questions for my build
That and the s14 exhaust is about 6 inches longer...which means cutting the flang off so it doesnt look like a$$ hang out the back of your s13.
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If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
A good t25 kit(t28 maybe) can be pieced together for less than $1500. Last time i priced one out, it came out to around $1250 with tuning and that was for a t28 kit. On ka-t.org, ppl have said they've done it for less than $1k. Just gotta take your time and source out good deals on parts.
Since he's new, i say he should just start out low, then work his way up as he learns. Suspension and lsd will help you control your car a good bit.
Btw, im assuming the OP wants to autocross with this "racecar"? Isnt there stuff you dont want to do, so that you can stay in the lower classes? Remember hearing that upgrading brakes can jump you up to the higher classes. Dont really know much about autocrossing lol.
Since he's new, i say he should just start out low, then work his way up as he learns. Suspension and lsd will help you control your car a good bit.
Btw, im assuming the OP wants to autocross with this "racecar"? Isnt there stuff you dont want to do, so that you can stay in the lower classes? Remember hearing that upgrading brakes can jump you up to the higher classes. Dont really know much about autocrossing lol.
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my 2 cents on how to start building a 240.
-decide what your goals are so you can make decisions as you go and not have to end up spending twice the money to redo things later
- clean. everything. pull the interior apart. get the carpet up in the air. get everything all clean. get under the car. get the engine bay. get all of that greasy, grimy, build up crap out of there. it makes working on the car so much more enjoyable.
- fix the broken crap. I personally would start in the engine bay as that effects driving and gas mileage and all of that the most. get new belts. new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, etc. get your busted A/C fixed. get that leaking power steering fixed. (even if it means sourcing a new rack, getting it rebuilt and swapping that out, which IMO is the best way to go anyway)
- while fixing crap, go through and undo all of the jimmy rigged crap the previous owners and hack job mechanics did. You don't want to fight problems by their hack jobs when you are trying to fix something down the road.
- now that the engine is running solid, work your way back. the tranny is gonna take some abuse if you're gonna be racin' on it. my suggestion, get another tranny, take it to a shop and have them tear it down and freshen it up. synchos or whatever it needs. When it comes time to install the fresh tranny, this would be the best time to upgrade your clutch and flywheel. Don't be dumb and get some unsprung monster of a clutch. you're not going to end up with that much power to warrant it, and you're gonna drive the car everyday. it isn't worth the punishment. I suggest a lightweight flywheel. I don't notice a major downside when it comes to daily driving, especially if you have a reasonable clutch set up. while you're got the gear lube out, you might as well change the luge in your diff too. Some say if it is old, then changing it will make a huge improvement, while others say the old gunky crap is what is holding it together. so its your call there.
- fix and upgrade your suspension. i suggest starting in the front and working your way back. other people say you should do it the other way around if you're doing upgrades. I don't think it makes a big difference on a street car. replace your tie rods and tie rod ends. Even if they aren't totally bad, if you're gonna be racing on it, then you might as well. this is a case of beefier is better. I like the ones Tein makes. try to find a good deal on those. then start working on bushings. I suggest making everything polyuerathane. I don't see any point in trying to do all of the work to replace them and just putting rubber back in there. rubber isn't awesome. don't use it, unless you don't want to be awesome. while you're taking things apart for bushings, it would be the best time to upgrade springs and struts. For a street car, I don't see the need for anything beyond springs and struts. a good spring/strut combo can out perform many coil over options. The only reason I could see needing coilovers on a street car is if you A) enjoy a shitty ride and/or B) want to scrape your nuts on the ground.
-Here's one of those decion things I mentioned earlier. If you're gonna do crazy rims and tires, then you'll want adjustable control arms and such to get proper alignment. But typically, if you're just going to stay within wheel/tire sizes that fit easily, then you can get away with stock arms. If you are wanting the absolute best grip possible, then you want the adjustables too, but stock is more than sufficent for a street car.
Speaking of wheels. you'll more than likely want options when it comes to wheels. the stock 4 lug doesn't allow for a huge variety of options. so you'll probably want to swap to a 5 lug set up. Most common is taking 300zx parts. There are conversion kits on line. This would be the time to do it, as you've got your suspesion all apart and all of that jazz. Don't want to bolt it up, just to turn around to unbolt it to bolt it right back up.
So now everything is freshened up, and riding good and all of that. I would start adding power to the mix. This is where your budget, and goals and all of that really come to play. You can make a decent N/A build using bolt ons. You can tear into the engine and high compression build and run nitrous. You can do a low boost build. You can tear it apart and build an awe inspiring high boost build. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish with it. If you're just lookin for a daily driver with a little zest to it, then simple bolt ons would be the way to go. get on google and search around for some NA 240sx builds and see what you find. There is a lot of decent info out there. A lot of it is non-engine specific too. What makes a good header and exhaust set up is universal, you just have to get that knowledge and apply it to the 240. My suggestion is to not skimp out on parts. Sure, you can get an exhaust on that thing for a couple hundred bucks and it will open it up more, but you could spend a little more and get a little better result. Things like heat wrap. often over looked because of the price, can make a difference. lowers under hood temps and keeps more heat in the exhaust, which, in turn, makes the exhaust gasses flow faster increasing the effectiveness of a proper exhaust. technically you could wrap from the header flange to the muffler. There is a whole world of options. This is what sets one build off from another. There really is no right answer when it comes to this part of the build. There are wrong answers, but even those you need to figure out on your own by gaining knowledge and understanding of how an engine makes power.
ok, so maybe that turned into a little more than two cents... and it is probably a lot of rambling. its just been one of those days at work and i needed the distraction. hope you get something out of it.
