuilt correctly. metal head gasket was installed poorly, head wasnt decked. once again i got it like this lol. im just glad to have a project
so the issue(s) were:
bad maf
bad fuel filter
i put in new filter and fuel pump.
car runs now. has bov leak, but thats fine. i wanna show you how insanely ghetto my current fmic kit is.
(i bought it like this, new fmic, piping, and bov coming soon)
my hot pipe looks like a plumber made it from spare parts.
CAR RUNS THO
thx fellas, and this long block is getting swapped for a different one, so this one can be rebuilt correctly. metal head gasket was installed poorly, head wasnt decked. once again i got it like this lol. im just glad to have a project
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