I'm going to be doing an engine build on my KA24DE in my 97 240sx. But cant make up my mind on witch Rebuild kit to start with. For those out there who have built a KA24DE id like your advice.


1. AMS KA24DE Advanced Rebuild Kit
Includes

• Arias 8.8:1 Forged Pistons
• AMS Sportsman Series Connecting Rods
• Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
• Fel-pro Full Engine Gasket Set
• Mr. Gasket Copper Exhaust Manifold Gasket
• Arp Main/Head Studs (10mm)
• Cometic Head Gasket
• All the Necessary Timing Assembly Replacement Parts

Options

• .020 Over Pistons
• Pro-Series Rods
• 11mm Headstuds (Modification Required)

2. Wiseco Pistons Brian Crower H Beam Rods COMBO KA24, KA24DE.
The Brian Crower bRod is an excellent H Beam rod that comes with ARP2000 Rod Bolts. We prefer to use BC bRods for applications in the 175hp per cylinder range.

3. CP Pistons Brian Crower H Beam Rods COMBO Nissan KA24, KA24DE.
This is a brand new set of CP Pistons and Brian Crower H Beam Rods for Nissan KA24DE 2.4L Engines. Their standard offering already includes Dual Pin Oilers - providing double the amount of oil to the wrist pin, radiused valve reliefs, and the pin fitting final hone on the wrist pin bore. They even include an Accumulator Groove as a standard option. This provides a small pocket for the combustion gasses to collect after the first ring, reducing ring flutter and providing a better seal allowing more downward force on the piston A.K.A. - make more power. All pistons come balanced within one gram, include pin lock grooves and wrist pins at no additional charge. The Brian Crower bRod is an excellent H Beam rod that comes with ARP2000 Rod Bolts. We prefer to use BC bRods for applications in the 175hp per cylinder range. KA24DE Pistons

Part # Application Bore Size Compression Ratio SC7299 KA24DE w/ Turbo 89.00mm (Standard Bore) 9.0:1 SC7300 KA24DE w/ Turbo 89.50mm (+.020" Overbore) 9.0:1

 

Unless you're going for more than 400whp. Do a stock rebuild and call it a day.

If you insist on wasting money:

cp 9:0:1 pistons in .20 over or stock bore
Eagle or Manley connecting rods
oem nissan bearings
new oil pump
arp main studs
arp head studs
oem gasket set
new timing chain kit

You can use a cometic head gasket, but if your deck surface isn't perfect you'll have problems with it sealing.

My personal "all out" out ka-t build.

cp 9:5:1 stock bore
carrillo pro A connecting rods
Oem bearings
new oil pump
oem gasket set
arp main studs
arp 10mm head studs
full supertech valve train
kelford 272's
z32 tranny / mazworx adapter plate

 

thanks, i appreceate the addvice.

I would like to turbo it and see a # around 400-450 hp, but i have a tight budget and want to get as much hp out of the motor before turboing it. I want to do this car right.

 

Abandon your na power goals, they are worthless. If you're only looking for 400-450hp do an oem rebuild with arp hardware.
Cp pistons and eagle connecting rods are a little extra insurance. (I don't think they are necessary with a good tune)

 

Something isn't adding up here...

 

Hmmm the tight budget part?.. Turbo builds don't usually work out well on a tight budget from what I've seen...

 

i know the only way ill see those numbers is by turboing it. but before i do that i want to build a solid motor. then and only then will i turbo it.

 

building a solid engine and boosting it is a totally different path than building a powerful NA engine.

A stock rebuild engine will be plenty strong. Do a good job rebuilding it and you'll have a pretty stout engine.
The thing is, you have a crap load of miles and abuse on your engine now, that's why you don't want to boost it as is. It isn't that the stock parts aren't capable of making that much power or anything. You just don't want worn out seals, and rings, and bearings trying to handle that kind of pressure.
See what I'm sayin?

My suggestion, if money is the issue.
Get yourself a spare engine.
Doesn't have to even be a running engine, you really only need the long block. Well, technically, just the short block.
Tear it apart and build that. That way, you can take 6 months to build it and still have your car.
Order the parts and/or kit that you want. (listen to mewantkouki, he's been there and done that)
Find a machine shop that you want to do business with.
You can technically assemble the rotating assembly yourself, but you'll want the shop to bore the cylinders to the pistons and by the time you buy all of the tools you are going to need, you might as well pay the shop to do all of it.
get the block bored and honed to match the pistons (assuming you are overboring. Not needed for your power goals, but its an option)
get it hot tanked. get it planed
get the rotating assembly assembled, balanced, and installed.
That way, when you get it back, you'll have a fresh block with the crank, rods and pistons in and ready to go.
Meanwhile, get the head done.
Might be able to save a couple bucks on labor taking it apart yourself. Tools are decently cheap at harborfreight.
Might as well get it hot tanked, planned, hell, go all the way and get a 3 angle valve job. Port and polish isn't really needed with these heads. Might free up a couple horse power, but I would say save the 60-100 bucks and put it towards a better manifold.
Gonna need new valve seals. you can get the springs and valves and all that fun for cheap enough, might as well get new. You could technically install all of that yourself, but you don't want to run the risk of scratching the freshly planned surface. Personally, I don't think the savings is worth the stress of screwing it up. And if you do screw it up, it'll cost even more to get it fixed than if you just paid for it in the first place.
Now, assemble it all. I'd use ARP headstuds. and all that fun jazz.
Once it is all assembled, you can either swap over everything off your engine, or buy all of the accessories and whatnot that you need.
Personally, I would look to things like the the older Quest alternator and get that in there. I'd get another manifold, get the emissions off of it. get new lines and all of that. install your bigger injectors. Maybe paint the manifold black of something cool like that. Might even consider getting it planed so it seals awesomely to the head. While the engine is out, I would get my hands on another engine harness and do a tuck to keep it all clean.
I could go on for another page about what I would do from here, but its your build.

 

WoW that's a lot of typing.
Hey thanks for the advice. Im really going to take all of that into consideration. I didnt expect the people on a forum like this to be this helpfull. I might just find another engine with a lot less mileage and do it that way.

 

Stock bottom end ka-t = more fun than a barrel of monkeys

Built motors are overrated and 10X more expensive when they break.