-decide what your goals are so you can make decisions as you go and not have to end up spending twice the money to redo things later
- clean. everything. pull the interior apart. get the carpet up in the air. get everything all clean. get under the car. get the engine bay. get all of that greasy, grimy, build up crap out of there. it makes working on the car so much more enjoyable.
- fix the broken crap. I personally would start in the engine bay as that effects driving and gas mileage and all of that the most. get new belts. new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, etc. get your busted A/C fixed. get that leaking power steering fixed. (even if it means sourcing a new rack, getting it rebuilt and swapping that out, which IMO is the best way to go anyway)
- while fixing crap, go through and undo all of the jimmy rigged crap the previous owners and hack job mechanics did. You don't want to fight problems by their hack jobs when you are trying to fix something down the road.
- now that the engine is running solid, work your way back. the tranny is gonna take some abuse if you're gonna be racin' on it. my suggestion, get another tranny, take it to a shop and have them tear it down and freshen it up. synchos or whatever it needs. When it comes time to install the fresh tranny, this would be the best time to upgrade your clutch and flywheel. Don't be dumb and get some unsprung monster of a clutch. you're not going to end up with that much power to warrant it, and you're gonna drive the car everyday. it isn't worth the punishment. I suggest a lightweight flywheel. I don't notice a major downside when it comes to daily driving, especially if you have a reasonable clutch set up. while you're got the gear lube out, you might as well change the luge in your diff too. Some say if it is old, then changing it will make a huge improvement, while others say the old gunky crap is what is holding it together. so its your call there.
- fix and upgrade your suspension. i suggest starting in the front and working your way back. other people say you should do it the other way around if you're doing upgrades. I don't think it makes a big difference on a street car. replace your tie rods and tie rod ends. Even if they aren't totally bad, if you're gonna be racing on it, then you might as well. this is a case of beefier is better. I like the ones Tein makes. try to find a good deal on those. then start working on bushings. I suggest making everything polyuerathane. I don't see any point in trying to do all of the work to replace them and just putting rubber back in there. rubber isn't awesome. don't use it, unless you don't want to be awesome. while you're taking things apart for bushings, it would be the best time to upgrade springs and struts. For a street car, I don't see the need for anything beyond springs and struts. a good spring/strut combo can out perform many coil over options. The only reason I could see needing coilovers on a street car is if you A) enjoy a shitty ride and/or B) want to scrape your nuts on the ground.
-Here's one of those decion things I mentioned earlier. If you're gonna do crazy rims and tires, then you'll want adjustable control arms and such to get proper alignment. But typically, if you're just going to stay within wheel/tire sizes that fit easily, then you can get away with stock arms. If you are wanting the absolute best grip possible, then you want the adjustables too, but stock is more than sufficent for a street car.
Speaking of wheels. you'll more than likely want options when it comes to wheels. the stock 4 lug doesn't allow for a huge variety of options. so you'll probably want to swap to a 5 lug set up. Most common is taking 300zx parts. There are conversion kits on line. This would be the time to do it, as you've got your suspesion all apart and all of that jazz. Don't want to bolt it up, just to turn around to unbolt it to bolt it right back up.
So now everything is freshened up, and riding good and all of that. I would start adding power to the mix. This is where your budget, and goals and all of that really come to play. You can make a decent N/A build using bolt ons. You can tear into the engine and high compression build and run nitrous. You can do a low boost build. You can tear it apart and build an awe inspiring high boost build. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish with it. If you're just lookin for a daily driver with a little zest to it, then simple bolt ons would be the way to go. get on google and search around for some NA 240sx builds and see what you find. There is a lot of decent info out there. A lot of it is non-engine specific too. What makes a good header and exhaust set up is universal, you just have to get that knowledge and apply it to the 240. My suggestion is to not skimp out on parts. Sure, you can get an exhaust on that thing for a couple hundred bucks and it will open it up more, but you could spend a little more and get a little better result. Things like heat wrap. often over looked because of the price, can make a difference. lowers under hood temps and keeps more heat in the exhaust, which, in turn, makes the exhaust gasses flow faster increasing the effectiveness of a proper exhaust. technically you could wrap from the header flange to the muffler. There is a whole world of options. This is what sets one build off from another. There really is no right answer when it comes to this part of the build. There are wrong answers, but even those you need to figure out on your own by gaining knowledge and understanding of how an engine makes power.
ok, so maybe that turned into a little more than two cents... and it is probably a lot of rambling. its just been one of those days at work and i needed the distraction. hope you get something out of it.
it doesnt matter what engine you have in the car you need a s13 catback.
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if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.

if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.
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rep'ed empire. thank-you for all of that advise. im completely NEW at this so i hope i can make it through the build ahead and i greatly thanks everyone for every input.
this is gonna be one hellava journey
this is gonna be one hellava journey
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