so what do you guys think. being a tooth off would that make it has 0 compression at all? also being a tooth off what are the chances for bent valves?

 

no, you can still get it to run being a tooth off. I drove a car that was off just like you. It was a pain to start, and wouldn't idle for crap, put it pulled pretty hard once you got it over 3 ish grand.
No bent valves or anything like that.

As for the 0 compression, that had to be an error with the tool itself. Maybe it didn't seal or something like that. Even if the piston rings are totally fried, you'll still get some kind of bump on the compression meter as the piston comes up. You're moving a lot of air even if it isn't sealing enough to compress.
AND, more on that, it wouldn't be 0 on all cylinders. That just didn't happen.
The only way it would be totally screwed like that, is if you forgot to put the pistons in when you rebuilt the engine.


When you try to start it, what does it do? be detailed.

tear into it and fix the timing. and try to start it and see what happens.
Its gotta be something simple like that keeping it from running.

 

ok detailed. i go to turn the key get to "ON" pump primes...turn the ignition turns over actually goes "Bump Bump Bump" < say that out loud you might understand< i took the exhaust off i can see gas being expelled from each cylinder. also found something new. its leaking a type of water from cyl. 3 back it looks like hmmm. "AHHH SKEET SKEET SKEET SKEET" lol but seriously does. it started that when i filled the radiator up because it was a little low. but it just leaks down the side of the block utill the radiator goes back to the level it was. so now could a bad head gasket cause 0 compression i found a new swap ka24de motor, trans, harness, maf, ecu for 200. still in the car and running and compression test so i might just pull this and built it?

 

yeah, that milky lookin stuff sounds like water/coolant mixing with oil.

but if the headgasket was blown, it wouldn't be on all 4 cylinders.

that bump sound is compression.

so there is probably something wrong with your compression tester.

if you're getting fuel and it still won't start, then I'm thinking you're not getting spark. and/or if you are getting spark, then it isn't the right time.

You fix your timing yet?

with as minimal as it sounds that the headgasket is, it should still start. Fix the timing and see what happens.

Personally, I say you can never have too many spare parts and if that engine is good, then buy it. Swap it into your car.
Pull your dead engine and tear it apart and build that one. That way you have a running, working car, and a spare engine to get ready for when the good one dies.
200 bucks is a pretty good deal for a complete running engine.

 

yea i have spark and fuel both getting to the cylinder. i think ill just do that im just gonna swap the head/block. i think it will only take us a few hours i can prolly leave the wiring and intake in the engine bay just off to the side do i have to pull the tranny to swap the engine? so just push the intake off to the side with the wiring attached and just pull the block and head kinda straight forward.

 

The transmission is attached to the engine...

 

what i meant by the above quoted statement was do i have to pull the engine/trans together or can i disconnect the trans from the engine and just pull the block/head without pulling the trans with it.

 

you're makin it harder than it needs to be.
un plug the harness from the ECU and feed that into the engine bay. You can leave the harness on the engine.

Same thing with the new engine. You said it was still in the car and running, so un plug as little as possible to get the engine out of the car.
The intake manifold doesn't have to come off.


this is a write up on how to go from SOHC to DOHC, but you can still apply most of it to pulling your engine out and putting in a new one.
KA24e to KA24de swap - Step-by-step. : 240sx Articles

 

yes, you can unbolt the bellhousing from the block and pull just the engine, but a large majority of people will argue that it is easier to just pull it out all at once. Trying to get the input shaft lined up with the output on the crank can be a majorly difficult thing to do, especially if you aren't very experienced.
It is much easier to just unbolt the driveshaft, drain the fluid/gear lube, and pull it out all together.
Then unbolt the tranny when it is on the ground, swap the clutches if you need/want. then bolt the tranny back to the new engine and drop the whole thing in.

 

what do you think it would take me and 2 friends to just swap the engine. we have pretty much endless tools and an overhead crane that rolls across the ceiling air tools and a business account at all tool and auto part stores